SBITS - Negative feedback

[craig]

Which he would have done if Craig had agreed to him doing the work as advised instead of covering it up with a body kit

Ash, you need to get those rose tinted glasses off and get your head out of Pete's ar$e. Pete went round that shell when I bought it off him, and the only bit that was deemed to require attention was the sill, which I paid to have done, even though it turns out it was a poor repair.

I did not decide to cover up a dodgy sill with a bodykit at all, so get your facts straight.

As far as I was aware, apart from the hole in the sill, the shell was structurally sound. Had I known about the additional extent of repairs that were required, but simply sprayed over with underseal, I would have had them attended to.

As I stated before, which you appear to have duly ignored, is that given, the cost of the repairs required vs the overall cost of this project, I would not have chosen to just cover it up with a bodykit.

As for the welding pics that got removed, I asked Scott to give my thread a prune of all the previous sbits comments. In doing so, the welding pics and following discussions also got deleted. I saw no point in reposting these, as they were merely work in progress pics.

Now, stop relying on false information from other sources and regurgitating your BS on my thread.

Thanks.

[Peter Gidden]

OK, my twopence worth.

Can't quote as i was going to since as usual, posts on this thread come and go, so it'll have to be best i can.

Yes Craig, nearly 5 years ago you came to me wanting "the ultimate MR2 T Bar".

I seem to remember suggesting either:

starting with a mint Rev5 UK car. Stripping it, painting it, and moving everything across from your car.

Or

buying a late turbo and moving everything across from your car, and then selling your car.

Both options expensive.

But instead you chose a shell that had been in my yard for around 5 years. No leaks through the tin tops, but knee deep in mulch from the chestnut trees above it, and more living plants in the frunk than my neighbour's greenhouse. But best of all - it was FOC and on the premises, so no acquisition or transporting costs.

You spent at least 4 or 5 Saturdays stripping it.

We then went round it and discussed what needed doing to it. 3 areas required attention - radiator support panel, mid-sill and rear sill. To save money you paid to have the two areas repaired that had to be done, and decided to leave the rear sill at that time as it wasn't that bad and you were fitting skirts anyway.

You chose that shell (following an inspection one presumes), spent days stripping it, stood around it discussing what needed doing to it, but were unaware there was corrosion on the rear of one sill?

But wait, there's more. Last year's MOT certificate noted the sill corrosion as an advisory.

So in addition to not knowing about the corrosion, are you also claiming you didn't look at your MOT certificate either? In Craig's world, where there is nothing but Craig and a MR2, Craig might believe that, but anyone in the real world that knows Craig, will know that's BS.

Back to the MOT. Now, having known Neil, my MOT tester for at least 10 years, i dare say i could have swayed him into failing that sill, netting me at least half a day's work. But i didn't. I don't interfere with his opinion on any test. And since he never earns the repairs on any car i take to him, the owner of the car is always assured that any allowed discretion will always be of advantage to the owner.

But the new tester you have chosen has decided to fail the sill. His prerogative obviously. Whether there was any financial incentive in his decision i don't know, and i'm certainly not making that suggestion. Whether he was being over harsh, again, i don't know.

All we know is that nearly 5 years after deciding to "sort it later", later has arrived.

So, to the repair. Can be tricky, and on average about 4-5 hours work. Made much easier since the guy in Kent started producing excellent-fitting repair panels at about £70 per side (set of 3).

From what i've heard, you posted picture/s (but i presume have since deleted) of a repair and were questioning it's quality.

Here's a couple of pics of one i did a few weeks ago. Total cost £360 inc. panels, Galvafroid inner sill and Waxoyl cavities :







If your repair looks something close to the pics, then it sounds like a good job.

If it doesn't, then take it back and get it done to your satisfaction.

I really can't see what you're griping and moaning about. You knew that sill was going to need work, and now it does. Few hundred quid, job done. FFS, you've lost more than that on xxxx parts you've bought, fitted, removed and sold in the last year or two.

[craig]

But instead you chose a shell that had been in my yard for around 5 years. No leaks through the tin tops, but knee deep in mulch from the chestnut trees above it, and more living plants in the frunk than my neighbour's greenhouse. But best of all - it was FOC and on the premises, so no acquisition or transporting costs.
.

Keeping to the facts. The car was not free of charge. I paid £150 for it. Don't understand the comment about the frunk, as there is no issue there. The frunk is solid. No rust whatsoever. The car was sat on 4 milk crates boxed in closely by 3 other cars. Sure, there were leaves around the car, but it wasn't sat in 'mulch'.

You spent at least 4 or 5 Saturdays stripping it.

We then went round it and discussed what needed doing to it. 3 areas required attention - radiator support panel, mid-sill and rear sill. To save money you paid to have the two areas repaired that had to be done, and decided to leave the rear sill at that time as it wasn't that bad and you were fitting skirts anyway.

Agreed, I had a few Saturdays on the car while it was boxed in. I disagree though that 3 areas were identified as needing attention. Only 2 were identified. Radiator support panel and mid sill.

Both of these were attended to as a result.

Not once did you advise me of the rear sill, and I certainly didn't avoid rectifying the rear sill to save money. I was unaware of the rear sill. The car was still on the ground and the rear sill profile was all that was a give away, and neither me or you spotted it at the time. I reiterate, again for the 3rd time. I wouldn't scrimp on a cheap repair versus the cost of the project.

I was honestly under the impression that apart from the 2 areas identified, the car was structurally sound. Why on earth would I pay £2500 to have the bare shell fully repainted if there was rust on the sill that I knew about?

The bit that I wasn't bothered about presentation wise was the mid sill patch that you welded in, as this would be covered with a side skirt. I did not suggest covering up the rear sill with a side skirt whatsoever - I didn't know it was an issue at the time!

In fact, it was only recently, I took my skirts off to clean behind them, and noticed the lack of sill profile on the back of the o/s sill. I rang you about it just after spotting it, as the profile was gone, and just a load of underseal covering it. Your response, and I quote:

"Well, you would have questioned why I'd charged you for a repair instead of leaving it, as you were covering it with a side skirt."

But wait, there's more. Last year's MOT certificate noted the sill corrosion as an advisory.

So in addition to not knowing about the corrosion, are you also claiming you didn't look at your MOT certificate either? In Craig's world, where there is nothing but Craig and a MR2, Craig might believe that, but anyone in the real world that knows Craig, will know that's BS.

Back to the MOT. Now, having known Neil, my MOT tester for at least 10 years, i dare say i could have swayed him into failing that sill, netting me at least half a day's work. But i didn't. I don't interfere with his opinion on any test. And since he never earns the repairs on any car i take to him, the owner of the car is always assured that any allowed discretion will always be of advantage to the owner.

But the new tester you have chosen has decided to fail the sill. His prerogative obviously.

Well, I wouldn't know about last years MOT, as you didn't give me the MOT certificate, as you forgot to bring it back from the MOT garage. Still waiting! All you told me, was that:

"a bit of wire brushing was required, we'll do that the next time the car is in the air"

The new MOT tester hasn't failed the sill, as it hasn't gone for one yet, this is simply a result of the inspection from YVS.

I really can't see what you're griping and moaning about. You knew that sill was going to need work, and now it does. Few hundred quid, job done. FFS, you've lost more than that on xxxx parts you've bought, fitted, removed and sold in the last year or two.

I simply reported my findings from YVS, but it appears one of your minions felt the need to constantly pepper my thread with bs - supposedly posting on your behalf about something that has absolutely nothing to do with him, and doesn't know the facts.

Not bothered about money lost on parts, that's my prerogative, and of no relevance to your post. The welding, I'm getting done, and the car will shortly have a fresh MOT.

Thanks for your input.

[craig]

At least you got a subframe bolt he forgot to put mine back after lowering the car haha and told the clunking noise was suspension settling

Or the recon steering rack that was that stiff you could set the steering and
Let it drive round in circles on its own.and told it needs bedding in wtf

Or the last of many alternators fitted where he told me "who ever changed this before has butchered the wiring" I thought that was you!! lmfao

Could go on but I won't and before peters sycophants start don't bother
Please he's not fit/safe to work on skateboards!!!!!

Sorry for posting this on your thread crag but reading all th bs pi$$ed me off
I had to say something ttfn

No worries mate. In addition to your list, on my car, as result of his work:

1. Drop link left undone, resting on anti-roll bar

2. Loose engine mount bolts following the rebuilding of the T bar project, causing an awful knocking noise, which he charged me 2 hours labour to diagnose and rectify, even though it was his fault they were loose in the first place!

3. As found by YVS - finger tight front arm bolts.

4. Brake pedal pivot bolt 14mm nut missing entirely, allowing the brake pedal to move left and right. Just what you need on the mountain roads in the Pyrenees! Had to borrow a 14mm nut from the rear suspension strut. Luckily it was found early on in the trip.

5. He got locked out of the car, so drilled a 2p sized hole in the metalwork behind the center panel. I questioned this, and he told me it must have already been there when the shell was in the yard. A quick look at the shell pics I took, and nope, no hole. "Oh it must have been my apprentice then" Actually Peter, do you want a 3rd guess since someone witnessed you drilling the hole yourself?

6. Following my £2500 respray, he opened the door into an engine block and tried to keep quiet about it, but our lass spotted it. Offered to sort it, never did.

The list probably goes on, but those are the ones fresh in my mind. In hindsight, I wish I'd never taken on this project. I wish I'd never commissioned sbits to carry out the work, and I certainly haven't got out of it, what I paid for.

Onwards and upwards though eh? Isn't hindsight great?

More shocking findings from YVS.....

Bit of history. As this shell was previously a breaker, Peter had used the n/s/f chassis leg to repair a different MR2's crash damaged front end. This was not a problem, as there were plenty of other breakers to rob another chassis leg off.

However, considering I paid Peter to jig up and weld the chassis leg to my car and seal it, it appears the job was never finished.

Here is a picture of said chassis leg from underneath with absolutely no weld in place along the bottom whatsoever. Just completely missing:





Shocking. This has now been rectified, as it should have been the first time round.

In addition to the above, the sill patch that Peter welded in. I mentioned before that the repair was poor. Well these pictures speak for themselves:









The weld is peppered with holes along the underside of the panel. As a result, this has started to rust.

There is light at the end of the tunnel though. All of this bodgery has been rectified, and today the car has just gone straight through an MOT.

Huge thanks go to YVS.

Next job is to sort the snapped off driveshaft support bracket bolt, and at the same time, find out why Peter has packed out the subframe bolt with 3 washers.

[craig]

First off, thanks to pistol pete for sorting out my build thread and moving the relevant bits to trader feedback. Appreciated mate.

Right. Few updates.

First off, this:



This has been investigated. The reason for the 3 washers is simple. It's a bodge. The subframe bolt is cross threaded and will only tighten so far. So Peter has used 3 washers to pack it out.

Next up. Another finding which is outright dangerous:



This is the n/s/r arm. Notice the 2mm angle grinded slot straight through the bracket?

Presumably, an attempt to cut off a stuck bolt, but ended up going through the bracket instead. Basically, there is now nothing stopping the rear arm tearing through the bracket, and is only held in by the clamping force of the nut.



I can't say whether Peter made this cut or it was already there. However, given the fact, my polybushed rear arms were transferred from my tintop when the car was built, the fact that Peter would have seen this cut in the bracket and done nothing about it is simply shocking.

More finger tight bolts were also found with the seats that were fitted by sbits. Seems to be a common theme here!

It's quite unnerving that I've done 3 Le Mans trips through the Pyrenees with a rear arm which could potentially rip through the bracket, and a brake pedal pivot bolt nut missing allowing the brake pedal to move left and right.

Absolutely shocking. I have to say, I won't let Peter Gidden anywhere near my car again, simply due to the issues above, and because I don't trust him one bit anymore.