rev 2 turbo advice

[benson]

Hi, I'm looking at purchasing a mr2 turbo and been looking on here now for the last few months so I'm reasonably clued up with what I want. Just got a couple more questions that I was hoping someone could help with.

Initially I was after a rev 3 turbo...this was after having driven a standard rev 2 and a rev 3 and to be honest the rev 3 felt a fair bit quicker, there didnt seem to be a sudden jolt when the turbo kicks in and its a bit more progressive, and also it holds boost for a bit longer; I think I'm correct in saying this is all pretty normal and due to the two cars having different turbos?

I've been keeping an eye on pistonheads and its obviously cheaper getting a rev 2. Now I'm beginning to change my mind as I think I could probably be more picky (the rev 3s seem to sell much quicker) and get a better deal. Also I quite like the idea of saving a few hundred and then do a few bits and pieces myself.

How easy/expensive would it be to get rev 3 turbo characteristics from a rev 2? Is it as easy as bolting on the different turbo from the rev 3 and remapping? Sorry if this is a dumb question but I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to turbos and I cant seem to find the answers searching.

I'd be quite happy with rev 3 power i.e. 240hp....I'm guessing thats quite easily obtainable on a rev 2 with not too much money???

Also, I'd really be looking for something that has been running standard power, and not had the boost whacked up and just been stripped and then sold as a standard car. Is there any easy way of knowing whether something like a boost controller has been installed and then taken off?

Thanks in advance

[kev_mr2]

A Rev 3 is pretty much a Rev2 with the CT20b and a few body changes and different ECU setup.

The CT20b seems to hold boost longer than the CT26 and it runs at a few more PSI aswell on the Rev 3.

The Rev 3 doesnt use the airflow meter like the Rev 2 either so its a good benefit.

Me personally, would spend a bit more and get a good Rev 3 because to get the same characteristics out a Rev 2 will need a CT26 hybrid or a CT20 and then, maybe not so much but a Rev 3 ECU conversion just to get rid of the crappy airflow meter setup

Not sure if im right but the Rev 2 didnt come with lsd's either where as the Rev 3 does?

[chrisrev2gt]

like kev said get a ct20, rev3 ecu, injectors, ignitor and coil that should be your lot but some rev2s did come with a lsd but as an optional extra hope this helps

[benson]

cheers guys if I do go for a rev 2 any ideas how much all of that is likely to cost?

Also can anyone advise if there is any way of knowing whether a tubby has been run at high boost or is it just a case of taking the owners word for it?

[kev_mr2]

A CT20b can go from 200 upwards for a good one on here, not too sure to be exact.

The rev3 ecu conversion will be around 200 to 250 to get ALL the parts below.

Rev 3 loom
inlet and manifold temp sensors
map sensor
igniter (coil is same as rev 2)
injectors
ECU
02 sensor (4 wire)

do this aswell as the turbo and a steel headgasket and you can run around 17 psi and make a good bhp figure.

As for the boost pressure, never take the previous owners word for it. always check the usual signs yourself ie turbo shaft play and for blue smoke.

One last thing worth mentioning. The CT20's standard bearing shaft is prone to breaking when higher boost pressure is put through it so keep that in mind

[marc GT Turbo]

would just like to point out ! rev 1 and 2 turbo's have more mid range torque than rev 3's ( pull harder in other words) i run a rev 2 with a hybrid ct 26 turbo ,running 1 bar of boost and it pulls all the way to redline i havent had any issues what so ever with the "crappy air flow meter" set up . if your going to want massive hp gains the afm is at its limit of fueling at 1.1 bar though.

[Andytoyota]

Personally mate, I would save just a tad longer and lose yourself the hassle of having to swap all the stuff over, what you'd spend on the extra mods is probably what you could get a Rev3 for anyway. Just my thoughts

The CT20's standard bearing shaft is prone to breaking when higher boost pressure is put through it so keep that in mind

Never heard of this before, I know lots of guys including myself that run 17psi through the 20b and not have this happen, usually they will still fail in the same way (oil seals etc.) if you run the normal pressure through it, possibly a tad quicker though if your constantly running above 1bar.

[jimGTS]

Save yourself the hassle and just get a rev3.
They came with not only the things mentioned above, but better pistons, better cams, larger throttle body and inlet manifold. Slightly better exhaust manifold, metal headgasket as standard. Better ecu with fueling maps up to 19psi. Colourcoded sidestrips.
To name but a few more things.

I for one owned a rev2. And did the whole rev3 ecu conversion, car ran like crap top end. noone I know on here is just running a rev3 ecuu conversion, everyone like me needed to go to a standalone ecu setup and mapping. Again an additional 600+. tho I made great power after all that.

Seriously. Just save a bit more.

[RobCrezz]

would just like to point out ! rev 1 and 2 turbo's have more mid range torque than rev 3's ( pull harder in other words) i run a rev 2 with a hybrid ct 26 turbo ,running 1 bar of boost and it pulls all the way to redline i havent had any issues what so ever with the "crappy air flow meter" set up . if your going to want massive hp gains the afm is at its limit of fueling at 1.1 bar though.

You sure about that?

I have never seen a ct26 make more torque than a ct20b.

[marc GT Turbo]

would just like to point out ! rev 1 and 2 turbo's have more mid range torque than rev 3's ( pull harder in other words) i run a rev 2 with a hybrid ct 26 turbo ,running 1 bar of boost and it pulls all the way to redline i havent had any issues what so ever with the "crappy air flow meter" set up . if your going to want massive hp gains the afm is at its limit of fueling at 1.1 bar though.

You sure about that?

I have never seen a ct26 make more torque than a ct20b.

i bet it was re mapped though

[jimGTS]

rev1/2 do make more torque on stock turbos Vs rev3s, "most" of the time.

[kev_mr2]

Personally mate, I would save just a tad longer and lose yourself the hassle of having to swap all the stuff over, what you'd spend on the extra mods is probably what you could get a Rev3 for anyway. Just my thoughts

The CT20's standard bearing shaft is prone to breaking when higher boost pressure is put through it so keep that in mind

Never heard of this before, I know lots of guys including myself that run 17psi through the 20b and not have this happen, usually they will still fail in the same way (oil seals etc.) if you run the normal pressure through it, possibly a tad quicker though if your constantly running above 1bar.

Below is a quote from fensport, and ive heard this alot aswell. never experienced it though.

For Revison 3, 1994 on cars the CT20B series turbo have 1 common problem - the turbine shaft is prone to breaking - therefore our uprated stage 1 & 2 CT20 turbos are fitted with a larger steel turbine shaft.

[Andytoyota]

Fair play, sounds a bit like clever marketing to me though, i stand to be corrected tho!

[JJ]

Just to clear the turbo issue out.. its right across the board with the CT-series turbos !

The issue is the ceramic turbine... a little wear and tear, usually influenced by high boosting allows the shaft to develop wear.... this in turn allow shaft play which allows the ceramic wheel to make contact with the housing, where it then shatters.

Those rebuilt hybrids or UK spec GT4's has steel turbines fitted, so all they're going to experience is a little wear on the housing too where the turbine has caught the housing.

I've had complete engine failure from this which is why I can share my experiences... Not justa turbo replacement, smashed pistons, damaged cylinder liners, multiple cracks on the crank, damage to the head... and all this from a truely well maintained engine.

Some turbo failures dont even affect the engine, some like mine absolutely abliterate it !!

Moving on... Rev 2 V's Rev 3.... ( not again !! )

Theres many benefits to the rev 3 engine which is around the engine management, which can be transposed onto the rev 1/2... The earlier Rev 1/2's do provide a better kick with a stronger torque delivery ( smaller turbo, big port head ) whereas the Rev 3 does pull to the redline and has pretty conservative fuel economy too !!