Time for a Service, couple of questions.

[Stealthy]

Hi all,

Well I've had my 2 for a few months now so I think it's about time to give her a bit of a service.

It's a Rev1 N/A

I'm looking at changing, engine oil and filter, plugs, rotor arm, dizzy, leads, coolant change and a gearbox oil change.

Now onto the questions (Should really buy a Haynes)

How much oil do I need? I'm going to use semi syn 10w40, unless there's a better grade to use?

I've read that I need 4.1 litres of gearbox oil!? This surely isn't right, is it?

Also how much coolant shall I need to buy? Fensport do 5ltr bottles of Forlife, will this be adequate?


Cheers

Gavin

[JohnnyC]

I've read that I need 4.1 litres of gearbox oil!? This surely isn't right, is it?

I believe that figure is for an LSD gearbox.
Yours should be around 2.8 litres.

Also how much coolant shall I need to buy? Fensport do 5ltr bottles of Forlife, will this be adequate?

The system holds something like 13.4 or 13.6 litres.
I drained mine from the radiator and the pipes under the car - but not the drain on the engine. So I used just under 10 litres.

HTH.

[DB1]

Now onto the questions (Should really buy a Haynes)

I dont think they make one for the SW20, not that i can find anyway,

Dean

[Stealthy]

@ JohnnyC,

Cheers for the info

From what I read, The LSD gearbox takes 3.8 litres and the non LSD takes 4.1 litres, hmmm?

Here's the site http://www.btinternet.com/~netsurf/mr2t ... GearRatios

I'm a little skeptical on taking that site as gospel though.

Has anyone a workshop manual for the SW20 online? I'm also unable to find a Haynes. Only seem to find little snippets from manuals online.


Cheers

Gavin

[toxo]

That site is talking about Turbo gearboxes. Stick '1991 MR2 BGB' into google and see what happens

[Stealthy]

Opps, was supposed to mention that the site referred to turbo boxes and was going to ask if they differ


That is spot on Toxo



Cheers

[Stealthy]

Sorry if I'm sounding stupid, but in that online manual it only refers to the 3S-GTE, are the oil capacities the same between the GE and the GTE?

[toxo]

Actually it refers to the 5SFE and the 3SGTE Pretty sure the oil capacity is similar between the two 3S engines though. It is, admittedly, more use to turbo drivers, but the guides for how to do things are all pretty good.

[Leon.]

If its any help, my rev 4 N/A took 4.2 litres of engine oil (with filter change), and gearbox was around 2.8 litres.

[genuinita]

I'm going to use semi syn 10w40, unless there's a better grade to use?
Gavin

0w30 full synth would be preferred because:

the lower the better for the first number to reduce engine wear at startup (but not too low with semi synth, maybe 5 or 10w30 if using semi)

toyota specify 30 or 40 for the latter but the 30 will provide more oil flow (thus better engine cooling) whilst still maintaining correct pressure

[Baker]

fully synth 5-40 is regarded as best for most mr2's.

[genuinita]

full synth of course but why 5w40?

[Stealthy]

Cheers Leeroy

In regards to the oil, what are the pros and cons for fully synth and semi synth?

Cheers

[HighwayStar]

Semi synth 10w40 in mine for at least the last 10yrs and 100,000 miles and it's still going strong at 192k. Same car as the OPs.

R.

[fearless]

their is no haines manuals for a mr2 i emailed haines to see if thay would do one in the future, but said their would not be enough demand on them real shame really i like haines manuals

[Stealthy]

Semi synth 10w40 in mine for at least the last 10yrs and 100,000 miles and it's still going strong at 192k. Same car as the OPs.

R.

With that statement, I think I shall follow suit!

[jmachling]

I believe the benefits of a fully synthetic are most appropriate for a tubby as the oil passing through the turbo reaches very high temps - semi-synthetics are more prone to shearing at high temps leading to changes in their properties. I'd imagine they're fine for n/a engines, though.

Check any of the many posts by oilman for full details.

[genuinita]

If the good full synths (ie ester based: Redline, Amsoil) cost twice as much as semi but you only have to change them half as often then they work out costing the same to use. You've just gained all the benefits of full synth at no extra cost and half as much work (oil changes).

The full synth has some properties that would also benefit na engines:
- it removes varnish & sludge deposits much better and leaves less to begin with
- it clings to the metal more so won't drain off the bearings etc as quickly between uses
(- i should think the ability to cope with high temps may be of some use in the piston head/cylinder wall area in all engines? )

[Leon.]

If the good full synths (ie ester based: Redline, Amsoil) cost twice as much as semi but you only have to change them half as often then they work out costing the same to use. You've just gained all the benefits of full synth at no extra cost and half as much work (oil changes).

The full synth has some properties that would also benefit na engines:
- it removes varnish & sludge deposits much better and leaves less to begin with
- it clings to the metal more so won't drain off the bearings etc as quickly between uses
(- i should think the ability to cope with high temps may be of some use in the piston head/cylinder wall area in all engines? )

Nice to hear someone with some common sense. if you don't do the oil change yourself you'll also halve your labour costs. With reduced friction and wear, you'll keep your original bhp for longer and no doubt reduce petrol consumption slightly. I personally really like the bonus of a smoother ride for longer too.

I can't see a reason for not buying fully syn tbh, and no-one has given a good enough reason to pursuade me otherwise

[Baker]

thanks guys, as i said, 5w40 fully synth is generally regarded as the best oil.

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