www.imoc.co.uk

I'd wager that's the fact that the wheels weren't silly offsets and massively too wide without spigot rings!

I have your exact setup (Enkei RP-02, ET35/ET38) with 205/225 wheels and the handling is just how I like it. Rarely ever any understeer which I did get with standard wheels.

Stick with the 20mm stagger. Kills a lot of the understeer you get with such a light front end.

No they are not. Rev1/2 uses the Gen2 3SGE, Rev3+ uses Gen3 3SGE.

I'm not actually sure if you can swop manifolds over generation to generation, but I do know rev1/2 uses 4-2 manifold with a 2-1 midpipe, some rev3's use 4-2-1 others 4-1 manifold.

sterlingadvice wrote:Who buys a 2 for MPG!!

I would in a heartbeat...23,000 miles this year!

If there is rust appearing on the rear arch chances are it goes allll the way to the corner of the boot and the arch itself. Get the bumper off and have a look.

It's not IN the water pump, but it is on the water pump outlet.

I was going to say just use a 19mm socket...but twin plates would be a ballache! What about getting your hands on a old gearbox's input shaft? Would do the same job...
[edit] ah, nice edit there about the input shaft

You can buy replacement sliders from Camskill that come with bolts. I did this recently after buying and fitting brand new (refurbed) calipers and still getting a clunk from the right front when braking while reversing. Just to put you at ease that the threads the bolts go in is ok. Interestingly I ...

Check your coolant level before driving again.

Just buy some drop links and angle grind em off if there's no history of them being replaced. Trust me, you will save time and swearing!

'I cant be bothered, I'll fix it soon?'

Do you like driving your car because it will soon be very broken with 21PSI boost. I would be removing it and plumbing the TVSV back in until you fixed your wastegate...

iv got a 99 t reg turbo which is pretty mint and very rare and the gf took it to get some new tyres on the back . £330 for the pair . then I get a phone call from her saying that they took it for a test drive as they always do after fitting new tyres. some nobhead fitter got about 50 yards before c...

It's not clearing because the ABS ECU is throwing it's own code, probably due to a wheel speed sensor being dead.

You need to read the ABS ECU fault codes, not the Engine ECU.

There's a plug in the frunk you need to disconnect in order to get the ABS ECU to give up it's fault code.

Obviously was!

Very interested, if the release bearing will do a 300 mile trip anyway!

I ordered one from Nengun on the 10th. Cost me £57 with shipping. Only just been shipped today. Still at least it will be genuine!

When was "used to be able to pay a fiver?" Data protection act has been in place since 1984! Someone's been watching Gone in 60 Seconds! Lol. Now I think of it I used to be able to get copies of brand new merecedes keys for a fiver at the same place :whistle: :roll: lol Only drawback is t...

RedMR² wrote:When was "used to be able to pay a fiver?"

Data protection act has been in place since 1984!

Someone's been watching Gone in 60 Seconds!

RedMR² wrote:When was "used to be able to pay a fiver?"

Data protection act has been in place since 1984!

Someone's been watching Gone in 60 Seconds!

Cold idle fluctuating may be related to your coolant level. When I bought my last rev3 it was doing this:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_diJSRmDV5U Topped up the coolant level and it stopped fluctuating. Few weeks later it did it again; turned out to be a pinhole in the rad only leaking when hot....