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HT wrote:
Exactly what I'd like to achieve! Looked at the one's on two'r'us and seem mega hard for road applications
:th: Doing the front alone wasn't too bad only slight vibration, I had the rear mount off the other day and it seems a lot softer ( ie more give ) than the standard front, so I think that just doing the rear may give better results.Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
- like you said if you have to do it once a year so be it!!!!!!...where to find that rear mount 
jimi wrote:HT wrote:
Exactly what I'd like to achieve! Looked at the one's on two'r'us and seem mega hard for road applications
Let me know what you try and the results, save duplication.
I fitted both front and rear mounts but found the @ idle vibration excessive, so I have modified the front mount as in the picture below, which has removed virtually all the vibration. 500 miles on and it's still in one piece.
..But When I'm Very Very Old!
..poly mounts...dont know why but the sound of the car is much better and i could really feel the difference in acceleration... Becarefull with these mounts if theyre too rigid they will crack the chassis due to transmitting too much load.Sorry to bring this topic up again.cartledge_uk wrote:Just be carefull doing the self fill method.
If you track your car or are very hard on it they are too stiff and can cause problems.
Had an engine blow because of them
.. The mounts off the old track car are also knackered. So was going to refurb/rebuild/fill the old car's mounts and fit them to the replacement track car...| 99 528i SE Touring | 01 Mandarin VX220 I used a bag of poly from RS recommend by Woodsport but had to drill holes in to take away the vibration.- jimi, do you have a long-term conclusion on your DIY mounts, and whether you need to do both F and R or just one? 
(Bahnstormer) | 2004 RX8 231 (the Racecat) | 2001 Volvo V70 (Swedish eBay barge)| 1988 MR2 SC Super Edition& Chris, I drilled a few holes in each to allow for some flexibility as the felt wey too tight without the holes.~ 1year on: Engine note also sounds more "raw" (in a nice way 
). The engine also feels a little more responsive (but this could just be in my head 
)~ 3000 track miles too. Best mod for the money so far | 99 528i SE Touring | 01 Mandarin VX220 Did you do all three engine mounts? And I assume you just drilled holes throught the sealant and not the original rubber as well?(Bahnstormer) | 2004 RX8 231 (the Racecat) | 2001 Volvo V70 (Swedish eBay barge)| 1988 MR2 SC Super Edition(front & rear). I drilled additional holes through the original rubber before pouring the polythane into the mount. This was to ensure I got sufficient polythane on both sides of the mount and to bond securely to the existing rubber. You need to lay the mount on it side and seal the underside so it doesn't leak all over the place.| 99 528i SE Touring | 01 Mandarin VX220 (Bahnstormer) | 2004 RX8 231 (the Racecat) | 2001 Volvo V70 (Swedish eBay barge)| 1988 MR2 SC Super Edition Just a quick "How-To" Clean up the engine mount thoroughly making sure there no oily deposits anywhere and no loose grit or grime. Drill out some holes to allow the ploythane to filter through to the other side. You'll see what I mean later on.
Seal up the one side of the mount. I used gaffer tape.
Balance the mount/s so they are level (ish)
Remove polythane from packaging and mix as directed.
Pour polythane mix into mounts. You'll see here the importance of drilling through the original mounts. Don't worry when the polythane cures, it's pretty solid and sticks to virtually anything. 
Drill holes in original mount were too small so had to fill from reverse side once cured. This also cost another pack of polythane from RS Components ](./images/smilies/eusa_wall.gif "Brick wall"){kind=small}
Follow the curing proceedure in the instructions. As I used tape to seal the underside of the mount, I just left it to cure overnight. But IIRC, the instructions say to bake the polythane.& packing
Drill holes to allow the centre spigot to move a little. My holes are off centre andprobably not big enough, ho hum 
Clean up any over-spill. I had to cut it away with a stanley knife. Refit to engine.| 99 528i SE Touring | 01 Mandarin VX220'how to' Garrick, thanks a lot 
(Bahnstormer) | 2004 RX8 231 (the Racecat) | 2001 Volvo V70 (Swedish eBay barge)| 1988 MR2 SC Super Edition| 99 528i SE Touring | 01 Mandarin VX220classic mk1 wrote:Have you got a link for the ebay ones, i brought the 2s r us ones which i had to drill.
Although, somebody on MR2OC said it was because the worned out side mounts were neglected and so it would cause the motor to slightly twist putting to much load on the front and back causing them to rip out. And if you guys have rust under there. I wouldn't put any stiffer mounts unless its been inspected to make sure its safe. I couldn't for the life of me work out how to order the polyurethane from RS, it kept asking me which company I was ordering for 
I drilled four holes in the front mount and filled the rear mount, and having just driven the car home I'm very pleased with the results. Engine flap has stopped, and whilst engine vibration has increased along with noise it is by no means an unreasonable amount. Hopefully they'll last a while yet (Bahnstormer) | 2004 RX8 231 (the Racecat) | 2001 Volvo V70 (Swedish eBay barge)| 1988 MR2 SC Super Edition...