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I was going to pressure test the IC (with a home made thing like I saw on another thread) as I can't guarantee that I didn't break it putting it in. I have a spare intercooler in my shed, so I could plumb that one in."I'm intrigued by the nozzle from the turbo-IC pipe as I'm pretty sure I don't have one.". its the feed for the a/c vsv on the rev 3... which I think you've accounted for in the feed to the vac pipe ( afm to turbo ).. manifold first... pressurise it, see if theres any leaks..... and pull one of the nozzles off and stick some air through it....( noise )?! Get a fitting off it and do it that way ! 
|| S256SX Airwerks Powered MR2 Turbo || V10 BMW M5 ||(like the kind you can use for DIY car spraying), will that do?(or should I block up the exhaust too)? Or should I stoip being lazy and get the thing off the car? 
'dummy' run in the car (it's up on stands, so I just went through the gears so the ECU t hought the car was moving despite no load - visions of Ferris Bueller 
) Is this bad? When I squeeze the turbo to IC pipe, it is soft when not revving, then gioes hard as the boost comes in, and then goes soft again once the revs drop. I expected this would be the case, but if the pipe is noticabley getting hard, surely there isn't a major leak in the intake system?+ loom + diagnostic port supports a diagnostic datastream mode.(Your local Toyota garage will have one) and the data mode allows the mechanic to monitor loads of things to check for faults. It's pretty basic and only refreshes at a 1 second rate but it is a useful party trick these ECUs support... This is the kind of thing you can check via the ECU datastream. I think the smoking of my turbo is actually the downpipe which is lagged with some kind of heat resistant cloth, so I don't think I'll be catching fire............. Is it likely that this would cause the car to constantly over-fuel?JJ wrote:
Thinking straight, its a rev 3 thing.
You should try doing a pressure test on the whole intake system
Alternatively, pull the hose off the back of the afm, see if you can wedge it shut.
It'll save you trying to find a leak whilst the engine is running
Know any mates with compressed bottled air
(or anyone else in the know), I think I've found my air leak, but it's in a really weird place. Had to prop the AFM to keep the car running and get under the car to check for leaks from the exhaust (I've done the BGB test of ALL of the ECU terminals, which only flagged one particular issue, the Oxygen sensor doesn't report any voltage when it is supposed to). This led me to check the exhaust for leaks (as per the flowchart in the BGB), and as soon as I got my head under there, it was like a wind tunnel from a hole between the engine and gearbox (see pics)
.. with the fly spinning around it will cause some air movement, and will escape through that hole(oh, and Cheers Dale )Shmed wrote:JJ, would my injector resistor pack cause any issues as to how much fuel is being put in? I had to re-wire it as it had been cut off.
.. server issues I guess....... you're simply sticking power to the injectors ( low impedance type hence resistors ), then the ecu is earth switching them... it is the gearbox bell housing..... see if you can get a correct voltage to each pin out.... If you've rewired the AFM up wrong for example, it wont throw an error code... but still misbehave...... could be worth getting 4 small spades and a set of wires, disconnecting the AFM connector and piggy backing the wires to the ecu just in case theres a short in the actual loom.???!! The Rev 3 ecu is map sensor driven, so if you have any air leaks on the induction.. ( unless in the manifold ) it wont affect the running of the engine.... Just a thought... its not quite rectifying it.... but if its been converted, it maybe unknown whats been cut and joined ??!!|| S256SX Airwerks Powered MR2 Turbo || V10 BMW M5 ||(what sort of tolerances are there?) The BGB says to check the VE1 terminal (from memory) against a known good earth, which also produces no voltage. It then says to check for leaks in the exhaust (which I have a few little ones), that's when I thought I'd found the air leak and stopped looking.(it is red on mine and I think it should be black 
), it also seems to work in the opposite to what the BGB says (i.e. when the AC is on, the voltage is 0 and when it is off it says 12v - or the other way round, I can't remember, but I know it is the opposite of what the book tells me)... doesn't seem anything wrong there.. though i know a duff water temp sensor can give you overfuelling issues...... can you just not disconnect it for the time being ?!?!( if you have one ) wont affect the 02 reading that much... car should still run and idle.. even without one. AFM sounds right, tolences are fine...... I've never really seen ecu's play up if I'm honest, it either works or it doesnt, doesn't start coming up with faults.. then having said that, if you've originally just plugged it in with the old wiring, you may have fried the of circuit ??!! Difficult to tell... !! Let me see if I can find it tonight ! || S256SX Airwerks Powered MR2 Turbo || V10 BMW M5 || I didn't actually have to make changes to the wiring in the end, so I'm not sure what had happened to the car in the past. Like I say, I know it had a MAT sensor fitted, and at the very least a boost controller (if not a PowerFC). (or get someone else to look at my mechanical timing in case I have misjudged it). I was planning to do the engine up over the next year and just run the rev 2 this summer.(but not rail) and sourcing an ECU right? For the hell of it what not rip the dizzy, coil, ignitors whatever out and stick some COPS on at the same time.'02 VX220 2.2 n/a Daily driver - Exige Size TD 1.2 - TAT shorty Diffuser - HardTop - Chris Tullet 4-1 Manifold.'97 mk1 Mazda Eunos Turbo track car with 260bhp/ton - soon more as Chris Wilsons going to build me an engine over the winter 
) . I guess the fact that it revs up tells me it is fine inside. Shmed wrote:I guess the fact that it revs up tells me it is fine inside.
COPS?!?!
A cracked ringland the car will drive perfect until on boost when it'll pressurize the bottom end and p1$$ oil everywhere it shouldn't be. Some cheeky b'stards try to pass it off as failed turbo when selling the cars on. I run 1ZZFE ones from the MR-S on my Mazda engine.
'02 VX220 2.2 n/a Daily driver - Exige Size TD 1.2 - TAT shorty Diffuser - HardTop - Chris Tullet 4-1 Manifold.'97 mk1 Mazda Eunos Turbo track car with 260bhp/ton - soon more as Chris Wilsons going to build me an engine over the winter ) . All I really want to do though, is get the car running so I can have some fun over the summer. All things like this can go on my new engine I'll be building for next year.