New car, new project!

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Have been debating whether to do a build thread, as so many people have got far more interesting and, frankly better builds (Gav, I'm looking at you!).

Anyway, the objective is to create a responsive and strong motor for twisty track days. The car isn't a daily runner, and won't be getting dragged.

I had the car on one track day in it's current form and it was great fun, until the turbo and manifold parted company. A small fix I know, but it has given me the impetus to get the car sorted.

In the main, I will be doing the build myself, using roadside mechanic tools and skills, with a shed to keep warm and dry.....

I might 'cheat' when it comes to putting the engine in as I have access to a two post lift

As I want to keep the car available for track days during the project, I am building the engine using a new block and head (mainly because I don't have loads of time to do work on the car, and it may take years!).

Collected the rev2 block and head from Luize and cleaned up the block & sump to get the project started. I needed to get the bores checked to see what size pistons to buy, the machinist said that it'll need boring so 86.5mm pistons it is.

Can't sanction the bore work yet as when I got the block, I forgot to ask for the crank caps (without which I'm told the engine is scrap), and I'm waiting for my first parts shipment from our friends across the pond.

I have also (almost 100%) decided that I am now going for a rev 3 head on Nathan's advice as I am planning some different cams to the norm.

The parts list is as follows:

Already fitted:
Radtec Charge Cooler
PFC
Sard 800cc injectors
Walbro In tank pump
Mongoose exhaust
2.5" Hyper SR Downpipe

Ordered/Bought:
86.5mm CP Pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods
ARP bolts
ACL Race bearings
Alloy crank pulley
New water and Oil pumps (OEM)
Ferrea 1mm oversize valves
Supertech Dual Valve springs with titanium retainers
GSC 278 duration 11.2/11.0mm high lift cams
Fidanza Cam Gears
Garrett GT3076r
Tial 46mm Wastegate
3" V-Band Downpipe
Tubular manifold

Not much to report for now, I sanded (by hand) the sump ready for painting and that is about it.

Wish me luck.....

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This was the engine after I first put it back together:



It's changed a lot since then, but can't find any pics

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The 'new' block:









Cleaned a bit




The rocker cover, I started to sand, but probably won't use now as I'm going for rev 3 head.


Ordered some VHT 'Aluminium' Engine enamel and primer to paint the block. I can't be ar$ed to have it shot blasted, it will look the same once it's in anyway

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Just a few more pics for historical background:

Cinq rad fitted for the radtec (ziptags for now as I am planning to change the Pre-Rad for something a bit 'meatier')









Here is the engine (- the SSQV) after the Radtec was fitted and the 800cc injectors, and the PFC/Rev3 conversion - need to get some blue HT leads at some point too:





Here is my badly fitting manifold that I bought off Flea-Bay. I only bought it because I wanted the 3" V-Band downpipe, but was going to use it in the interim (pre-rev3 head)



And here is my sump after the sanding - looked like any other dirty sump before. I've primed it now with VHT paint and hopefully will be VHT Aluminium painting it later tonight.





Here it is after priming with VHT engine primer SP148 from memory

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No time to paint the sump last night, the joys of fatherhood

As I have booked myself onto the Oulton Park track day on 12th November, there is no way I can get teh new engine in by then so I'm now planning a two pronged attack.

Stage 1:
Fit the tubular manifold (hopefully), to my rev 2 engine, fit the GT3076 kit, lower the boost and have a remap, fit my Willans harnesses and get some new tyres on my Modena's. EDIT: And fit my Rogue Engine Lid Fans

There is nothing wrong with the ct26 (bar a small amount of oil leaking into the boost pipe), but I think it came loose from the manifold on the last trackday, so I figured, 'whilst I'm down there'.......

Stage 2:
Build a new rev 2 block and rev 3 head with all my upgraded parts.

There is one thing I need to know, and that is the thread pitch of the oil feed banjo on a rev 2, and the thread pitch of the oil return, so I can buy some NSP to AN converters.

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I'm also struggling to find a rev 3 head for the peanuts I want to pay. Cheapest I've been offered so far is £180 with no cams (£200 with cams).

Is that about the norm?

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Wastegate has now changed to a 38mm MV-S (V-Band kit)

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... 99#1235599

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Got home today to a bonus parcel, wasn't expecting anything this quick so big thanks to Himni racing (not that they'll see it).

Turbo kit is here

So removal began last night and more this afternoon. Old turbo, manifold and downpipe are all off, had to snap off the oil feed as it was seriously p1$$ing me off. Need to get a 28mm socket I think.

The eBay manifold is a really shut fit so will need to draw that on, nbut hope to start assembling over the next week.

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This is the stuff that arrived:




T3 Gasket


GT Oil Return Flange


-10AN 14" Braided hose for turbo oil return


-4AN 3' braided hose for oil feed (think it is way too long)


Restrictive oil feed adapter for GT turbo


GT3076R with 3" V-Band Outlet (0.63 a/r)



Tial 38mm MV-S V-Band kiy



Does anyone know if I should leave the collar in the picture above (the one in my hand)?

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As mentioned, the old turbo is off, as is the downpipe and manifold. Here is the old and new:

Bits out:




New Manifold



I cut off the edge of the fouling bracket (can see it in the pics in the engine bay), and it can now be persuaded on with a rubber hammer.

Here is the new stuff:


You can see the 46mm flange, that will be cut off and replaced with the Tial V-band adapter



Just offered the whole thing to the engine to see how close the downpipe would come to the flexi, I think it might just bolt straight on, which is an unexpected bonus.




Next steps,
1. Get the Tial V-Band flanges welded onto the Manifold and screamer pipe.
2. Order the Metric to AN adapters for the oil feed/return
3. Fit my Willans harnesses while I have clear access to the firewall
4. Fit the turbo/manifold/downpipe - connect all oil/water feeds
5. Work out the Tial stuff - don't know about coolant?!
6. Looks like my turbo to intercooler pipe is no good any more so need to get some custom stuff done
7. Need to get some 4" piping for the intake

October is going to be busy...

[ashley]

Does anyone know if I should leave the collar in the picture above (the one in my hand)?

You definately need that bit- it's the valve seat that the valve in the gate seals against


Project is looking good- I'm looking forwards to the results....same turbo as my new one

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I thought that piece on the tial looked important

Have you got your new turbo yet? What are you changing from?

I'm looking forward to the stages mine is going to go through. I had it mapped on the ct26 and it only made 220 at the fly as it had a boost leak. Wish I'd had it retested once the leak was fixed, but Ryan reckoned it would get around 280 at the fly. It's going to be rolling roaded in November with just the new turbo and downpipe, with a fairly low boost, then mapped again after the engine internals are done, so should be able to pick out the improvements - obviously the down side is the cost of mapping

[ashley]

I've still got my HKS GT3037s on there at the moment, my project is moving a bit slower than yours...but hoping to have it running by the end of the year.

Yep- got the turbo, mani etc sorted already (see pics in my garage). Just waiting on my new block...

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That's looking good mate, like your exhaust manifold!

The speed of my project is an illusion. I did the charge cooler work a few months back, just added the pics here for history.

I'm rushing because I booked in for the Oulton Park track day on 12th November and I need the car running in some entity.

Hopefully I can get the turbo kit fitted next weekend and then it should be good for the mapping session on the 3rd Nov. When I was under teh car taking the old turbo off, I noticed a fair bit of fresh oil around the sump so am a little nervous about that.

Once I start the full rebuild (engine out etc) the project will soon grind to a snails pace.....

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Well, what a nine days! Although actual days spent on the car = 1.5.

Anyway, in those 1.5 days I have:

Fitted manifold (twice as I had to take it off after realising I could change the orientation of the turbo outlet housing )

Turbo is fitted along with braided oil lines, the fittings from ThinkAuto all work fine(-4AN feed, -10AN return, M18 - 4AN converter, M28 - 12Jic then 12Jic to -10AN converter = what a palava!).

The water feeds to my turbo are the 3/8" hose barb type, and annoyingly my hose was about 1" too short to reach the coolant return barb. Used it to my advantage though. The Tial MV-S has two -4AN fittings for coolant, so £100 later, Earls are providing the necessary bits to run 3/8" braid from my turbo, to the wastegate through a -6AN & -4AN combo, then out the wastegate, back into the engine. Essentially, I am series wiring the coolant for the turbo and wastegate.

Also ordered a chunk of 4" Alloy pipe for the intake and a 4-3 inch reducer so it can mate up with the Apexi intake. Crude, but effective (wallet is another £50 lighter )

Got some 2.5" alloy pipe coming in case I need to adapt my Charge cooler pipe work, hope not though.

Gone for a cheap set of tyres that hopefully will survive a couple of track days, Toyo T1R's 205/45/16 front 225/40/16 rear.

And most of my time has been spent trying to fit some sparco seats! What a nightmare they are. Cut the rails off my old seats, which was a shame, as they were in good nick (were being the operative word). Now I was expecting that I could just bolt the rails to the seat and bobs your fathers brother, but no.

I've now ordered some lengths of 25mmx12mm mild steel flat which I am going to build a frame out of. I hope it will be strong enough and wont be too flexi...... Still, whats the worst that could happen, it's only the seat

Anyway, sorry no pics, but I'm a bit against the clock.

I had no idea how much all the little bits would cost when I started this, still, I'm sure it'll be worth it.

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Fitted some Rogue engine lid fans now and wired a switch to control the fans and my CC pump as it is really noisy and comes on when I turn the ignition on, which is annoying!

Also finally fitted my PFC to the boot firewall (replacing the zip tags ) and tidied up some cabling.

Decided to fit the 4 wire Lambda that I've had in my shed for over a year while I'm doing all this so the PFC O2 feature can be turned back on.

Taken delivery of some new relays, so hopefully the fans will work now.

Also received my alloy crank pulley, that can go in a cupboard for a few months.

Got a piece of 1.5" SS pipe for the screamer, 4" alloy pipe for intake (and some silicon pipes), and 2.5" alloy pipe for Chargecooler pipes.

Also got the 12mm steel bar for the seat rails.

Hopefully get all the braided hose for 'series wiring' the coolant to my turbo and wastegate.

Busy weekend ahead of me........

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Some random pics; hope they work as they're png from the iphone

Here is my new intake pipe, screamer pipe, and charge cooler pipe, also has a 4" blue silicon pipe and 4" to 3" reducer but I could only get black, have ordered a blue one too and will use that if it arrives in time.




Standard engine lid and the fans that I've fitted instead



Random piece of metal that will become my seat rails

[bri0905]

When you say you have wired in a switch for the cc pump and fans is that one switch or both or one switch for each thing?

Either way, is having the cc pump switchable a good thing?? What if you forget to switch it on, won't take long on a track day for temps to get dangerously hot with it off.

Just a suggestion, Otherwise good progress being made on your project!!

[Shmed]

The switch is for the fans and the pump (on one switch). You make a fair point about not wanting to forget to put the pump back on, but you haven't heard my pump

Ideally I'd like it wired like JimGTS has his fans, where it can be switched off, but if the engine bay gets hot the fans come on anyway.

I imagine it's one of those switches that will be permanently on, but i have a GoPro camera that I'd like to charge from the fag lighter, which needs the ignition on, so need to switch the chargecooler pump off.

I'm sure it will evolve once I get a grip on electronics....

[bri0905]

Yeah evolve is the word.

Try and get it so ciggy lighter is on when ignition is on position 1 and cc pump is on on on position 2.

Bri