[Mk2] [NA] New to the MR2 World - My Mr. Two Track Car Project

[Alex B]

Hi folks,

Firstly I'd like to say a formal 'hello' as this is my first post here on IMOC!

I've bought my self a Toyota Go-Kart so I can have some fun at the Nürburgring this year and was looking to the IMOC for advice on good suppliers for various bits and pieces...

I have a '91 SW20 and I'm looking to prepare this car for the track but not to the extent that it won't be driveable most/everyday (in the short term.)

The list of modifications I'm intending to perform on this car are as follows:

• 
• Wheels
  
• Brakes (Discs and Calipers)
  
• Suspension (Springs and Dampers)
  
• Air Intake
  
• Exhaust System (inc. Manifold and Down Pipes)
  
• ECU enhancements
  
• HT Leads etc
  
• Bucket seats
  
• Roll Cage
  
• Splitter
  
• Rear Spoiler
  

My questions are:

Wheels - What are the recommended sizes and offsets (I'm thinking 17x7 for the size atm.) Is there a preferred supplier for wheels fitting MR2s?

Brakes - Who are the best people to supply a full brake system for reasonable cost? Any online retail links?

Suspension - Recommended setups? Thinking Koni system on this.

Air-Intake - Recommended kit, any preferred supplier on these, I prefer to use solutions such as HKS and other japanese specialist kit normally but looking for advise on this, especially on where I can easily source it.

Exhaust - Recommended Down-pipe and manifold combinations, looking at getting a power-flow custom for the rest as I don't want it to be raucous.

ECU - Forgive my newbiness on this, I assume this car is 'new' enough to utilise an ECU for the injection not mechanical so any ideas on the best steps to take on the ECU would be much appreciated.

HT Leads etc - People's experience with these would be helpful, the leads themselves may well not be 'that' important but other things like distribution mechanisms etc, any info on these would be a great help.

Bucket Seats - I quite like the idea of getting some Bride seats as they will match the interior (which I want to keep) will I be able to get some to fit in an MR2? If not, what other seats do you guys recommend.

Roll-Cage - In two minds about this, about whether or not to get one, who can do them credibly? What are the costs and implications.

Splitter - As my focus is the track, I'd like to keep the downforce good on the front end to reduce understeer. Are there any recommended Splitters or even opinions on their effectiveness when put on an MR2?

Rear-Spoiler - Is the standard rear spoiler (not the raised high one) an adequate solution for rear downforce or is it 100% cosmetic? Any preferred spoilers that suit an MR2 that don't make it look like a shopping trolley!

Plus any other advice about fast-street to track preparation for an MR2 I would be extremely greatful for, I know what's what when I was playing with my old Skyline but the world of MR2 is completely new to me.

Also, I'd rather hope this post may become helpful for anyone else new to MR2s looking for a good general thread oon midifying MR2s perhaps for the same purpose.

I'd also like to update this thread with my pictured progress on the build although patience is required as I'll be modifying a bit at a time over the coming months.

Regards
A

[SFLee]

wheels i think 15 inch or 16 inch for handling, 17 is for the look and cheap tire (i have 17 btw) and most light weight will work (costly though)

Brakes try hispec , google hispec

Suspension (Springs and Dampers) -> track may switch to coilover or turbo version std suspension, harder spring

Air Intake -> apexi, hks let lots of dirt in ur engine

Exhaust System -> not too sure , but not much choice on NA

# ECU enhancements > not much won not bother, spend money else where

Roll Cage -> rogue aka revision 6

[Alex B]

Thanks for your response!

wheels i think 15 inch or 16 inch for handling, 17 is for the look and cheap tire (i have 17 btw) and most light weight will work (costly though)

I was kind of thinking the same myself, then there is the part where I can't get the alloy design I like in 16"

I'm going to have to hunt around a bit though, was possibly looking at some Gram Lights/Rays but they tend to be pricey.

Brakes try hispec , google hispec

I will give them a look!

Suspension (Springs and Dampers) -> track may switch to coilover or turbo version std suspension, harder spring

I'd prefer to look at buying a 'set' and just having it all done in one go ligistically speaking. I've found so far that my standard units are way to boingy, not enough damping, while actually being quite stiff at the same time. I'm not sure if 'uprated' sets will improve this or not.

Air Intake -> apexi, hks let lots of dirt in ur engine

I've heard this a lot myself. I've seen that Blitz do a SUS solution, not 100% sure if they do one for an NA car or not though.

Exhaust System -> not too sure , but not much choice on NA

I'm struggling to find a manifold full-stop, I thought there'd be loads given the popularity of the car.

# ECU enhancements > not much won not bother, spend money else where

Point taken, but welcome other (pro or con) opinions on this also.

Roll Cage -> rogue aka revision 6

I'll try and google that, would I lose use of the glovebox or anything else with this roll cage?

[RST]

Alex,

I don't do track days (only had the car on a track once during a private session) but:

N/A's all about handling to me:

Suspension: I don't think you can go wrong with coilovers such as tein superstreets with pillowball top mounts. Turn the damping down for the odd street run, turn them up for the track -works great. These plus PU suspension bushes. If you can stretch to it that is -perhaps a 2n'd hand set of coilovers from a rep. source works out the same as the alternatives.

Strut braces front and rear: I was staggered at the difference from such a simple mod. I have Cusco ones -can get cheaper I guess. Check out your lower braces at the bottom of the firewall in front of the engine. They're only a foot long and rust like hell -again, changing these for new made a noticeable difference for me.

Brakes: I spent a while looking at this. I believe the stock callipers are actually very capable (seems allot of the Celica guys swap for the 2 pot MR2 ones though they beieve the tubby one's are better than the N/A for some reason?? You try telling them they're the same). Drilled / grooved / dimpled discs I would avoid. I have stock vented discs and Carbotech pads and it's AWESOME. I don't have braided lines yet (coming though) but I'd do that as well -maybe an upgrade on your brake fluid as well. [plus, one EBC and Black Diamond supplier couldn't recommend me any of their drilled/grooved/dimpled discs as anything other than for "show use"]. Says allot.

Wheels: 17's for show. 15's -stock will do you (plentiful for cheap as well). Not going into tyres -they're like poitics/religion, except that allot of folk comment that Toyo TR1's aren't great on 15's. They are good on 17's though for me -I tried to keeo the same (or close to) the stock ratio of widths front and back to keep the balance.

Intake: Personally I think you get what you pay for. The folk I know who have K'nd N intakes just throw them away after a session. Personally I'd go for a re-useable (washable OIL-LESS) twin cone one like A'Pexi OR Power Enterprise. A few years ago A'Pexi were bust, going, bust, going -so I cancalled my order and went Power Enterprise. From the pictures, they appear almost exactly the same but it's a reliable source. Dunno what it's like now. I had great dyno figures from a SARD kit, more expensive -but see my first comment in this paragraph.

ECU: Personally I'd avoid anything piggybacked. Just my oppinion -and one experience though. Probably won't need anything more than stock though.

Exhaust: I didn't stray from commercial cat-back systems. I believe Rogue use Mongoose exhausts on their race cars. Whether you go Blueflame or Mongoose, the latter is more likely to fit, but the former is a couple of quid cheaper. Fit a de-cat or a sports cat. You could consider taking off the exhaust manifold and partially grinding back the weld roots at the top -least that's what I need to do on mine. Not too sure about the stock 3SGE.

You could fit an oil catch can between your valve cover and your intake (not too sure what a 91 is like -is that rev 1 or 2? is there a difference).

HT leads -I fitted Magnecor leads on my original 3SGE, the stock ones were the thinnest one's I have seen on an engine that capacity -that was a personal choice though. Aparently new stock leads are OK -just keep them clean! I keep on telling my mates to keep their leads clean -and don't let WD40 any near thgem!!!!

Cosmetics: splitters / spoilers............. Just that from what I've seen.

....Are you thinking of a certain track day series (e.g. restrictions?). For a track car I'd look more at:

Fast road cams
Lightweight flywheel -Mine's a C-One one (lightest option out of the 2 offered) -there's life other than Fidanza!
ECU -stand alone IF you can afford it it -LINK G3 is apparently a good one but there's heaps for the normal 3SGE. Personally I'm still to hear of a good pigyback ECU though -any takers????

....loads of things you can do on the stock engine, not going to list them here.

Roll cages: Don't know much about them, but several folk have said (not just MR2 owners) there seem to be 2 types: 1) those which you cut holes in your dashboard so that the tube can run down the A-Pillar and down to the floor pan and 2) those which run down the A-Pillar and curve back out and follow the dashboard then go down to the floor. I dunno, but the former looks a much better idea to me structurally speaking. I know at least one guy doing track days without a roll cage. Do you need one for track days? Do you feel comfortable without one?

Caveat on all this -there's going to be loads of folk who will dissagree, but I've a Celica driver friend (stripped out -track day only) who would pretty much echo similar things (differences in cars aside of course).

Richard

[Alex B]

Richard,

I want to thank you for your post it was most enlighting and will help me moving forward.

N/A's all about handling to me:

I agree which precisely one of the reasons why I went for one. The other being that given the budget I don't want the extreme maintenance issues having performance turbos bring.

Suspension: I don't think you can go wrong with coilovers such as tein superstreets with pillowball top mounts. Turn the damping down for the odd street run, turn them up for the track -works great. These plus PU suspension bushes. If you can stretch to it that is -perhaps a 2n'd hand set of coilovers from a rep. source works out the same as the alternatives.

I saw a price on the Tein kit although it was quite a lot more than the Koni solution. I still get lost in the choices to be honest. my biggest struggle is not being able to window shop all this stuff with up to date and accurate prices and listings.

Strut braces front and rear: I was staggered at the difference from such a simple mod. I have Cusco ones -can get cheaper I guess. Check out your lower braces at the bottom of the firewall in front of the engine. They're only a foot long and rust like hell -again, changing these for new made a noticeable difference for me.

I saw these on the Whiffbitz website alongside some others by another well known manufacturer. There were no pictures of them though.

Regarding the lower braces; Are they easy to source can you get uprated ones?

On a similar note, can you get a comprehensive set of bushes and dampers for the whole car? Including engine mounts?

Brakes: I spent a while looking at this. I believe the stock callipers are actually very capable (seems allot of the Celica guys swap for the 2 pot MR2 ones though they beieve the tubby one's are better than the N/A for some reason?? You try telling them they're the same). Drilled / grooved / dimpled discs I would avoid. I have stock vented discs and Carbotech pads and it's AWESOME. I don't have braided lines yet (coming though) but I'd do that as well -maybe an upgrade on your brake fluid as well. [plus, one EBC and Black Diamond supplier couldn't recommend me any of their drilled/grooved/dimpled discs as anything other than for "show use"]. Says allot.

This is an interesting opinion and one I'm going to bear in mind for sure, although increasing the disc diameter and thuse surface is still something I'm interested in doing. I will have to weigh up the costs on that.

Wheels: 17's for show. 15's -stock will do you (plentiful for cheap as well). Not going into tyres -they're like poitics/religion, except that allot of folk comment that Toyo TR1's aren't great on 15's. They are good on 17's though for me -I tried to keeo the same (or close to) the stock ratio of widths front and back to keep the balance.

I kinda agree as per my previous post. I'm thinking more Rays 16" but still not sure. 7" front 8" rear. Tires I am thinking of giving the Toyos a go, used Falken FK451s on my GT-R.

Intake: Personally I think you get what you pay for. The folk I know who have K'nd N intakes just throw them away after a session. Personally I'd go for a re-useable (washable OIL-LESS) twin cone one like A'Pexi OR Power Enterprise. A few years ago A'Pexi were bust, going, bust, going -so I cancalled my order and went Power Enterprise. From the pictures, they appear almost exactly the same but it's a reliable source. Dunno what it's like now. I had great dyno figures from a SARD kit, more expensive -but see my first comment in this paragraph.

Do you have the model name of the Sard kit for MR2; supplier info?

ECU: Personally I'd avoid anything piggybacked. Just my oppinion -and one experience though. Probably won't need anything more than stock though.

The ecu thing was a prospective mod but going to have to look at the gains vs. cost on the more comprehensive options.

Exhaust: I didn't stray from commercial cat-back systems. I believe Rogue use Mongoose exhausts on their race cars. Whether you go Blueflame or Mongoose, the latter is more likely to fit, but the former is a couple of quid cheaper. Fit a de-cat or a sports cat. You could consider taking off the exhaust manifold and partially grinding back the weld roots at the top -least that's what I need to do on mine. Not too sure about the stock 3SGE.

You could fit an oil catch can between your valve cover and your intake (not too sure what a 91 is like -is that rev 1 or 2? is there a difference).

This kind of thing I'm going to need to sort with a tuner. Anyone know of any Toyota specialist tuners in the South Oxfordshire/Berkshire region?

HT leads -I fitted Magnecor leads on my original 3SGE, the stock ones were the thinnest one's I have seen on an engine that capacity -that was a personal choice though. Aparently new stock leads are OK -just keep them clean! I keep on telling my mates to keep their leads clean -and don't let WD40 any near thgem!!!!

Is there any difference/gain/loss in using alternates like hks and the other usual suspects?

Cosmetics: splitters / spoilers............. Just that from what I've seen.

I struggle to find splitters full stop let alonevone's that would aactually give downforce! Does the vented bonnet option flow air from underneath or is that cosmetic only?

....Are you thinking of a certain track day series (e.g. restrictions?). For a track car I'd look more at:

Not really just adhoc playtime.

Fast road cams
Lightweight flywheel -Mine's a C-One one (lightest option out of the 2 offered) -there's life other than Fidanza!
ECU -stand alone IF you can afford it it -LINK G3 is apparently a good one but there's heaps for the normal 3SGE. Personally I'm still to hear of a good pigyback ECU though -any takers????

....loads of things you can do on the stock engine, not going to list them here.

These are certainly things I'm considering, but for the more long term budget dictating.

Roll cages: Don't know much about them, but several folk have said (not just MR2 owners) there seem to be 2 types: 1) those which you cut holes in your dashboard so that the tube can run down the A-Pillar and down to the floor pan and 2) those which run down the A-Pillar and curve back out and follow the dashboard then go down to the floor. I dunno, but the former looks a much better idea to me structurally speaking. I know at least one guy doing track days without a roll cage. Do you need one for track days? Do you feel comfortable without one?

While I'm pretty competent at Forza real life is another thing and if the cost is manageable then it's probably worth it!

Caveat on all this -there's going to be loads of folk who will dissagree, but I've a Celica driver friend (stripped out -track day only) who would pretty much echo similar things (differences in cars aside of course).

Richard

If noone disagreed it would be fact! All opinions are welcome!

[Race Idiot]

With the brakes i'd say you'd be best going for a set of rev2 (1992 and onwards) calipers/discs/pads which should be better than the rev1 brakes. Combine the rev2+ brakes with an agressive pad and you shouldnt have a problem at the track. Dont worry about silly stuff like drilled and slotted discs.

The suspension, seeing as your car is a 1991 i'd say just keep it simple with the koni inserts and a set of good springs, like the eibach/trd/h&r/rsr. Also a set of stiffer/thicker antirollbars (I have trd ones, but the whiteline ones are meant to be good, also tanabe make some if you can get em). Also a set of polybushings should help as on a 1991 car the oe rubber ones are probably pas there best by now, also possibly new uppermounts, balljoints and droplinks just to keep the suspension as fresh as possible and those are common things to go on the suspension. Also allot of people have been praising pillowball tensionrods as they are meant to improve steering

Personally for me Antiroll bars > Strutbraces, my car handled no differently with strutbars but man the antirollbars made a big difference in how flat the car corners.

Wheels, i'd say get a set of the standard 15's as you can put a nice sticky Toyo R888 on em for the track. If you go for aftermarket ones try not to get silly heavy ones that are all the same width, you want to have staggered ones say 7' front and 8' rear and make sure they are the correct offset.

Intake, eh I wouldnt bother on an na car but if you had to i'd go for the Apexi ones.

I think fujitsubo or some other jap company makes a manifold for the older style 3sge, combine that with a single exit jap exaust used, lightweight flywheel and some more agressive cams it should be plenty peppy. I guess on top of that you could get a link ecu and then get it mapped but i dont know how much of a difference it would make over the stock ecu

[2Crooky]

Hello mate.....

Is your car a turbo??

I am track prepping my MR2 turbo so may be able to help. Weight is a big killer in how agile and nimble the car is so easy ways to lose weight are:

Remove spare wheel and toolkit/jack.....
Lightweight wheels
Half size battery
Partially stripped interior
Lightweight exhaust
Carbon fibre panels

Just a few to think about but its up to you how far you take it......

If you are planning a ring trip i would not go 15s.......You will overheat your brakes in about 2 laps!!! With upgraded brakes there is not sufficient cooling space between wheel and disc to avoid massive heat transfer. I would recommend 16" wheels as they are more pleasing to the eye and still great for handling!! Staggered setup preferrably....7" front and 8" rear.....

Without going for 17" wheels it limits your choice on big brake kits due to not enough wheel clearance. Rev 3 discs and calipers with braided lines, carotech pads and dot 5.1 fluid will be a good starting point.

The koni shock and spring kit is a very good ride....Not too aggressive and still comfortable. Its up to you if you fork out for some coilovers or just the koni's. For track also look into aftermarket strut bracing, anti roll bars and poly urethane bush kit.

Talk to Hayward&Scott custom exhaust fabricators for the ideal system. Much better quality than powerflow and bigger bore piping.

Bride seats are awesome but if you go for a non reclinable bucket you better be a bean pole or very short as the seats are damn snug!! There are many good makes of bucket seat: Sparco, Bride, Recaro, Cobra, Corbeau just to name a few. Do you want reclinable or fixed??

Have a chat with Patrick at Rogue Motorsport as they have several cars in the MR2 Challenge. All of which are naturally aspirated and fully track prepped!!

Alex

[Alex B]

Thanks for the response guys, they are all surely helping me.

I will have a work with Rogue Motorsport, when it was mentioned earlier I thought they were a parts manufacturer, didn't know they were a tuner/specialist, and they're not far from me either.

I keep feeling that the standard discs won't be enough to handle the Nürburgring effectively which means, 16" wheels at least and a slightler bigger brake setup. 17" wheels may inhibit acceleration out of the corners due to the larger inertia inherent with them.

Thanks again for your help on these points, I need to speak to Rogue and then decide what the first upgrade is going to be.

I will be giving the Go-Kart a polish over the weekend and then will take some piccies. It's only a cheap one so its by no means a perfect example!

[marcnoonan]

Wheels: 17's for show. 15's -stock will do you (plentiful for cheap as well). Not going into tyres -they're like poitics/religion, except that allot of folk comment that Toyo TR1's aren't great on 15's. They are good on 17's though for me -I tried to keeo the same (or close to) the stock ratio of widths front and back to keep the balance.

To be honest I've got a set of the TR1's on 17"'s at the mo and my old Eagle F1's p*ssed all over them, could never get them to slide (well once at about 80 round a tight bend) or even screech and they'll burn the clutch out before they'll spin off the line in an N/A. Wish now I'd paid the extra £100 for a set. Had my car for over 8 years and gone through a few sets....100% F1's!

Marc

Marc

[Extubby]

Don't waste your money on big flash brakes. Standard discs and carbotech pads are all you need. Thre are many on here with 350+bhp and running standard caliper and carbo pads.

Unless you want to keep it an N/A save the money you were going to spend on modding the n/a and put it toward a rev3 turbo conversion.

For now I would do brakes, suspension, tyres and save for the turbo. You could always be different and supercharge you engine.

[Alex B]

Don't waste your money on big flash brakes. Standard discs and carbotech pads are all you need. Thre are many on here with 350+bhp and running standard caliper and carbo pads.

Unless you want to keep it an N/A save the money you were going to spend on modding the n/a and put it toward a rev3 turbo conversion.

For now I would do brakes, suspension, tyres and save for the turbo. You could always be different and supercharge you engine.

I am seeing the general consensus is to continue using the standard brakes. What I am thinking of doing is getting new standard discs, carbontech pads and reconditioned standard calipers (just to be sure.) And see how I go with those.

However, I am not going to Turbo this car. It will remain an NA as I don't want the troubles that come with a Turbo. Yes I'd like to increase it's power but it's not as important as getting the handling right for the track.

To be honest I've got a set of the TR1's on 17"'s at the mo and my old Eagle F1's p*ssed all over them, could never get them to slide (well once at about 80 round a tight bend) or even screech and they'll burn the clutch out before they'll spin off the line in an N/A. Wish now I'd paid the extra £100 for a set. Had my car for over 8 years and gone through a few sets....100% F1's!

I'm interested to know if many others feel the same about Toyos versus F1s?

Is the difference the same in both wet and dry conditions?

[Extubby]

I have the toyo's on mine and HATE them. F1's are great on the road but get too hot on track and start to melt.

[RST]

Guys don't turn this into a tyre debate! Nobody will win and it's all over the forum. I just suggested that folk don't get on well with them on 15's -but I said I'm not a track expert as well. Toyo's on 17's have been the mutts for me and I can't fault them after the stupidy long breakng in period.

[marcnoonan]

Fair does..Lets not debate..F1's ARE BETTER, so ner, ner ner. (just more expensive)

Although I wasn't aware of the stupidly long running in period with the Toyo's so I'll wait. I've taken exactly the same hairpin on a steep hill (Saltburn Bank which some of you know) in both sets of tires in the wet and the Toyos spun (No LSD) whereas the F1's didn't. Thanks for letting me know.

Hi Alex,

Defo go for braided hose lines, makes a HUUUGE defference to the feel and responsiveness of the brakes.

Just partially reconditioned my calipers and that has had noticeable effects too, especialy with the handbrake, so I'd go with that one too.

That's about the extent of my mechanical upgrade knowledge that I don't think has been mentioned.

Marc

[RST]

Tyre choices aside.........

Got fed up with my brakes though, looking back through the history -way too much refurb on each and every corner. New calipers all round for me. About time for a car 16 years old (coming up in October).

...I don't have the car at the moment but braking was always an issue. Not comfortable driving it again though without getting the brakes A1.

[Alex B]

I agree with not turning this into a tyre debate although opinions do help me.

Regarding the brakes, yes I'm still in two minds whether to go big brakes or not. Considering that the Nürburgring will definately be quite challenging for them I may be able to cook them with too much ease. I'm going to have to sleep on that one a little longer.

Having said that, the standard brakes feel great. They in-fact feel much better than the standard brembos on my GT-R (which in turn felt much better than the AP Brakes that were on it before I bought it!) Maybe that was a bleeding issue or something, but I do like these standard ones right now.

I've been busy this weekend trying to figure things out, I took a trip home to Plymouth this weekend and went to some of the garages I've used in the past when I was living there.

First stop was to get my tyres checked. I'm noticing SIGNIFICANT steering vibration at around 70 mph which just gets worse from there on. I had asked for a full balance and tracking check on the car, and basically the guy instantly told me that this wouldn't solve it. The cheap ass tyres on the standard 14" rims have uneven tread! Oh well, I'm getting new rims anyway, I'll try and get some today I thought!

Then off to their next door neighbours to find out what part of my exhaust is blowing, a quick check from the guy and he tells me it's the flexi pipe that's gone. OK so now I know which bit, next question, which I put to you guys, is when replacing the system, can I get a performance upgrade to the flexi-pipe or do I need to have that pipe no matter what?

After this I popped over to Alan Jeffrey's to get my car on the Dyno, to basically get a baseline power curve for the car before I change I single thing. He was busy with a Dyno day so I had to come back later. Off to Halfrauds I trundled to see what rims they had in stock etc. After a brief chat with the guy, I quickly find out I'm not going to leave any establishment with rims that day! So he gives me a pointer to Rare Rims based in Collumpton who carry Rota rims in stock, I'm waiting to hear back from them on the availability on TE37-a-likes with a 7" front and 8" rear setup.

You guys recommended the staggered fitment, but you didn't say how difficult it was going to be to actually get them! ROFL.

After this, I mosied on back to the Alan Jeffrey's, they got the car on the ramp, and I waited with a friend outside the booth (they have a seperate screen setup for 'audiences') hoping for an ok result. The first run came out and I was a little gobsmacked to be honest. I thought mine had a standard figure of 156-158bhp but the guy said that the UK spec one had 164bhp standard. OK I said, then the second run came through....

163.6 BHP!

I was quite pleased with this! Although I'm still a little scepticle. He said it's the closest to spec bhp he's ever seen on a standard NA!

I will upload the graph later on for your perusal, however there are some things to note about it:

- I was running 97 RON fuel at the time
- The exhaust is blowing quite a bit, I'm not sure if this is contributing or not.
- The ATW figure was (I think) 101.3 if I'm reading the graph right. Does 60 brake loss sound about right?

I also spent 4 hours polishing the car to bring out the colour a bit, although by the time I finished it was dark so a decent picture is going to have to wait.

[Alex B]

And here's the graph

[Alex B]

The struggle to find 16" wheels in staggered configuration that I actually like is proving too difficult. I may well go for a set of Rotas in 17x7.5 and 17x9 as the best affordable option for me right now.

I will have to let you know how they ride when I get them.

[Mikey P MR2]

A difference of 62bhp between the fly and wheels sounds a lot to me, some dyno, some places just guess this others calculate it by letting the rollers bring the car to a standstill. Sounds like they might have just guessed this using a standard formula which does not take into accounts the mr2’s lower than average transmission loses.
I would have thought about a 40bhp difference is more likely.

All other plans sounds good and look forward to reading about the updates. I am also fairly sure rev 1 and 2 cars only have 254 and 258 bhp depending on if they have a cat fitted or not.

[Alex B]

A difference of 62bhp between the fly and wheels sounds a lot to me, some dyno, some places just guess this others calculate it by letting the rollers bring the car to a standstill. Sounds like they might have just guessed this using a standard formula which does not take into accounts the mr2’s lower than average transmission loses.
I would have thought about a 40bhp difference is more likely.

This is what I thought also. I didn't pay enough attention to know if he'd let it come to rest properly or not. If anyone who knows about Dyno Dynamics Dynos is reading; from the graph do any of the numbers at the bottom represent the loss figures at all?

All other plans sounds good and look forward to reading about the updates. I am also fairly sure rev 1 and 2 cars only have 254 and 258 bhp depending on if they have a cat fitted or not.

I'll assume you meant 154 and and 158 respectively