[Mk2] [Turbo] Found this, how to setup your AFM

[mrfil13]

Found this on mr2oc.com, its a guide on how to adjust the AFM back to stock if its been fiddled with and also has a link to a guide for people with cold hesitation.

http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?p=3 ... ost3282618

http://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=287627

[oBladeo]

aaa cool thanks wish i could remove it all together tho

[platmatt8]

Well i checked this before using the match stick method, seem ok so never bothered to alter anything.

Car started 1st time everytime but was always a little rough so decided to do this using a digital caliper depth gauge my code is 73 = 17.3mm.

NOW THEN....... the caliper says it`s 17.57, i`ve just turned it down to 17.3 exactly, started the car and what do ya know starts and runs perfectly. I`m going to test it over the next couple of days morning cold starts and evening cold starts and report back.



SOOOO.... what i`m saying to you AFM chaps is get a proper caliper gauge and do it properly you won`t be sorry (that is unless your car runs perfect anyway then leave it alone)

[platmatt8]

Just a little up date,

Took the car out for a blast before and wow!!!!! Seems to be preforming a lot better pulling very nicely indeed this is turning out to be a must do job for all the AFM people. (Just check it)


Will see about the morning cold starts over next couple of days.

[jimGTS]

nice info....

[gline]

i take it this is really only a stock ecu problem as a decent map would sort out any fuelling issues yeh?

[luthor1]

Please cut&paste the information rather than linking to a thread on another forum which requires signing up to!!

Cheers
Luthor

[platmatt8]

One common problem people run into with their 3sgte AFM's is that their idle screw had been messed with at one point or another, and the BGB doesn't have any clear instructions on how to set it back to its factory position. This post will show you how put it back to its original adjustment.

Remove the AFM from your car, and take a look at the section circled in red. It's a little difficult to see (you might have to bust out the carb cleaner), but there is a 2 digit number stamped into the casing. This number is a code that represents the distance from the top of the screw, to the top edge of the hole the screw is recessed in.



Nb:- (I DIDN`T USE MATCH METHOD MY CALIPER HAD A PROPPER DEPTH GAUGE)


Once you get your two digit number, your going to have to refer to this chart to convert the code to millimeters. Keep in mind, that every AFM has its unique number.


25 = 12.5mm
30 = 13.0mm
35 = 13.5mm
40 = 14.0mm
45 = 14.5mm
50 = 15.0mm
55 = 15.5mm
60 = 16.0mm
65 = 16.5mm

If your code is higher or lower then this chart, then just add/subtract using this chart as an example.

Now that you have your code figured out, your going to need a wooden match (or something similar), a pen, and some kind of digital caliper or micrometer. Set the digital caliper as close as you can to your mm measurement and mark that length on the wooden match with a pen.





Now stick the match down into the AFM so that its touching the very tip of the Philips adjustment screw and adjust the screw as needed so that the marking on your match meets the very top edge of the recessed hole the adjustment screw sits in. Now RESET YOUR ECU by pulling the efi fuse or disconnecting the battery for about 30sec. Reinstall the afm and start the car back up, your AFM is now back to its factory position.



This info was gained of the MR2oc forums, and was writen by Lagos

[Nails]

Ive checked mine and it has 7 1 on it, does this mean that mine should be 17.1mm deep?
Mine took loads of turning to set it to that setting? I'm wondering have I missed something in my stupidity?

[platmatt8]

65 = 16.5
66 = 16.6
67 = 16.7
68 = 16.8
69 = 16.9
70 = 17
71 = 17.1

The measurement is to the top of the screw NOT the centre on the philips point.

[Nails]

cheers mate, I was wondering about that, but the micrometer I was using had a fat end that didnt sit inside to point anyway so that decided it for me lol.

[slipping clutch]

[quote="oBladeo"]aaa cool thanks wish i could remove it all together tho [/quote]
You can - parts required. rev 3 ecu, rev 3 map sensor rev 3 maf sensor and rev 3 injectors then get some one who knows what they are doing to change the pins on your ecu blocks - 3S did mine.
Hewy presto no more afm!

[oBladeo]

aaa cool thanks wish i could remove it all together tho

You can - parts required. rev 3 ecu, rev 3 map sensor rev 3 maf sensor and rev 3 injectors then get some one who knows what they are doing to change the pins on your ecu blocks - 3S did mine.
Hewy presto no more afm!

Will go to rouge lol

Need they to do some work anyway

thanks tho

[mrfil13]

aaa cool thanks wish i could remove it all together tho

You can - parts required. rev 3 ecu, rev 3 map sensor rev 3 maf sensor and rev 3 injectors then get some one who knows what they are doing to change the pins on your ecu blocks - 3S did mine.
Hewy presto no more afm!

Did you do anything else at the same time as getting rid of the AFM, if not was there much of a difference?

[Drifter]

wow, looks a wicked post, im having fueling issues atm, this is something else i can check thankyou

Dave

[Drifter]

aaa cool thanks wish i could remove it all together tho

You can - parts required. rev 3 ecu, rev 3 map sensor rev 3 maf sensor and rev 3 injectors then get some one who knows what they are doing to change the pins on your ecu blocks - 3S did mine.
Hewy presto no more afm!

Did you do anything else at the same time as getting rid of the AFM, if not was there much of a difference?

Bump to this question please, as im having issues with my AFM so why not just get rid of it

Thanks
Dave

[slipping clutch]

sorry I didnt notice the thread had been added to.
At the time of my conversion I was running a few mods - if you want a list please P.M. me. BUt basically I found the car was more responsive, especially in the mid range, slightly heavier fuel consumption ( Its also possible I may have been running a little rich in the mid range) to be honest I had been having so many afm related issues it was just pure heaven to have the car running strong again - I have heard and please note this is only hear say that the rev 1's converted like this can get hesitant at the top end. Didnt happen in my case but I think your best bet would be to some one who does the mod like 3s as they will have lots more feedback than I can give you.
Hope this helps and again sorry for the slow reply.

[Tiny]

i recently checked mine and it was hardly any difference out were talking .2 of a mm but the difference is HUGE once set much better throttle response and seems to be much happier on cold mornings.

[oBladeo]

As you can see from my other thread i'm now using a Emanage Ultimate pressure sensor and AFM just to run the car in.

Once thats done i'll be having the car mapped again and just use the pressure sensor.

I couldn't be bothered to start swopping ecu's and adding seonsors n stuff

[Pirate]

This number is a code that represents the distance from the top of the screw, to the top edge of the hole the screw is recessed in

My afm has been messed with before i bought and many times after , all to find out why i was having running issues. ( turned out to be the tps ) , wish i could just use a ruler lol don't have this measuring gauge stuff.

I think mine is 78 , so i guess i measure from the top of the screw to the top of the hole?