maximum weight loss tips please

[Keri-WMS]

Sure - although we were talking about the weight saving aspect, a potential 20kg saving is the same as the passenger seat and both door cards combined....

Anyway, I'll duck out of this thread.

[Tiamat]

Sure - although we were talking about the weight saving aspect, a potential 20kg saving is the same as the passenger seat and both door cards combined....

Anyway, I'll duck out of this thread.

It started off as that, it was when we got ot prices and what wheels fit over it, changed the nature of it. No problem though, just trying to keep on topic.

[Keri-WMS]

Sure - although we were talking about the weight saving aspect, a potential 20kg saving is the same as the passenger seat and both door cards combined....

Anyway, I'll duck out of this thread.

It started off as that, it was when we got ot prices and what wheels fit over it, changed the nature of it. No problem though, just trying to keep on topic.

I thought I'd avoided prices (supplied links instead)? The only prices I can see are for alternator brackets! You're right about wheel-fitting though, my bad...

So back on topic - what is the heavy rubber thing that's bolted to the top of the crossmember, and is there any reason not to bin it?

[Keri-WMS]

One thing that occured to me (well, to my brother!!) is that it's interesting to have a "£/kg saved" rating table here? Of course removing stuff is free!

Like:

Item - saving (kg) - cost - £/kg

Empty washer fluid (1kg maybe?!!) - £0.00 - £0/kg
Alloy Alternator Brackets - 4kg - £180 - £45/kg
Carbon Bonnet mfr A - ??kg - £?? - £?/kg

Just an idea!

[pbmr2]

at last a decent weight saving topic.

my whole project is about losing massive weight off the mr2 and building it as a hill climb car.

the only things that i'm planning that have not been touched on here are:

remove everything (except chassis rails) from behind boot firewall and replace with a simple space frame. frp panels.

remove the sheet metal section (not shaped edges) of boot firewall, fit simple cross brace

remove rear subrame and suspension. replace subframe with load bearing spaceframe/bar, replace suspension with unequal double wishbones with pushrods to inboard horizontal shocks

remove everything from forward of front bulkhead. replace with load bearing spaceframe, unequal double wishbones with pushrods to inboard horizontal shocks. frp panels.
all hubs will be off the shelf motorsport hubs.

i'm starting with a rev2 g-limited tin top, curently partly stripped. i want a beams engine mainly for the lighter block. i intend to then turbo the beams. but chassis first, then engine.

i've no idea what the end weight will be but i'd like to think i can get to at least 900kg with cage etc.

sadly i've boken 10 bones after falling 12m while on holiday, so my project is on hold till about january at the earliest. for now 1 finger typing is a struggle.

[Century Motorsport]

Sorry to hear your misfortune on your holiday!

Please keep us updated with pics - I love projects like this

[Keri-WMS]

Also sorry to hear about the bad luck in falling - but glad you were lucky enough to be in a position to talk about a 12m drop!

Back back to the car, if you're seriously trying to save every gram (and are doing the the suspension from scratch) then surely the car to start with is a Rev 1 (import) tin top?

They are worth very little on eBay little due to the insurance (daft but true), and you have more headroom and a stiffer and lighter cabin. Here are the reasons, feel free to corrrect me people!

- The T-top has a heavy/bulky and weaker roof
- The T-top has extra metal in the sills to try to reduce chassis flex (80% sure?)
- The Rev 1 doesn't have the heavy side impact bars the later cars have, but you're fitting a cage anyway?

[kaiowas]

Back back to the car, if you're seriously trying to save every gram (and are doing the the suspension from scratch) then surely the car to start with is a Rev 1 (import) tin top?

Do it properly and start with a mk1 tbh

[Rogue]

Back back to the car, if you're seriously trying to save every gram (and are doing the the suspension from scratch) then surely the car to start with is a Rev 1 (import) tin top?

Do it properly and start with a mk1 tbh

Surely you mean mk3?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BVGXShxkVw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2r-VcIvEjw

[pbmr2]

thanks for the well wishes.

i love the shape of the mk2 and maybe a rev1 would have been a better starting point, but i couldn't find one in black, tin tip and with no rust.
in the end a clean rev2 with 87k turned up for next to nothing.

side impact bars are no an issue, they will be removed and the function (and more) will be taken over by the roll cage.

my mate is keen to be my hands while i'm out of action, so i may have the boot section underway soon. as soon as proper chassis work starts, there will be loads of photos.

the mk3 might be a much better starting point (weight wise) but where is the challenge in that? they are under the 1000kg as standard, are they not?

[Rogue]

the mk3 might be a much better starting point (weight wise) but where is the challenge in that? they are under the 1000kg as standard, are they not?

The challenge was in replacing the 1.8 litre engine with a 3.5 litre V6, adding an auxiliary long range fuel tank and still being under 1000kgs...

[pbmr2]

impressive

what weight are the v6 engines?

[MartG]

adding an auxiliary long range fuel tank

Where did you manage to squeeze an extra tank in - can't have been very big

[Rogue]

what weight are the v6 engines?

Wikipedia lists the service weight of the 2GR-FE at 163kgs.

Where did you manage to squeeze an extra tank in - can't have been very big

We've got a 40 litre FIA/FT3-1999 approved fuel cell installed on the passenger side of the vehicle where the cubby holes used to be. The weight of the cell is therefore on the correct side of the car for balance but higher up than we would have liked. The other location that was considered was under the bonnet of the car, behind the front wheels and very low down. We went for the current location because it allowed us to gravity feed into the OEM fuel tank and do away with extra pumps and lengths of fuel pipe for feed and return. It also keeps the run from the dry break fuel filler to the tank very short.

We estimate dry running range to be around two hours and wet running in excess of three.

When I get chance to clean the car I'll go around and take some photos of it. It's still absolutely *filthy* from Britcar 24hr!

[John145]

Lotus Elise Chassis ... 35kg...