Alternator super seized, do I need to drop the subframe????

[jack2019]

HI, guys, I'm looking for some advice / wisdom with removing the alternator from the car, '98 N/A.

I've found the alternator to be seized solid. As in the alternator has seized to the mount and will not pivot around the pivot bolt, which is also seized. I've been trying for a while to break the corrosion with plus gas but to no avail. I've actually broken the alternator casing rather than the corrosion, so no exchange on a new one for me....

I think my next step is removing the alternator AND mount as one from the car, as the mount nuts and bolts seem to be free enough. The only way I can see to do this is to drop the subframe.

My question is: Has anyone else been in a similar situation?

If so, is dropping the subframe the only way or did you manage to get it out a simpler way, bearing in mind that the alternator has seized in the tensioned position so the overall OD of the combined two parts is fairly large and cant be adjusted.

I'm going to undo the mount over the weekend and try and move it around the engine bay and see where I can get with it. You never know, there might be a gap..?..!!?

[Ginjaninja92]

That is quite a pickle! I hate the everything about the alternators on these cars, squeaking etc.

Anyhoo, I would imagine you will have to remove either the crossmember, the driveshaft, or the exhaust mid section.

Its hard to get the alternator out without the bracket! Good luck with!

[outrun]

Remove the exhaust B pipe and the mount that bolts to the subframe, then you can remove or install the alternator.
No need to drop the subframe.

There is a reasonable amount of space, if you get it in the right place, so you may be able to extract the alt and bracket as one.

[mr2magic]

I know that the USDM turbo has a bolt that mounts the bracket to the block which is behind the alt so no chance of removing everything in one go. Whether this applies to UK spec cars i cannot say - just something to take into consideration

[mr2garageswindon]

I know that the USDM turbo has a bolt that mounts the bracket to the block which is behind the alt so no chance of removing everything in one go. Whether this applies to UK spec cars i cannot say - just something to take into consideration

Pretty sure they are all the same. Its gonna be a pig to do. I'd be inclined to try get a 1mm cutting disc to cut through the pivot bolt between the alt and the bracket both sides and lever it out.

[jack2019]

Thanks for the replies guys.

In the end the bolt came free. I used some bolt freeze stuff, called super crack ultra, sounds like quite a night out I know but I assure you its not a class A drug.

Overall I think a combination of a single hex socket (as to not round the bolt) using Plus gas over a week or so and finally trying that freeze stuff allowed the bolt to come free without too much hassle.

Still had to hammer at the alternator to move it though, as it was an extremely tight fit in the mount. I don't look forward to getting the new one in.

I managed to get the alternator out of the top of the engine bay, although the mount had to be removed, fortunately I was able to remove the mount as well from under the car to repaint it.

Hopefully after getting all the rust off, degreasing the parts, repainting and reassembling with ensis oil should reduce that amount of corrosion appearing again.

mr2magic, you are correct. There is a very badly placed bolt in the centre of the mount right behind the alternator. Suffice to say, that bolt will not be going back in just incase a similar situation occurs. I'm sure the surrounding 4 nuts and bolt will suffice for the forseeable.

Again, thanks for the insight.