paul you wont have noticed the difference because the difference is too small to feel.The reason the mod is done is because there's a noticeable dip in the power curve right were the relay clicks over between low voltage and high voltage circuits.Its thought that for a millisecond during the switchover the relay is actually outputting 0v and thats the hiccup in fuelling.Most agree that toyota arent even aware of this minor glitch.

The only side effect will be an 8% richer running at idle,just stick the relay back in for MOT,but then again a tubby doesnt need to pass emissions anyway.

I say if it provides more power no matter how little and its free then why not?

Fizzy from memory i cant actually remember the wire colour codes or pin terminals but theres bound to be articles on the net detailing.If you want to find them manually then you need to remove the relay and use a multimeter to locate the terminal that gives 12v with ignition on

(not the constant 12v) and join this terminal to the fuel pump supply wire

(usually blue).You can find this wire by doing a continuity check between the relay terminals and terminal FP in the diagnostic socket.To be honest its probably better that you test for the wires yourself anyway as i remember people having problems on the old imoc board due to differences in relay wiring across the revisions.
