Lambda/Oxygen Sensor volt test

[mrfil13]

Just wondering if someone could help clarify/help with a test i tried today on the Lamba sensor. (Rev2 Turbo)

First test i tried was E1 and TE1 connected, car warmed up, connected volt meter to VF1 and E1, ran at 2500rpm and it was displaying a steady 0.04v.

Took the car out for another run (had to do some shopping) Tried again without connecting E1 and TE1.

This time i got a fluction between 1.07v and 1.08v 8 times in 10 seconds.

Is that test still valid or is E1 and TE1 need to be bridged or should i go and test it again?

If it is an ok test, is that voltage ok and is the fluctuation ok?

Thanks

[dan4]

With bridge you should see 0v-5v switching on vf1 at 2500rpm. At idle 0v indicates fault code is stored I think

With no bridge you should see 2.5v if your ecu is not trimming fuel. Ive got a handy link on laptop il send you when I'm home

[mrfil13]

Thanks, that was a good read, thought i would link it for others.

http://alflash.com.ua/vf1.htm

Im going to try and test with it bridged again, it could be that it wasnt warm enough. If going through the MR2 BGB if its >0v with TE1 not bridged then it should be replaced, if the test with it bridged is less than 8, i presume if it is 8 times in 10 seconds then the VF1+E1 between 0 and 5v is valid, although it looks like you should really get around 2.5v.

Thing that im not sure of is would you expect it to still fluctuate with just VF1 and E1 connected as its adjusting if its running lean/rich?

Ive checked the error codes and thats all clear.

[mrfil13]

Ive tried it with E1 and TE1 bridged again.

This time it was fluctuation at least every second between 0-5v (well more like 1-4v)

Tested again with E1 and TE1 not brdiged and again got 1.08v, it did start at 2.25v briefly, can't take much from that other than it thinks its a bit rich and would lean it out.

Looks like ive ruled out the Lambda/O2 sensor as the reason for my low mpg.