Moderators: IMOC Moderators, IMOC Committee Members
so hypothetically when i've got the money, what increases have people got over the stock 124b.h.p..30..40 odd horses might be nice! Might as well get an engine conversion. Mine made 121bhp with a leaky janspeed and k&n.bobbyh wrote:o.k.
if you do the whole breathing/exhaust/high-lift cam/magnecor leads etc,
what would that take us up too?
loving the little car so far, but can see a day when another 20.
.. Not really worth the money or effort IMHO.£200 with the big pulley kit mod. Trust me... this is plenty fast enough then. 
'boxes?bobbyh wrote:aren't the superchargers all auto
and they are rare as anyway.
bobbyh wrote:it's a 89 mk1b, that'll be the other type of engine!?
I think you are confused. 122bhp std, that link is realistic. tuning the 4A-GE past 220bhp is impractical on a road car, tuning it past 160bhp is incredibly wasteful financially(ideally, you can probably get away without it but youll have to go bigger on cams to compensate and youll lose power at lower revs), a solid engine to start with (if its got ANY problems then youll lose power and have reliability issues later), a piggyback ECU, slightly larger exhaust, and probably a few other small changes to accomodate the extra power. that lot would stand you in at somewhere around the £1000-1800 mark, depending on how much stuff you source 2nd hand pricing is then widely varied depending on whether you do the work yourself. if you do the work yourself then £3500-6000 depending on the parts used£6000-8000 engine build!!! however professionally you could get to 220-230bhp without needing to upgrade many other parts, youd just need it rebuilt a bit more often the options then are...(160-165bhp, throttle bodies as standard so it sounds pretty awesome, and a fairly easy swap, it bolts straight in, just some wiring to do and youre away!)(supercharged, but similar characteristics to an NA engine, fits straight in, again just wiring)(normally aspirated and 200bhp is very possible, needs engine mounts welding in, wiring, and a fair few other modifications)(upto 240bhp straight out of the box, and 300bhp isnt too tricky, similar to 3S-GE in terms of fitting it)(190bhp normally aspirated as standard, VVTi so its got torque as well, and can be tuned to 220bhp or so without massive effort. physically fits in more easily than the 3S engines, but the wiring and plumbing is the really difficult part) budget and imagination are the only limiting factors. what would you pay for a 2nd hand lump?bobbyh wrote:
think i need to do more homework on engine codes.
the mk1a and mk1b had different engine codes? AW11?
= Engine Family (A series engine, 4 cylinder, petrol )= platform code (MR2)(the original MK1 was a AW10 [JDM only], the next variation is ours (AW11) & 1b aren't official Toyota designations, 1b's are just a facelift variation.= Engine family (A series)= Twin cam (DOHC) sports type head (wide angle, 45 degrees or more between the intake and exhaust valves)= Electronic Fuel Injection CLICKYbobbyh wrote:thanks for the detailed replies.
but i think the 20v route sounds simplest for me.
ta
In my opinion if your sticking na, the engine thats the most beneficial would be the 3vz-fe (3.0 ltr v6) 
£500 or less and gearbox's can be had for £50..(prev car) had a coil-pack instead of a dizzy. im technically minded, but not a mechanic...bobbyh wrote:cheers again, but im still a little confused.
mine has a distributor, so the E-for electronic fuel injection, must ONLY refer to the fuel delivery side, and not the spark/ignition?
the VR6
cheers.
(Electronic Fuel Injection), ESA ( Electronic Spark Advance) and Diagnosis systems are all controlled the ECU. [edit] Mechanical vs Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)-how the correct amount of fuel for any given situation is determined and delivered- is not achieved electronically but rather through mechanical means alone. All the components in both 'mechanical' or Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) systems that deliver the fuel in to the engine -the pumps, plumbing, valves, injectors- are mechanical in operation. The difference being that in EFI systems the injectors are switched on and off electronically by the EFI control electronics. This ability to control the injectors electronically allows far more variation in when and how the fuel is injected.bobbyh wrote:with regard to the BarronMR,
i wouldn't want to go down the V6 route, cos by addeing significantly greater mass, you would compromise the balance which is why i love the car.
And you can always go for the lighter alloy 1mz v6, but it will cost a little more.bobbyh wrote:cheers again, but im still a little confused.
mine has a distributor, so the E-for electronic fuel injection, must ONLY refer to the fuel delivery side, and not the spark/ignition?
the VR6
cheers.
The article is quite old and needs editing/updating but it gives a pretty good idea of how it functions. In fact I prefer the way my V6 handles to my stripped out standard car.