Quick list for the key things to walk away from a purchase (tubby)

[Racer7]

Hello,

I know there's lots of stuff about this stuff but I wanted to get it in an easy read format.

Going to look at a tubby. Just wanted to check the main things that mean I should walk away (trying not to be swayed by heart on these things is quite difficult )

• Head gasket failiure - identified by mayo like residue under oil cap?

is there any other way to identify this?

• bottom ends - I've seen this mentioned a lot but don't really know what it is and how to check

• rear sills - physical check for rust

• off colour/wonky panels - potential signs of repair

Essentially the top three I understand are the main walk away signs. Is that correct?

Also - am I right in saying that there isn't much you can do to verify mileage if there is no Japanese history (other than the MOT service intervals from it's UK life)?

I know one of the 'strut has slight play in the sliding bush or gland (2.5.B.1b)' as an advisory - nothing to worry about i hope?

Cheers!

[sp00n]

you can go on the dvla's website and view all the old MOT's from any car now, you just need the reg and reg document number (iirc)

but dont forget some cars may have the milage in KM's not miles, and if its a untouch import its likly to be KM's

[Racer7]

you can go on the dvla's website and view all the old MOT's from any car now, you just need the reg and reg document number (iirc)

but dont forget some cars may have the milage in KM's not miles, and if its a untouch import its likly to be KM's

Yep, roger that.

That history checker has helped me loads in the past. Can help build a picture of the cars life. It's how I know about the strut.

Hear you on the KMs just now need to know about the engine stuff.

[4ndee]

Check the water level cold then run to temperature. Remember mayo under the cap can just be condensation. Ensure the car stays at normal temp. Check for knocking when you rev it. Abduct check for smoke on idle and under load. Run through all the gears on a drive for no syncro crunch. Panels may have been changed not neccicerily a bad thing remember there not new cars. Do a check when you arrive either text check or dvla from the log book.

[toxo]

The only special thing to look for on a turbo over an NA is that you don't get blue smoke on liftoff and that it builds boost properly.

I suppose you could also look at whether any of the vac pipes have been played with as evidence of previously having had a boost controller & been run at high levels of boost.

Also see http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/kb.php?mode=article&k=49

[Racer7]

Thanks toxo. Could you elaborate on boosts up properly. What should out be like from foot to floor in relation to the gauge (standard).

Also with the blue smoke I thought it was from just turning the car on. Do you mean doing a standing, floored start and looking in rear view?

Test drive tomorrow so will see what the crack is.

[Torero]

HMMM, what are you planning Tris? A conversion or are you selling the rev 5?

[toxo]

Thanks toxo. Could you elaborate on boosts up properly. What should out be like from foot to floor in relation to the gauge (standard).

Also with the blue smoke I thought it was from just turning the car on. Do you mean doing a standing, floored start and looking in rear view?

Test drive tomorrow so will see what the crack is.

Stock boost gauge should go up 80-90% in 1st and 2nd and off the end of the scale in 3rd upwards. Basically, pulls hard to the redline with no stutters or misfires. Unless it's modified, don't let the seller tell you it's "hitting fuel cut" if it does stutter because unmodified it won't (unless you're test driving it at -2 degrees in which case you're very brave).

Turning on blue smoke is valve stem seals, that applies to any car. Blue smoke after using the turbo (not during, so when you lift off) is turbo oil seals.

[leary123]

yer i was stupid enough to buy a rev 3 turbo without checking for smoke.the car had mint bodywork and generally in very good order. but on the test drive i never botherd to look behind to look for any smoke afterwards or do a standing test. car still pulled as well it should but when driving the thing home somone pointed out the blue smoke from behind.

had to get a spare turbo from IMOC for 275 and then change it.. in a postive way it was easier to drop the engine out to change it so i while i was there i changed all the gaskets/igntition compents/pumps/belts/fluids.

minus a leaking power steering rack which i changed. i have had faultess driving for a year now

but i would never buy any other car again without checking for smoke.