Rebuild nightmare - no oil pressure

[Grajey]

Oh dear, it's not looking good.

Finally got car ready for starting today.
Disconnect coil lead and turn engine over to raise oil pressure. [-o<

After a few seconds oil light is still on.

Damn, NOOOOOOOOOOO

Pulls dipstick and oil has not moved.
Removes lower part of sump.
Strainer is in the oil.

So it looks like NEW oil pump is FUBAR or oil relief valve is stuck open.
I can't think of anything else it could be.

Just needed to say I'm almost depressed.

Just hoping I can check these without taking engine out.

If anyone has any opther ideas then all suggestions welcome.

[paul port]

did you pre-fill the oil filter with oil?

You may have just been pumping it full of oil for those few seconds.

Paul

[Grajey]

Forgot to add that I removed the oil filter and it was empty.

[AM TUNING]

edited!!!

[Grajey]

Is it possible to check/change oil pressure relief valve without dropping engine?

What if new oil pump is FUBAR? Can I change this without dropping engine?

Thanks

[Steve Horrocks]

yes it's possible to change the relief valve without removing anything, relatively easy job.

it will take a while to build oil pressure from a completely dry engine, mite be easier to crank for a while then pour a little oil in filler cap & start the engine for a few seconds.

[ENSMR2]

yes it's possible to change the relief valve without removing anything, relatively easy job.

it will take a while to build oil pressure from a completely dry engine, mite be easier to crank for a while then pour a little oil in filler cap & start the engine for a few seconds.

Like you would know

PMSL Only kidding mate lol.

My mate uses a black engine build paste stuff when engine building. He smears it on all metal to metal surfaces so there is no metal to metal contact when waiting for the oil to go around. Maybe worth using.

[aaronjb]

My mate uses a black engine build paste stuff when engine building. He smears it on all metal to metal surfaces so there is no metal to metal contact when waiting for the oil to go around. Maybe worth using.

Not sure I'd want to actually start the car with just assembly lube, though..

Last time I did a VG30DETT build I didn't pack the oil pump - ended up having to hugely overfill the engine with oil and leave it with the rear on ramps and the front on the ground overnight to let gravity fill the oil pump And that was after quite a bit of cranking!

Though we did hook a pressure bleeder full of oil up to the oil galleries to push oil through them, which is a neat trick if you have access to one (e-z bleed or similar, obviously not one that's full of brake fluid )


Can you spin the oil pump on the 3S by hand (or drill)? What I mean is - is it directly on the crank (like the VG30) or pulley driven? If it's pulley driven then you can always hook a drill up to it and get the oil pump spinning (slowlyish) without cranking the car.

[ENSMR2]

My mate uses a black engine build paste stuff when engine building. He smears it on all metal to metal surfaces so there is no metal to metal contact when waiting for the oil to go around. Maybe worth using.

Not sure I'd want to actually start the car with just assembly lube, though..

Not just with the lube lol. Just used as a precautionary measure etc etc.

[Mark Edwards]

edited!!!

Ignored again then i see.

Probably the most knowledgable person left on here going to waste again, now where's that happened before.

[Grajey]

Looks like the NEW pump is definitely not pumping. No oil is being drawn up the strainer. The pressure relilef valve appears to be OK.

I'll order another oil pump and try again.

[aaronjb]

edited!!!

Ignored again then i see.

Probably the most knowledgable person left on here going to waste again, now where's that happened before.

So because the original poster didn't instantly take Andi's advice to heart (maybe the OP hasn't heard of Andi & doesn't know he's knowledgable? Sometimes people like at least a couple of people to agree before they act, y'know, because not all advice on an internet forum can be trusted if you don't know the poster) he removes his post so that nobody who searches and finds this can take advantage in the future?

[foxy-stoat]

did a rebuild on my GT4...oil light didnt go out...

turn out that i'd put the head gasket on the wrong way round n blocked the oil feed to the head. DOH DOH !!! wont be doing that again !!!

just a thought

[cantfindausername]

I remember reading that just turnign the engine wont build enough pressure to turn off the light.

[Steve Horrocks]

I remember reading that just turnign the engine wont build enough pressure to turn off the light.

hence my post about running the engine for a few seconds. make sure everything is "wet" it should pump enough around soon enough. heard it a few times now.

[Grajey]

Relax guys.

I did scan through the replies and went away to have a look.

Did a bit of this

After a little dismantling/diagnosis I came to the conclusion that the oil pump is not pumping.
Return this evening (car is in my parent's garage) to check thread and discover Andi's post edited.

Don't turn this into a knocking match because all are entitled to opinion. However, I would add that it would have been useful to have had the thread complete because I can't remember his post.

Thanks everyone for your input.

[cantfindausername]

God knows why people edit their posts unless they're duplicates or embarrased about what they've put.

ANyhoo... I've found this

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... sure+light

Hope its of some help to you and that you get it sorted soon.

Ant

[Grajey]

Thanks for that thread.

I was considering removing the cambelt and turning the pump manually.
I shall order another oil pump anyway tomorrow and that will take a couple of days to arrive.

[RaceDesign(NiteraMR2)]

I was thinking the exact same thing right up untill i read the last post.

Making sure the baffle plate and strainer was installed the correct way around was something i drumed into my head the whole time i was rebuilding mine. If there the wrong way around it leaves a gap in the strainer pipe and allows only air to go through the pump, no oil!


BTW ive finished my rebuild now and started it up the day befor yesterday. All is spot on, very proud of myself well for now anyway, got to run it in etc first then ill gradulally raise the boost and revs then see how it goes from there.

Mart
RaceDesign

[Grajey]

Nice one Mart. Must be a good feeling when it all comes together.

Which running-in method are you using? The racebike method or the traditional steady method?

Don't know if REV1 and REV3 are different but I can't see how the baffle and strainer can be fitted incorrectly. The baffle fits round the crank with the extra piece in the lower sump. The strainer is held by 2 nuts and a bolt and from what I can see it only fits one way.

The only other thing I am concerned about now is the HG. Could I have fitted it incorrectly, as suggested by foxy-stoat. When re-fitting I could only see one way that it fitted due to the locating lugs, shape of gasket etc.

Oh well, I'll know more later once I've spun the oil pump manually. Fingers crossed.