Poly Engine Mounts

[Frosty617]

Anyone have experience of these?
Clicky
What are they like?

[MartG]

Got a set, but the engine isn't back in the car yet

[LimeyMk1]

Noticibly more vibration from the engine, but it doesn't flap about on it's mounts as much (or hardly at all). Might improve performance a wee bit but you probably won't really notice.

Speed-source are a good company, I've had a few bits that are made by them (braided clutch hose and shift bushes).

There's also the inserts by kbox.ca for an alternative or if you're feeling very DIY you can buy polyurethane in two pack and pour it yourself .

[Frosty617]

It's just the flapping about I want to stop!
Does anywhere in the UK do them this cheap?

[LimeyMk1]

It's just the flapping about I want to stop!
Does anywhere in the UK do them this cheap?

Not that I know of.

If you wanted to do a DIY fill (what I ended up doing) you can buy the polyurethane from rscomponents www.rswww.com part number 199-1395.

HTH

Chris

[Frosty617]

Well that's certainly a lot cheaper! Just the one bag enough?
Clicky - This the stuff??
£7.50!!
What do you do just mix the stuff up and pour it in over the old mounts? Or do you take the old rubber out? If so how do you ensure the spindles(??) are in the corrct place?

[MartG]

Does anywhere in the UK do them this cheap?

Be warned - I got hit for £24 import duty on mine

[Frosty617]

Does anywhere in the UK do them this cheap?

Be warned - I got hit for £24 import duty on mine

Hmmm was worried about that but I have a 'contact' in the states that can post them and write them up as a gift to family so should negate that?

[LimeyMk1]

Well that's certainly a lot cheaper! Just the one bag enough?
Clicky - This the stuff??
£7.50!!
What do you do just mix the stuff up and pour it in over the old mounts? Or do you take the old rubber out? If so how do you ensure the spindles(??) are in the corrct place?

That's the stuff!

You can do it either way, depending on how solid you want your mounts.

I tried cutting the rubber out on one set but made a hash of the mix because I rushed it so don't know how solid the mounts are like this. I got the spindles lined up by cutting out plastic end pieces (one with fill holes) to keep the spindles in line.

IMO the mounts will be solid enough with just a fill round the existing rubber.

[Frosty617]

Cool,
I think i may just go with this option then - is it difficult to get the torque mounts out?

[LimeyMk1]

3 bolts on each.

Oh and Welcome to IMOC! (How rude of me not welcoming you earlier )

[cartledge_uk]

Just be carefull doing the self fill method.

If you track your car or are very hard on it they are too stiff and can cause problems.

Had an engine blow because of them (also every nut and bolt fell out or shered)

[Frosty617]

3 bolts on each.

Oh and Welcome to IMOC! (How rude of me not welcoming you earlier )

Cheers matey - been around a while though, was originally under Frosty615 but got a new username.
More on mr2oc but I prefer this forum as the technical knowledge is a lot more freely available.
I don't track the car but I've got quite a heavy right foot Cartledge.......
Did you take out the rubbers or did you fill around them?

[Jim-SR]

so long as the rubber mounts arent badly worn id just do the rear mount, this is the one that stops it winding up on acceleration and youll still get some compliance from all the other mounts

[HT]

so long as the rubber mounts arent badly worn id just do the rear mount, this is the one that stops it winding up on acceleration and youll still get some compliance from all the other mounts

Top-tip Been looking at the state of mine, and wondered the best way to go. Had even thought of going to toyota for a pair, but this sounds a good compromise.

[Jim-SR]

im just gonna pack my rear mount full of 2-pack urethane, and then drill the urethane as many times as is required to get it to the correct "stiffness". the more holes you drill, the more the mount can deflect. you dont want it solid, but on the other hand you want it stiffer than standard. once one person finds the good point, everyone else can copy their drillings lol

[jimi]

You could always try what I'm experimenting with
I bought a large tube of this



in for doing my T-bar seals. I had loads left so decided to experiment on a spare front engine mount I had.
Did this



and left it for a couple of days to cure, then fitted it to my car.
It certainly stiffened up the mount to the extent that I can feel vibration where there was none before, especially at idle. It does take all the rock out of the engine when you accelerate hard. I'm going to go back to a standard mount on the front and repeat the experiment with the rear mount, to see what difference that makes. Then probably try it with both and also with partial fills until I get the result I want.
How long the silicone will last remains to be seen, but so far so good ( about a month )
I'm trying to get a specific data sheet for the sealant I used find out what the hardness of the sealant is, from browsing the net I've found that depending on manufacturer silicone sealant ranges from about 22 to 60 shore. The RS compound is around 70 IIRC.
The beauty of using silicone sealant is that you can fill a bit a time until you get the stiffness you want, unlike the poly mix where you have to do it in one go
Jimi

[HT]

You could always try what I'm experimenting with
I bought a large tube of this
Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://www.makingdiyeasier.co.uk/images ... ealant.jpg
in Black for doing my T-bar seals. I had loads left so decided to experiment on a spare front engine mount I had.
Did this
Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/membersfiles/dscf0001a.jpg
and left it for a couple of days to cure, then fitted it to my car.
It certainly stiffened up the mount to the extent that I can feel vibration where there was none before, especially at idle. It does take all the rock out of the engine when you accelerate hard. I'm going to go back to a standard mount on the front and repeat the experiment with the rear mount, to see what difference that makes. Then probably try it with both and also with partial fills untill I get the result I want.
How long the silicone will last remains to be seen, but so far so good ( about a month )
I'm trying to get a specific data sheet for the sealant I used find out what the hardness of the sealant is, from browsing the net I've found that depending on manufacturer silicone sealant ranges from about 22 to 60 shore. The RS compound is around 70 IIRC.
The beauty of using silicone sealant is that you can fill a bit a time until you get the stiffness you want, unlike the poly mix where you have to do it in one go
Jimi

Ingenius Jimi (as ever!) Also easier to get hold as RS won't ship the urethane.

[jimi]

I got the sealant from Homebase its Unibond Super all purpose Silicone Sealant, Black ( waterproof for interior/exterior use ) around £8 for a big tube, you could fill dozens of mounts with 1 tube if you just fill the spaces., very easy to work with.
As I said only time will tell how it stands up to the wear and tear, having said that its that cheap and easy to do it wouldn't be a big deal if I had to do it yearly. What I'm aiming for is to remove the engine rock on hard acceleration without making it rigid and transmitting the vibrations all over the car.

[HT]

I got the sealant from Homebase its Unibond Super all purpose Silicone Sealant, Black ( waterproof for interior/exterior use ) around £8 for a big tube, you could fill dozens of mounts with 1 tube if you just fill the spaces., very easy to work with.
As I said only time will tell how it stands up to the wear and tear, having said that its that cheap and easy to do it wouldn't be a big deal if I had to do it yearly. What I'm aiming for is to remove the engine rock on hard acceleration without making it rigid and transmitting the vibrations all over the car.

Exactly what I'd like to achieve! Looked at the one's on two'r'us and seem mega hard for road applications - so will look into this.