[Mk2] [Turbo] Where can i buy a power steering pump from?

[tiff_lee]

It's ok mate no need for documenting it i'm just a bit sceptical as to what they're 'repairing', i've had 2 of these apart with no signs of wear.

The factory? mate these things are twenty years old I doubt you can get new motors now and even then it would be a waste of money it's just a DC motor. Connect 12V does it run? yes then it's fine.

You can swap the top parts over if you're happy to take the motor apart but then is there actually anything wrong with your old one?

If you have plugged in another motor with a different wiring configuration in the plug and you DIDNT get a fault code then something is wrong with the control system. Using two different motors you should of definitely of had the power steering light on at some point.

Like I said before, unplug the motor jerry rig 12V so motor runs and go for a drive, if it works ok the problem is control system. Little point constantly swapping pumps/motors without carrying out that easy check.

[raptor95GTS]

doesn't the power steering pump run on a Pulse Width Modulation - ie it's a square wave format not a straight 12v?

[tiff_lee]

yeah that's right

[monstr2]

DEL.

[monstr2]

It's ok mate no need for documenting it i'm just a bit sceptical as to what they're 'repairing', i've had 2 of these apart with no signs of wear.

The factory? mate these things are twenty years old I doubt you can get new motors now and even then it would be a waste of money it's just a DC motor. Connect 12V does it run? yes then it's fine.

You can swap the top parts over if you're happy to take the motor apart but then is there actually anything wrong with your old one?

If you have plugged in another motor with a different wiring configuration in the plug and you DIDNT get a fault code then something is wrong with the control system. Using two different motors you should of definitely of had the power steering light on at some point.

Like I said before, unplug the motor jerry rig 12V so motor runs and go for a drive, if it works ok the problem is control system. Little point constantly swapping pumps/motors without carrying out that easy check.

Well i wired it directly like you said & it became easier to turn by quite a lot, much like it was on my REV 3,NA even though its still not quite as soft as i'd like it to be or is it like that from the factory & cannot get any softer?
Also the steering wheel moving a couple of inches right & left on its own that problem also went away.
I had checked the ECU driver with a multimeter earlier & it was putting out 11 volts while according to the BGB it should put out the same voltage as the battery which in my case is 12 volts.
This is where i have bought my pump from https://www.sparksparts.com/?p=catalog& ... 4431017010

It is also available with Lithia Toyota in the U.S.
I think i will check the P/S ECU as well as the steering sensor to see if anythings wrong there.

[tiff_lee]

Unable to comment how how 'soft' it is or isn't without trying it myself.

Ok well if it was actually working properly with the direct 12V i'd say your problem is a control issue, as you have just proven the motor/pump electrically (power wise) and mechanically.

Odd you don't have any error codes though, the power steering light is definitely coming on with the ignition right and extinguishing once the car is started? If so and still no error codes i'd be looking inside the ECU for any signs of damage or corrosion as per the thread linked earler.

[monstr2]

Unable to comment how how 'soft' it is or isn't without trying it myself.

Ok well if it was actually working properly with the direct 12V i'd say your problem is a control issue, as you have just proven the motor/pump electrically (power wise) and mechanically.

Odd you don't have any error codes though, the power steering light is definitely coming on with the ignition right and extinguishing once the car is started? If so and still no error codes i'd be looking inside the ECU for any signs of damage or corrosion as per the thread linked earler.

I am comparing the softness to the steering in my 2017 Suzuki swift or any other car for that matter as they all seem to require the same effort to turn.

Think i will have to do the diagnostics once again even though the P/S light seems to be working the way it is supposed to.
Thanks!

[tiff_lee]

Not sure what the suzuki swift uses but I know some cars now are assisted by a motor attached to the steering column itself or may actually have a convential power steering pump (not sure how much efficient that is mind).

[raptor95GTS]

comparing the weight (softness) of the steering of a 90's sports car to that of a 2017 city runabout isn't really a fair comparison.

[monstr2]

Unable to comment how how 'soft' it is or isn't without trying it myself.

Ok well if it was actually working properly with the direct 12V i'd say your problem is a control issue, as you have just proven the motor/pump electrically (power wise) and mechanically.

Odd you don't have any error codes though, the power steering light is definitely coming on with the ignition right and extinguishing once the car is started? If so and still no error codes i'd be looking inside the ECU for any signs of damage or corrosion as per the thread linked earler.

Checked the output voltage at the P/S pump while the car was stationary & the steering wheel being turned & it was 9 volts which seems to be within the 9-11V specs as stated in the BGB.

[tiff_lee]

Eurgh I feel like we're getting nowhere here. The power steering system is more complex then that, yeah it might have power to it when stationary but who knows what it is doing when you're driving around (not much by your reports of poor power steering) there is a reason it has its own dedicated 'ECU'.

Lets just recap:
-Changed power steering rack - no change
-Changed power steering motor/pump no change (although you need to check the wiring on them)
-Directly wired 12V to motor - improvement

It's pretty obvious the problem is on the control side.

[monstr2]

Eurgh I feel like we're getting nowhere here. The power steering system is more complex then that, yeah it might have power to it when stationary but who knows what it is doing when you're driving around (not much by your reports of poor power steering) there is a reason it has its own dedicated 'ECU'.

Lets just recap:
-Changed power steering rack - no change
-Changed power steering motor/pump no change (although you need to check the wiring on them)
-Directly wired 12V to motor - improvement

It's pretty obvious the problem is on the control side.

Last time i replaced the motor there was a significant improvement in the steering effort only time it felt stiff was when going around a U turn & it is in the last few months that it has become very stiff to operate.

[raptor95GTS]

yeah if it's got heavier since you fitted it then something is amiss for sure. Not sure what else to say, weirdly I find the steering on my 350z a good bit heavier than the mr2. Never thought I'd say that about the mr2!

[monstr2]

Fitted the new P/S pump & the steering requires lesser effort to turn it still shakes at low speeds & becomes hard when going around a U turn.

Also swapped in a P/S ECU i had lying around but it did not make any difference.

[raptor95GTS]

is the steering rack good?

[monstr2]

Eurgh I feel like we're getting nowhere here. The power steering system is more complex then that, yeah it might have power to it when stationary but who knows what it is doing when you're driving around (not much by your reports of poor power steering) there is a reason it has its own dedicated 'ECU'.

Lets just recap:
-Changed power steering rack - no change
-Changed power steering motor/pump no change (although you need to check the wiring on them)
-Directly wired 12V to motor - improvement

It's pretty obvious the problem is on the control side.

I took the car out for a spin & the steering seems to have become all right!
I added a dash of P/S oil to bring it up to level on the dip stick and the steering seems more or less like it should be & i can easily throw the car around corners.
It does stiffen up on a U turn but its much less than before & the steering wheel is still shaking at speeds between 10 kmph & 25 kmph.