Running in oil

[cantfindausername]

Just wonding what make and viscosity oil is recommended for running in a newly built engine.

I tried talking to one of my local motor factors... and let just say I wasn't going to take his word for it.

Thought it best to use a one thats been tried and tested by someone on here.

Anyone able to offer up the information?

Ta,
Ant

[Driftlimits Performance]

something that's not full synth

[cantfindausername]

I know I need non-synthetic, but thats as far as my knowledge goes.

I'm hoping that someone thats run in an engine successfully can post up the sort they used.

[Bender Unit]

I used Halfords boggo mineral oil, nowt special but then its only in there for the run in process. cant remember the grade, just normal motor oil for an engine grade.

As long as its not synth or semi synth then your on the right track.

[cantfindausername]

Closest I could find in my local halfords was 15w/50 mineral oil for pre-1980's cars. It was the blurb about it being a special formula to help protect the engine that put me off.

[AM TUNING]

i always use shell helix 15w40 mineral oil

done it in the last 3 rebuilds ,not all nine just to add

nothing special just a plain oil to allow it to wear

[cantfindausername]

Thanks for the info.

[Fonzy]

This is from TRD

To ensure long life and reliability you must properly break in your freshly assembled engine.

For a high performance street motor fill the engine with a good grade 20W-50 Mineral based oil. Fill the oil filter with oil before installing it. Remove the spark plugs and crank the engine until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge.

Re-install the spark plugs. Now you are ready to start her up. Start the engine and bring it immediately to 2,000 rpm. Vary the engine speed between 2,000 – 3,000 rpm for about 30 minutes. After 30 minutes stop the engine, check the valve lash and re-torque the head bolts. Drain the oil and change the filter. Re-fill the engine with 20W-50 Mineral based oil.

Drive the car slowly for about 500 miles keeping the rpm under 4,000. Don’t lug the engine either because that’s worse for the motor than over revving it. After 500 miles change the oil and filter again. You can now use a synthetic oil if you want to. Use a 20W-50 oil and change it every 3,000 miles. Your engine is now broken in.

For a race engine broken in on the dyno the procedure is a little different. Note that this procedure is for a race clearanced engine.

For the initial run use a Mineral based 20W-50 oil. Run a hotter spark plug than you normally would run. Prime the oil system and the fuel system. Start t6he engine and bring it up to 2,000 – 3,000 rpm with no load. Watch the oil pressure and check for leaks. After 30 minutes stop the motor, check the timing, re-torque the head and check valve lash. Then, run the engine with a light load between 2,000 – 3,000 rpm for another 30 minutes. After 30 minutes change the spark plugs to the normal heat range you are going to run. Do a full throttle full load pull up to the bottom of the power band. Quickly chop the motor.

Check the spark plugs and the BSFC numbers if your dyno is equipped to do so to confirm the jetting. If everything looks good do a full throttle full load pull.

The engine is now ready to race.

[cantfindausername]

hmm... I thought I saw somewhere that you wouldn't get oil pressure unless the engine was started. But if thats from TRD then, I guess they know what they're talking about.

You got a link to where yo got that from please.

Ant

[3S Service Centre]

you can get oil pressure by cranking quite quickly if you have primed the filter and pump, lining the pump with grease also helps alot.

That info came direct from TRD by email some time ago.

James

[ENSMR2]

hmm... I thought I saw somewhere that you wouldn't get oil pressure unless the engine was started. But if thats from TRD then, I guess they know what they're talking about.

You got a link to where yo got that from please.

Ant

ant my mate does the 500 mile 4k thing too.

re oil. I can't tell you more then what andi and james have said above.

My mate also uses this paste stuff. I forgot the name but it is put on all metal to metal surfaces, pistons, cylinder walls etc etc. It keeps things lubed for when you first start the car when there is no oil at those parts. Obviously as TRD says you should crank the engine without plugs etc. Some thing to do with getting the oil round without it starting and running at idle thus possibly causing more damage.

[3S Service Centre]

The idea of cranking without plugs is that due to lack of compression it will crank easier therfor putting less stain on the starter motor, it will also crank a tadge faster and spit the oil round faster.
This is not necessary if its all primed properly you will get pressure in about 7-10 seconds of cranking.

[cantfindausername]

oh right, thanks guys. How do you prime the pump? I gather priming the filter will just be filling it with oil before putting it on, but the pump, I can't see quite how it would be done.

[3S Service Centre]

when putting the pump on line it with grease and fill it with oil

[cantfindausername]

oh right. Simple as that.

I guess a good way to do that would be to put the pick up in a can of oil and turn the pump pulley?

[AM TUNING]

the other thing i always do when building the engine back up,,build it the same as u would but before u put the timing belt on fill it with oil with the new oil filter on,,, the turn the oil pump drive with a 12mm socket and ratchet ,, keep turning till u get oil the cams ,,

that was when u turn the engine over then is never even a split second that it don't have pressure,,

[3S Service Centre]

=D> neat little trick =D>

[cantfindausername]

I'm a little dubious about turning a pulley with the bolt that attaches it. I've had a bolt shear in that scenario before.

I'm going to be using assembly lube, and I'll turn it over with no plugs before starting it.

Oh.. and I just bought some Halford Classic 20W50 motor oil. Hope thats the right stuff. They said it was a basic mineral oil so should do the job. [-o<

[aaronjb]

I know you said you got this some time ago James, but:

confirm the jetting

Carb jetting? Just how long ago did you get it?

Lining the oil pump with grease though - interesting idea - when I did the Nissan I didn't do that.. had to overfill it with oil and sit & wait 24 hours for the oil to percolate up into the oil pump before it would start pumping oil instead of thrashing the air bubble that was in it Must not make that mistake again!

[3S Service Centre]

lol getting old


=D>