Do You Heel and Toe

[Leon.]

Well.. yes.. my fragile male ego couldn't take it



Plus I wouldn't want to leave a stain..

Adrenalin is brown, you know..

I'm not even gona comment on the stain..... I was thinking of the other.....

[aaronjb]

Pah, so wude!

Oops.. so very off topic, too..

[Leon.]

Pah, so wude!

Oops.. so very off topic, too..

Aye

[ENSMR2]

I learnt Left foor braking in my Astra. It is great for FWD cars. Helps get over understeer.

I use it well in the clio round a great road betwwen brentwood and waltham abbey. Really twisty road, on the onset of understeer I use my left foot to tap the brakes and get it back on line.

[jont]

And here you can see a master of the art and watch his footwork =D>

What was jonb saying about driving gods?

[jonb-]

And here you can see a master of the art and watch his footwork =D>

What was jonb saying about driving gods?

he gets god status

[Frustrated Pilot]

do it all the time... for about 6 -7 years now

[GeoffC320]

do it all the time... for about 6 -7 years now

Now for the left foot braking...that's how I beat you on the Ferrari arcade game the other week mate.

[ENSMR2]

And here you can see a master of the art and watch his footwork =D>

What was jonb saying about driving gods?

It's like he was dancing on the pedals =D>

[RichardPON]

Left foot braking?

On the road?

For a start, rally cars usually have a rear bias in gravel spec, and they also generally don't tend to be servo'd.

The purpose of left foot braking in a rally car is entirely different in a rally car than using it in the situations described on here.... and personally, I can't see the need for it on the road in the slightest.

[shibby!]

I have been doing this since the begining of this post,

So thats about a week now?

Anyway, i found it reletively easy, Pedals are in a perfect set-up for me.

I basically worked up, so now im doing it at almost every corner or roundabout, and it is noticably quicker. It is much smoother!!

Although i have cocked it up once or twice!

Practice makes perfect!!

Nick

[AM TUNING]

ive not much tried it , but have been playing around with it for a while ,,

ive been driven around the ring in a tubby by roger hole , he is very good at it and made me realize what a tubby was capable off ,, up to that point i thought i has found the limits of my car,,

[jimi]

Could some one explain to me how using this technique can possibly be kinder to your clutch than using the normal gear change method ?
The most wear on a clutch is bound to occur when its partially engaged/dis-engaged (ie slipping ) using this technique the clutch is going to spend more time slipping than normal = more wear not less, or am I missing something

[jonb-]

Could some one explain to me how using this technique can possibly be kinder to your clutch than using the normal gear change method ?
The most wear on a clutch is bound to occur when its partially engaged/dis-engaged (ie slipping ) using this technique the clutch is going to spend more time slipping than normal = more wear not less, or am I missing something

You've missed something.

By blipping the throttle on the DOWN change you MATCH the engine rpm to the gearbox rpm and the clutch doesn't have to slip at all.

[jimi]

So your not using the clutch at all ? Because if your depressing the clutch then at some stage it has to be slipping (wearing).

[jonb-]

So your not using the clutch at all ? Because if your depressing the clutch then at some stage it has to be slipping (wearing).

Lets walk through a normal downchange.

- Car at 30mph in 4th at 1500rpm
- Driver changes down to second. No wear as he PRESSES the clutch as it's jsut disengaging.
- As the driver selects second and engages the clutch the clutch needs to match the engine speed and gearbox speed, to do this it both raises the engine rpm by spinning up the engine off the gearbox AND slightly slows the car as the effort it's putting into spinning up the engine acts as a brake for the wheels. This is where the WEAR occours

If you heel toe, on the 3rd step above the engine speed and gearbox speed are already matched as you've blipped the throttle so the clutch just has to engage, not match 2 shafts rpms. Hence less wear.

[jimi]

There's still wear as you press the clutch down, maybe not as much as when you release it, but still wear. Any time you reduce the friction between the pressure plate. friction plate and flywheel then until the clutch is fully disengaged ( or fully engaged) there is bound to be wear occurring.
I understand how heel and toe works and I know the reasons for using the technique ( I've even used it myself). I just don't believe its easier on the clutch than a normal gear change ( if done smoothly).
IMHO

[jonb-]

You can only do a 'smooth' down change by heel and toeing.

[Lauren]

So how should it "feel" then when done correctly?? Like I said before? No lurch forwards or sudden slowing etc?

I really need for it to be described so I know what I am "feeling" for.

A bit too much is better than not enough. Obviously its because its easier to slow an engine down than it is to speed it up IYSWIM. Also because you are doing it when breaking the car will not lurch forwards because you are on the brakes right?

A bit too much really doesn't matter, though with practice you can get it spot on most of the time.

[jonb-]

A bit too much really doesn't matter, though with practice you can get it spot on most of the time.

Tell that to the car i nearly re-ended many moons ago when playing in the MG. If you get it above a "bit" too much and you're not fully committed on the brakes you can have quite a lurch.