[Mk2] [Turbo] Getting v P!55ED off!!!!

[Razor04]

are you checking the coolant level before every journey?
you can think its full but if you dont check before you set off each time if its leaked out somewhere of a period of a few days the level could get too low then youll overheat.
just a thought.

you had a sniff test done for HG?
also has been known to be cracked block this is usually on rev3's the HG tends to hold up being steel, but the block can crack, thinner wall thickness.

Phone 3S 01252845645 and run you problem by them they'll be able to give you an idea

[Razor04]

You checked out the radiator? might have a small dripping leak on there somewhere, stone damage etc just another thought.

[crazygary]

It might be a good idea to bleed the system again Dan. You couldn't trust the work of the original garage so why should you trust the work of the garage that replaced your waterpump/belt etc...

If you want a good job doing... do it yourself! (or a respected mr2 specialist )

HTH

[Dan88]

Mark - yes ive been checking the level of coolant before i set out each time. Havent had a sniffer test done recently, il get that sorted next week (in a way i hope it is the HG so at least it will be sorted when its done!)

Havent spotted any leaks yet, but my friend who works in a garage is bringing home a coolant system pressure system tomorrow so going to connect this up, pressurise the system and see if there are any leaks

Gary - i had a good bleeding session today, went out for a blast in it and temp guage held fine. although when i parked up in the drive, although the temp guage read normal, i could hear bubbling water from the engine bay and in the pipes

[crazygary]

I'm sure the bubbling is pretty normal... someone will correct me if i'm way off but i would say it's the coolant cap de-pressurising the system??

[RyanRs]

if you run it up to temp, then switch off the engine and (with the aid of a thick glove) grab the coolant hose that connects from the water pump to the body (big one next to the AC pump / downpipe) Give it a few good squeezes and listen for Air moving in the pipes and/or leaking water p1$$ing out.

I would think it possible that you are getting an persistent air lock in the heaters. did you watch how they bled the system? did they have 2 clear pipes connected up in the frunk?

[Razor04]

I'm sure the bubbling is pretty normal... someone will correct me if i'm way off but i would say it's the coolant cap de-pressurising the system??

I'd say the same and this was the root of my similar problems, but i think Dan88 has had 3 different caps on there.

[Dan88]

I will get another cap just to be sure, as it has been off the road for a month while id been saving up for water pump cambelt and insurance.

Yeh when i bled it my self i had 2 pipes out the front, one off the top of the rad, and one of the heater matrix bleed point, fixed them up high, opended up and bled it until the coolant level in both pipes are level with the filler cap at the back.

Everytime i squeeze the pipe near the down pipe i can feel water in there

[Dan88]

just had the pressure tester on the system, and its not leaking water anywhere. We also checked the radiator over and its in good condition, both the fans come in and out fine.

Had a look for all the possible headgasket symptoms, and my car has none of them, it runs sweet, so we would be very surprised if it was that.

Im going to get another rad cap and run it with this on there and see if i get any improvements, if not then it will have to be a trip to pacific works!!

Also, someone mentioned about the bleed valve on the top of the rad, where can you get replacement ones of these? best that i do all the little things first, just to rule them out at least

[Razor04]

Get your rad cap direct from toyota they're about £15 and also check the fillerneck it screws into sometimes these can go out of shape so you wont get a seal.

take off the hose that runs from rad cap to expansion tank and clean it out, run water through it. Also ditch the plastic filter on the end of the hose that sits in the expansion tank these can get blocked up with silt easily.

[Dan88]

Also, someone mentioned about the bleed valve on the top of the rad, where can you get replacement ones of these? best that i do all the little things first, just to rule them out at least

anyone know about these?

[3sgte]

Classic rev1/2 head lift syndrome
Under boost the head lifts a tiny amount enough to let some pressurised air from the cylinders into the coolant passages this blows some coolant out of the rad cap and leaves you with air in the system .

conventional sniffer and coolant pressurising tests will not show it up as you cannot get any boost whilst not driving

I think i mentioned to you when we changed the stat maybe trying to swap the headbolts for arp studs one at a time to try and reclamp the head down a bit tighter but in all honesty i would be looking at getting the head off skimmed and put back on , preferably with a steel gasket

[Dan88]

definatly going to try that next as i had more problems last night as follows:

New rad cap on, system pressuries lovely now with hard pipes after a drive, different to before. Went up the road about 5 miles into the journey and the temp guage shot up to the max and then went back down to normal after about 10 seconds, even though the engine wasnt overheating.

Kept doing this all the way along my 20 mile drive to Ipswich, temp guage soaring to max and then settling to normal again. It seemed to settle when i put my foot on the throttle a bit harder

For this reason i am thinking its a sender of some sort so going to replace the water temperature sender to try and cure this firstly.

Becasue of the worry of the above i drove the car reasonably gently all night. Then i gave it a little more right foot and it over heated (linking very well to what you just said 3SGTE)