[Mk2] [NA] Why do I end up warping the discs again!

[Vindezal]

When I break lately the car seems to go stop go stop till I break-nothing seviere at all but just in early stages. Break pedal not vibrating yet but Christ! Why do these things pop up at these times!

Any ideas. I think the discs especially are 35k old ish.

Reason I mention is that this has happend before. grr They dont just go thin and crusty instead.

[Martin F]

could be many things other than warped discs mate, seized piston or sliders, rust build up on the discs, worn pads etc, need to examine them to determine the fault

[greeny]

When you changed the disks did you clean the hubs up with a wire brush and copper grease aswell?

[marcnoonan]

Maybe you're just like me and thrash the f*** out of the car when you drive it?

I managed to warp 2 sets of drilled and grooved? Problem it seemed was me having too much fun!

Cheers

Marc

[Vindezal]

Maybe you're just like me and thrash the f*** out of the car when you drive it?

I managed to warp 2 sets of drilled and grooved? Problem it seemed was me having too much fun!

Cheers

Marc

I like to think that ha ha never got on with the rears as they always squeaked when i breaked (werent oem). Yep will have to investigate

[steve b]

If brakes are not binding on and cooking then the only other ways to warp them are by spending too long on the brakes or coming in off a track and putting your handbrake on. By this I mean when they should be standing on them short and sharp instead are pushing on them not very hard and for longer than they should be.


Stock MR2 SW20 rev 2+ brakes won't warp if used properly. If they did warp all the race cars would have knightmare as they all run stock discs with uprated pads and racing on track is massively harder on brakes than any other use.

[marcnoonan]

Too true Steve,

"Stock MR2 SW20 rev 2+ brakes won't warp if used properly. "

I'm on Rev1, but through experience have found that patten parts aren't as good as Mr T's so might be down to the false economy of buying ebay/cheaper stuff.

Cheers

Marc

[raptor95GTS]

discs don't warp - they get uneven pad disposits left on the surface of the disc hence the run out issues. See steve b post above for how that can happen

[MrGazz2]

I know I'll be laughed off the forum but in my old Fiesta, if left to stand to long the rust would stop the brakes from working properly - made them really noise ect. It just need me to get the car up to speed and brake pretty hard a couple of times to free them up again...

Could be something similar perhaps? Just another suggestion.

[Vindezal]

change of pads? and re lube the sliders again? They do go clonk when i first turn the car on (pressing the break pedal) for the first time.

Would be great if someone local showed me how to do all this stuff than take it to a garage.

[going4the1]

'Clonking' brakes is not really a problem. This is caused by a missing pad support clip. If the clip is missing the pads slam against the pad carrier. You will probably be able to make the same noise if you immediately reverse and hit the brakes.

See:

http://www.mr2turbo.info/pics/frontbrake.html


Even if they are all present and correct - you will still get a clonk even if the backing tab is missing (see the third picture - that black square this sometimes corrodes away)