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Harry wrote:Steve also has the Radtec and T67 Greddy If memory serves and gets around the 450-500 power mark at 1.7 bar.
476bhp & 415ft lb @ 1.9bar Magic by Ryan!Gone, but never forgottenNow with a mk1.5 & a NHB EP3Steve Horrocks wrote:
Hazza, who is this Steve fella?
So, there is my dilemma.
Do you know what settings they have been set too? IIRC the HKS settings they suggest are rubbish. On another note thats why mine was making little power - the cams were on the p1$$ and its not something I have bothered to set up, since getting the car. the tester advised it would be costing me alot of power due to how they have been set up. Different rolling roads with different operators will give wildly different figures.
Unless they have done something wrong they wont be massivley out. 10 / 20 maybe but not 100bhp!Went back to the RR today and still no joy.
/ igniter? Had some weird running issues with mine recently, culprit was the igniter which gave good running one moment then flat running the next. Also had random starting issues (lots of cranking) and hovering revs (circa 4k) but not down to a stuck throttle.Hi mate, I did a compression test a couple of months ago as I was getting oil in the intake pipe.
This way if there is you will see the pressure drop. Will try and hook my video up mate and check your run, as I was at the back of the car so something might be visable. Smelled nice and clean, if a little rich maybe? A good breather system will help this but it is best to find where the oil is coming from. 9/10 its the turbo and when changed out, has enabled more timing to be ran and more power is made.Bender Unit wrote:
Possibly coil pack
- that would make sense. In fact, Paul asked me whether I still had the standard/original one on today. I said that I figured it did but he didn't elaborate. Might explain the random engine cut-out too 
Bender Unit wrote:
Also when you car was running I dont recall seeing any blow by, bad smells or smoke.
You can see it on the hi-res version of the video I posted on eight-six. I will stick with it - I want the scary factor back 
Ryan.g wrote:
Nick, If you have oil contamanation in the intake system then this lowers the octane level of the mixture resulting in the amount of timing being limited.
AFAIK the oil comes from leaking turbo seals as I see it in the intake pipe even with the PCV pipe disconnected. Can't see where else it would be coming from.. replace igniter / coil pack? I'm not even sure where that lives 
I'm guessing it's the thing that the distributor king lead plugs in to Can you buy uprated ones?- I sure hope so!Steve Horrocks wrote:Hazza, who is this Steve fella?
Steve Is Imocuk name spitelli. He Is a low key member martial arts sensei, web designer mates with myself, Jason and James at 3 s service centre/GT Toyota. Mapped by Ryan2bar tuning, built and refined by James at 3 ssc. He Is a low key member and designs the 3 ssc Internet web site. His MR 2 Is a sleeper classic stock exterior drives smooth as silk. 
Do like the Stevo-O MR 2 Nick not this one here though. This is looking more and more like the issue as when it cut out the tacho dropped like a stone to zero revs. Should I just replace this or do the coil at the same time?
TBH the coil is a pretty basic part and unlikley to go wrong but worth testing none the less.Bender Unit wrote:Do all the tests as well mate the igniter tested fine on one but then failed the other tests i did running a power source through it.
- took me forever to actually get it out but it's on the bench now and ready for testing. However, there is conflicting information in the BGB test details. The flowchart says that the secondary coil should be 10 -14 Ohms. The 'detail' section further down says this should be 10 -14 kilo Ohms. Which one is it? 
I guess it is kilo-ohms as my readings come out to:Primary coil - 0.5 ohms- 12 kilo-ohms- I can't find the test you describe where you run a power source through it, or in fact any igniter tests as this seems to relate only to the coil... Do you have any details? Here is the page from the BGB I'm using:
(or igniter - they seem to be the same thing in the BGB) checked out OK using their tests so I put it all back together again. Now the bloody thing won't even start! cap and cranking the engine. First time I did it I got one solid blue spark, then a weak orange one then nothing. Subsequent tests produced either one/two weak orange sparks or nothing at all. So I guess a new one is in order - I presume it's supposed to keep on sparking while cranking - in fact I'm almost too embarrased to say what it was but here goes... I tracked one dodgy connection where there appeared to be an arc between two bullet connectors. I then found a wire behind the dash that was chaffing on the headunit mount (I had 3S wire the fans up to the defunct AC switch, so I could chose when to run them). Fuses still kept blowing so, in a hurry to get them working before the RR day, I wired them directly into the IGN wire in the engine bay fusebox (there was already an unused tap-off there so it was quick n easy). What I now realise is that I didn't go via the relay and when I pulled the in-line fuse today to get better access to the fusebox, the plastic surrounding the fuse has melted! Also, the spade connector on the back of the fuse carrier is looking a bit black. 
If this turns out to be the case I'm going to be well peeved with myself. I was supposed to be at the Pod today to get some practice in for TOTB but of course missed that. Kicking myself at the moment... 
Harry wrote:Sounds like It's starting to add up Nick.Rather get the ignition and electrics dealt with as the starting point to solving the power loss.
T- started first time so must have been a bad earth I guess. Took it for a hard drive and had the rev counter drop and and no power for a split second a couple of times. Seems to happen after booting it and then going into cruise mode for a while. Also sounds a little lumpy on idle, even when well warmed up. Kind of a faint, irregular popping noise from the exhaust, like it's misfiring.
Thanks to all who have helped so far Greddy-Matt wrote:Does it sound like this?
http://s151.photobucket.com/albums/s138 ... ustuse.flv
Will get a vid up later. @ 1.5 bar the flywheel with mine with a cracked manifold. Current situation is that it's sat on the drive and won't start - I've been too busy at work to do much about it. All other electrics seemed fine and no lights on the dash. At the time I was just cruising on the dual carriageway, it cuts out and then about 10 seconds later, came back to life. SBits have sent a different coil/igniter to try out but unfortunately it appears that Royal Mail might have lost it... Guess I'll need to get it up to Rogue or something to get it checked properly. But it does sound like you have some electrical problems too. Mine sometimes misfires quite badly and sounds pretty much as what your problem is but not as bad.