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Is there a certain procedure as dont want to damage the engine or anything lathough was fine when parked up. See how it drives then change items as as and when I was told that i'd need to crank it a few times before starting but wasnt sure what they meant by that.Ralliart wrote:Cheers for reply.
It was more of a case of the initial start up I was enquiring about.
- then turn the car over so it can pump fuel, oil and water around without the car firing (possibly!) up. I guess the theory is that apart from moving fluids that you may be able to hear any nasty noises before too much damage is done.+ filter, remove the plugs, pull the EFI fuse to stop fuel pump, turn it over a few times in short bursts of about 5 seconds. then a couple of longer runs if it sounds good of 10s. Started quite a few old 3s engines that have stood and most do ok. of course all of them needed major services before proper use. 
.. - the fuel gauge doesnt work [put 20 litres Vpower and gauge still shows empty]- I noticed 3 out of 4 of the spark plugs / plug holes were covered in oil. These were all cleaned up before fitting new plugs in but alas still not starting up./ pointers appreciated. I did a diagnostic check on it and the engine light flashes continuously as no faults showing./ coil. [best place to buy from?]? Its currently on myu drive so limited access / tool and knowledge 
, But I did mine mid winter ! Get the car as high as you can,and soak all joints and bolts with 3 in 1 or similar.[having been looking it upo and you are right - looks like hard work 
]Ralliart wrote:Any way to confirm whether it is the pump or not before removing the tank
(prob easiest going into the filter then you can check if the filters blocked too and will prob need changing anyway) and stick the end in a bottle. Bridge fp+ and B to run fuel pump constant on ignition and see if anything comes out in the bottle. If it does then change the filter and take out the bridge and see if it comes out, if not then its the fuel pump relay.+b on ignition and could hear a relay clicking in the engine bay. Couldnt hear the fuel pump. OEM is quiet, but not silent. - make sure you have decent compression - cold test so numbers may be below spec which isn't a big deal - what we're looking for is low variance across each cylinder. one plug for fuel gauge sender and one plug for pump power. Have seen the test port method fail before but then direct power to the plug under the ashtray has worked. It's the worst job on the MR2 so avoid if possible. However pumps die a fair bit these days and one that's been stood for ages isn't going to be better. Not so much of an issue if the pump isn't pumping though 
take one plug at a time and hold it against the head (use something non conductive to hold it!) and crank the engine for a second. should see it spark. the threads of the plug need to be in contact with the engine head so they earth. Compression test it if you can. But get the fuel and spark working first. One has 3 pins [small connectors] going to it and the other has 2 pins [larger connectors] Am I right in thinking this is the one for the pump. Was thinking of giving it a direct live to see if I can hear the pump although not sure which wire is live and which is negative. One is blue the other white./ humming sound??Dont just go shoving power into wires you dont know!!!(easiest at filter in connection on the bottom of filter) and see if fuel is coming out. IF not then the pump is goosed.'just in case' it isnt the pump as when Imentioned it to the local garage I use he wasnt keen on changin the pump either.. said its a bas#### of a job 
and he is an MR2 owner aswell