Track car setup.

[Dave_1987]

Hi. I have recently bough my first Mr2. Its a rev5 3s ge. I bought it cheap to use a track car. Since buying it i have done trackdays at Croft, Oulton and im back at Croft on good friday. I have been very impressed with its capabilities and reliability after being told they dont handle and spin out very easily. It has Tein coilovers all round with the adjustable front top mounts and Toyo R888s and a few other modifications. I was wondering if anyone could help with some specs for toe, caster and camber. I have always built fwd drive cars for track use but with the Mr2 being mid engined it will behave differently when cornering. If anyone could help me with what works best and advice for setting it up or any other tips i would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance Dave.

[2barGee]

i'll find a picture of my current set up mate which i find nice on track.

I love the fact that people say they don't handle very well

[2barGee]

Here you go mate

[monkeyra]

That says it's for a scooby?

[Dave_1987]

Thanks for the reply. It does say its for a scooby ?. Yeah i was pleasantly suprized after reading about people saying they were a handfull to drive and have a bad reputation for spinning out and once they start to go you cant catch it. I found it handled well and was very managable when it let go.

[2barGee]

That says it's for a scooby?

Well spotted, i had my impreza set up at the same place

Correct one now added

[Dave_1987]

Thanks. Thats very similar to what iv set mine to. Now i have seen yours i know im somewhere near. People seem to run 3+ degrees of camber on the front which i was unsure if it was a bit overkill. Mid engined cars dont usually have lots of front camber.

[2barGee]

Thanks. Thats very similar to what iv set mine to. Now i have seen yours i know im somewhere near. People seem to run 3+ degrees of camber on the front which i was unsure if it was a bit overkill. Mid engined cars dont usually have lots of front camber.

Yeah that much camber would kill tyres off on the road pretty quickly. I guess you could try it if it's just a track car and see how it feels.

[SonicSW20]

Here you go mate


Image Replaced With URL For Quote [url]http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z211/Gee_Man-23/IMG_20170322_195735.jpg[/URL]

Am I reading that right, 42 minutes total toe in at the rear? Seems quite high?

[Race Idiot]

I've been running around -2 on the front. But it looks like I should've checked clearances as the sidewall was coming into contact with my coilovers

Ordered some 5mm hubcentric spacers and extended studs

[SonicSW20]

Yeah, I'm at about -2deg all round on mine. For a little while I had ~1.5 degrees more camber at the front than the back (mistake when putting the car back together after having the rear subframe off), and I really didn't like it, shifted the balance of the car massively to oversteer and not a in a good way!

Race Idiot - spacers might not be necessary, sometimes you can obtain the clearance required by adding a little bit of positive camber at the hub (most coilovers have a bit of adjustment via slotted holes where it mounts to the hub), and compensating by adding more negative camber at the top mount. Obviously depends on widths and offsets of the front wheel etc.

[2barGee]

Here you go mate


Image Replaced With URL For Quote [url]http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z211/Gee_Man-23/IMG_20170322_195735.jpg[/URL]

Am I reading that right, 42 minutes total toe in at the rear? Seems quite high?

Yeah mate that's correct. Helps when braking. The place that set it up are a race team essentially. Awesome place but really expensive

[SonicSW20]

Yeah mate that's correct. Helps when braking. The place that set it up are a race team essentially. Awesome place but really expensive

Fair enough!

[Race Idiot]

Yeah, I'm at about -2deg all round on mine. For a little while I had ~1.5 degrees more camber at the front than the back (mistake when putting the car back together after having the rear subframe off), and I really didn't like it, shifted the balance of the car massively to oversteer and not a in a good way!

Race Idiot - spacers might not be necessary, sometimes you can obtain the clearance required by adding a little bit of positive camber at the hub (most coilovers have a bit of adjustment via slotted holes where it mounts to the hub), and compensating by adding more negative camber at the top mount. Obviously depends on widths and offsets of the front wheel etc.

My coilovers didn't come with topmounts and re-used my trd ones. So all adjustment was done from those slotted holes! If this doesn't work out maybe I'll end up getting some adjustable ones.

[Dave_1987]

Thanks for the replies. Very helpfull. Its best using tried a tested settings rather than guessing and getting it wrong.