Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

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munter
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by munter »

Spot on Chris the rear calliper did seem to be seized and having just read a a couple of threads on them it would appear they are a bit of a problem area. I'll maybe need to factor in a couple of reconditioned rear callipers as well then. No point putting new discs/pads on itf they're going to get wrecked! Will get the wheel off and have a proper look this weekend.

Cool on the wing mirrors, they and the black paint flaking from the A pillars are the most noticable cosmetic issues so will probably tackle them first before the windscreen rust.

Where will I get the replacement black triangle from the interior trim? Is it best to grab on off a scrapped car? Can't imagine it will be different from the NA car so should be plenty around.

Noone has mentioned the misaligned PAX side headlight. It's not a big thing but already annoys me. Is that going to be a problematic fix? I can live with the fact it may have had a small bump (my mate keeps talking about speed bumps which figures...) but if I'm going to spend around £2k getting this back in shape it would be nice to know there is nothing too tricky around the bend :shock:
Last edited by munter on Mon Feb 20, 2012 8:49 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Lauren
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by Lauren »

Brakes international do recon calipers, you get some money back for sending them your siezed ones.

Yes, the black triangle is the same on all MK1's.

You may be able to sort out the alignment of the headlight cover, there is some room for adjustment.
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oukie
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by oukie »

Ref the headlight

The front bumper bar and retainer strips could be shot, and the front bumper skin may not be being supported correctly.

Toyota do a calliper refurb seals kits which are about £60 for the rears
They are the best DIY kits available and are a right pain to do yourself but stranglely satisfying when your misses comes home to find the kitchen work tops taken over :)

Chris
Mk1b White T-bar SC 1987, Mk1b White coupe Jan90, Mk1b White coupe Jan90 (spares), Mk1b Mica blue T-bar Mar90, Mk1b Mica blue T-bar,full climate control,Jan90, 5 mk1's :)
elbon50
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by elbon50 »

oukie wrote:Ref the headlight
The front bumper bar and retainer strips could be shot, and the front bumper skin may not be being supported correctly.
Chris


My car is without front bumper bar

No problem with headlights

Peter
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by jimi »

munter wrote:
Noone has mentioned the misaligned PAX side headlight. It's not a big thing but already annoys me. Is that going to be a problematic fix? I can live with the fact it may have had a small bump (my mate keeps talking about speed bumps which figures...) but if I'm going to spend around £2k getting this back in shape it would be nice to know there is nothing too tricky around the bend :shock:

The headlight looks like it's just the cover that's needing aligned, easy to do but depending on your luck can take some time :lol:
munter
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by munter »

The more I'm finding out about this car the more it's hard to resist!

If I was to get a bodyshop to deal with all the rust (from what can be seen above) and respray how much is that going to set me back? I'm thinking if I pay to get that done at the start I won't need to worry about it again for a long while and can then spend time doing the mechanical upgrades.

Considering it's already lost the Toyota logo from the bonnet and the bonnet has been resprayed at least once already I'm not precious about keeping it 100% stock. I saw in the other thread the guy that has sprayed his MK2 04 Pearl Grey and I have to say it looks awesome. A much better colour (for me) than the white and the current wheels should suit that perfectly.

I'm prepared to put some ££ into this over the next few years but don't have all that much time so need to keep the interesting/fun fiddling for me and get the garage to do the difficult/boring stuff.

Also I think that considering how rare the Auto is it would be wrong to convert to manual!!

M
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by elbon50 »

I think you shouldn't try to resist it Paul :)

Unless of course he refuses to accept a sensible offer

They're a lovely little car to drive

If it was me, I'd leave the auto transmission in place till I'd covered a good few thou miles to really try it out

Yes an SC auto is a rare little beastie :)

Peter
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Lauren
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by Lauren »

munter wrote:
Also I think that considering how rare the Auto is it would be wrong to convert to manual!!

M


To be fair there are a fair number of autos over here. Yes rarer than the manual in the UK but tha'ts because they are less desirable.

No offence intended.

It is a bit of a job converting to manual, plus if you go to the expense of locating an E51 box you'll want one with an LSD and only around 30% of E51's have an LSD which is by my reckoning a TRD LSD which was listed as an option at the time. Only the Super Edition gets the LSD as standard AFAIK.
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by oukie »

Interesting Lauren

How do you tell if an E51 box has LSD

Chris
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pk_090
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by pk_090 »

Just weld the diff :mrgreen:

Problem solved!
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by cartledge_uk »

oukie wrote:Interesting Lauren

How do you tell if an E51 box has LSD

Chris


Drop the clutch at a lot of revs and look for a number 11 on the road :whistle:

On the AE92 you can tell by the chassis number and gearbox details on the vin plate, i'll try to find the link.

The E51 has the same internals as a rev1 mk2 so you can always retro fit one.
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by Lauren »

oukie wrote:Interesting Lauren

How do you tell if an E51 box has LSD

Chris


If you have driveshafts in it, put it in neutral and turn the shaft. If other goes in the same direction then LSD. If it turns in the opposite direction, open diff.

Mark did a how to guide if you want to tell just by visually inspecting with no driveshafts.

http://www.mr2.net/article_identifylsd.html

Open diff:
Image

LSD:
Image

If the gearbox is in the car and you want to tell, you have two options:

1, jack up the rear put it in neutral, turn one of the wheels in the forward direction. If the other turns in the same direction, then LSD if it turns in the opposite direction, then open diff.

2. Much more fun, is to find a suitable spot, put the steering on full lock (I'd recommend to the right) rev it up dump the clutch and see if you are within the next two seconds pointing in the opposite direction to which you were originally.

I went for option 2 when I had an LSD in my MR2. ;)
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pk_090
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by pk_090 »

~If they both turn in the same direction you could also be running a "mig Spec" diff :)
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Lauren
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by Lauren »

pk_090 wrote:~If they both turn in the same direction you could also be running a "mig Spec" diff :)


I've yet to hear of anyone welding an E51 diff!

Welded diffs really are terrible things!
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pk_090
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by pk_090 »

Common misconception Lauren. Only noticeable differance is when parking where one wheel will "skip".
Alex
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by Lauren »

pk_090 wrote:Common misconception Lauren. Only noticeable differance is when parking where one wheel will "skip".
Alex


Not as good as an LSD. Also a welded diff, essentially becomes a 2 way diff that is permanently locked so can cause issues like understeer on turn in depending on the setup.

My car drags a wheel when parking.
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pk_090
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by pk_090 »

Agreed not as good as an LSD, but i dont have £300 to spend on a diff to fit!
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munter
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by munter »

I doubt very much that if I go with this I'll be putting in a manual gearbox. If it comes to that she'll be up for sale and I'll be looking for a manual SC!

Given I'm going to be back looking at the car again in a few days and will need to make a decision shortly after is there anything else I need to look at as a priority?

Haven't taken much time to look at the chassis/suspension etc. Anything to look out for there besides the usual rust/decay/worn bearings and bushes?

P
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by LimeyMk1 »

I was following a BMW with a welded diff round the country lanes in Cornwall a month or so ago and you could hear the tyres skipping on the tarmac every time he went round a corner that was more than 45 degrees. :lol:

Can't be good for tyre wear surely. :-k
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Re: Munters SC Restoration Thread *pic heavy*

Post by pk_090 »

No its terrible for tyre wear, ill post a photo later, but its immense fun when nobody is looking!
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