[Mk2] [Turbo] Is this parts list good for 500-ish BHP?

[redeye32uk]

I'm not looking for 500rwhp but want a safe 400 (if anything is safe) and have 1000cc injectors, also a proper twin scroll setup with a gt3076r, water injection and a small shot of Direct port NOS and a few other tricks.
Its going to be a daily driver to with hard drag use at rwyb meets. just hope it holds together lol.

[Wingers]

I'm not looking for 500rwhp but want a safe 400 (if anything is safe) and have 1000cc injectors, also a proper twin scroll setup with a gt3076r, water injection and a small shot of Direct port NOS and a few other tricks.
Its going to be a daily driver to with hard drag use at rwyb meets. just hope it holds together lol.

I'd be interested to hear how you get on. If I'm honest, I'd like to use mine as a daily driver as well but we'll see how sensible that is!
How far have you got with the build? Keep me posted on your progress


Reffering back to a few of the questions/points that came up earlier in the thread:

I certainly don't like the idea of 87mm bores, nor do I really want a 5sfe block.
At the moment, I'm thinking that either 86.25 or 86.5 pistons and a std crank are what I should do. My only concern is the spool up and bottom end (obviously), but right now i don't think that the extra power/spool is worth the added cost and risk.

Having looked through a few more threads, I think that the inlet manifold is probably not needed so I'm going to drop that from the initial shopping list. If it turns out that i do need it, It shouldn't be a difficult bolt-on.

I think most of the important points have probably come out now so I'm gonna open the flood gates and mention the T word:
Everywere I look, I seem to be coming back to the same conclusion; GT3076r.
I like the idea of quick spool and not too much lag, even if I have sacrifice some of the bragging rights down the pub.
As previously stated, I'm keen to have the bottom end build ready to accept a bit more power and I may end up switching to a bigger GT35 at some stage but out of the box I'm planning a GT3076r. Where is the best place to look for one of these?

With regards to fuel injectors, how are the Wolfkats 870cc generally considered? If 800s are good for 420bhp then 870s would probably satisfy my needs.

Oh, and one other question I have is water injection. I'm tempted to add this but I'm not sure howmuch it would cons or how complicated it would be? Where have others got this from, and would you rate it as a valid upgrade? Presumably with it i should increase my compression ratio a bit?

Here is my latest spec sheet:

Bottom end:
CP pistons 86.5mm
Eagle rods
ARP rod bolts
Toga oil pump
Clivette Main BRGs
Clivette rod BRGs
Clivette thrust BRGs
ARP main studs

Head/Valvetrain:
ARP head studs
HKS 264 Cams
Fidanza Adjustable cam gears
Ferrea +1mm Ex valves
Ferrea +1mm In valves
ATSValve springs
Head gasket
Ported head
Under bucket shims

Other:
LINK G3 LEM
Wolfkats 870cc injectors + rail
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Fuel pipes
Walbro 255 fuel pump
I/C (Phoenix Power???)
Clutch
Flywheel

Turbo:
GT3076r

Options:
2.2 Crank
SARD 800cc injectors
Fuel rail
New inlet manifold

Let me know you're comments on these brands.
I'd also be keen to hear where you sourced any of these parts from and how much I should expect to pay(via pm).

Thanks,

Wingers

[Ja99a]

I have gotta comment on the suggestion of installing gauges for everything, yes in general driving you can look at them but you try flooring your mr2 turbo and checking if something is going wrong with the gauges.

TBH I can sometimes steal a look at the boost gauge when driving quickly, but that's it, I personally would prefer a big red light or something that is a overall warning for anything not within working limits, oil pressure, boost, exhaust temp, knock etc, that way I would have a chance to let off and save the motor.

I drive an MR2 not a space shuttle

Just a real world observation.

[mattcambs]

I think for a daily driver you don't want the hassle of water injection. The money you save on this would be much better spent on a Radtech charge cooler (mounts in stock IC location). With a built engine and a GT30, you should still have a tractable daily driver.

Paul @ Kent Car Craft has nearly finished his car. His will be running:

GT3076R
Link G3
Boot mount IC
I won't go into any more detail in case it's all secret.

Ryan at 2 bar will be mapping it and they are expecting a nice torquey (it's a rev2 intake) 400+ bhp at the wheels

Why not have a chat with him about what he's done exactly

Another thought: what are your plans wheel/tyre wise? If I was going to have a 400bhp+ MR2 I wouldn't think of less than 9in wide rear wheels.

[Whippett]

I think for a daily driver you don't want the hassle of water injection. The money you save on this would be much better spent on a Radtech charge cooler (mounts in stock IC location). With a built engine and a GT30, you should still have a tractable daily driver.

Paul @ Kent Car Craft has nearly finished his car. His will be running:

GT3076R
Link G3
Boot mount IC
I won't go into any more detail in case it's all secret.

Ryan at 2 bar will be mapping it and they are expecting a nice torquey (it's a rev2 intake) 400+ bhp at the wheels

Why not have a chat with him about what he's done exactly

Another thought: what are your plans wheel/tyre wise? If I was going to have a 400bhp+ MR2 I wouldn't think of less than 9in wide rear wheels.

Thanks Matt. BTW I'm running a 3071 not a 3076

Wingers, I hope you have very deep pockets my friend as if you want to go the whole hog, you are looking at atleast a £10k build

If you do not want to go BMIC, then as Matt says the Radtech CC is the way to go, check out the spec on Earl's old Red Beast, he was running this with the GT35.

No need for the RMR unless you are running huge horsepower, if keeping to 400-450bhp it is not needed. 800cc injectors will be too small for 500+bhp.

There are many mods that are much of a muchness and are not required, a properly mapped Link G3 will made the need for water injection redundant, I had WI before my build but have since sold it. Not saying that a decent Aquamist set-up would be a bad thing though! But if it is mapped to it then you'll need to keep topping it up.

Some good advice from the guys on here, but I suggest you start with the basics, build a good forged engine and then go from there. For 500hp you're looking at spending £1k on headwork alone!

I've been out in an MR2 pushing 450-500hp and my god was it fast!

[gts 400]

my car has the gt3076r and runs about 380 tops at the engine ! the motor is well old now and a new engine is coming ! i know how hard it is when choosing turbos etc ! been a nightmare mate if i can help let me know i'm only up the road from you near gatwick and would be happy to meet up and show you what the motor pulls like!

the chap i use is friends with adrian at fensport !and charges me £35 an hour! he runs a now 600 bhp mr2 ! and will be building my next engine!

we will use carrillo rods these are better than the eagles in mine at the mo, they are about £700 double the price of eagle but handle high boost like 2 bar far better! je pistons is the way, £400 i think ! i have gone for motec and it has saved my engine more than once but it was £2000 it's up to you! water injection keeps the charge temp down! and fensport use it ! very easy very cheap brought 6 gallons of it wich has lasted for 2 years for about £50! the top of the new engine going in soon has cost a lot £600 for 1mm oversized valves and springs, 272 cams and pulleys £800, head port polsih and skimmed on cnc machine £1500, head gasket 1.6mm £200, 70mm throttle body £100, £200 for balancing! the list goes on ! i have spent £45,000 in three years on 2 mr2s the guy above me is right it costs alot and it does not stop !!!! because your gearbox will take a hammering etc, so things will need to be replaced more frequently! rota arms spark plugs etc!
my first mr2 build was done by people that did not know mr2's well but were engine builders it lasted 24,000 miles thats it this time i hope for 50,000 we will see !

hope your not put off lol !!

[greeny]

I'm not looking for 500rwhp but want a safe 400 (if anything is safe) and have 1000cc injectors, also a proper twin scroll setup with a gt3076r, water injection and a small shot of Direct port NOS and a few other tricks.
Its going to be a daily driver to with hard drag use at rwyb meets. just hope it holds together lol.

Whats yor twin scroll setup like?

[GGilbert_MR2]

Are 800cc sard injectors sufficient enough for 400 fwhp?

[redeye32uk]

I think for a daily driver you don't want the hassle of water injection.

Not dissagreeing with what you say as such but why/how is water injection a hassle?

[splashnatz]

Are 800cc sard injectors sufficient enough for 400 fwhp?

yes.

[mattcambs]

I think for a daily driver you don't want the hassle of water injection.

Not dissagreeing with what you say as such but why/how is water injection a hassle?

Whilst I know it's a tried and tested tuning route for MR2 Turbos, for me, I'd rather use a decent IC or CC which can be installed and forgot about rather than a system that requires some minor maintenence, i.e. topping up.

I think there are nicer, less complicated solutions to keep intake and engine bay temps down - i.e. Radtech CC or BMIC and engine lid SPAL fans

The water injection route is a bit old school/fen sport isn't it?

[tarmac terrorist]

im running 87.5mm pistons (wiseco) ceramic coated crowns & teflon coated skirts they have been in there for over 4 years im a currently up to 405whp and the mapping is still not finished yet .. running a gt3076r..i think a lot of it is down to how well the engine is built i spent a lot of time,port matching head & polish exhaust ports..etc.etc.. balancing the pistons & conrods to reduce stress on engine parts... they reacon 500hp is possible with my set up but def say that is the limit of the turbo i also run hks 272 intake cam..264 exhaust cam i also have a boot mount intercooler but am having problems with cooling of the intercooler at the moment at high speed on motorway mor research required lol

[redeye32uk]

I think for a daily driver you don't want the hassle of water injection.

Not dissagreeing with what you say as such but why/how is water injection a hassle?

Whilst I know it's a tried and tested tuning route for MR2 Turbos, for me, I'd rather use a decent IC or CC which can be installed and forgot about rather than a system that requires some minor maintenence, i.e. topping up.

I think there are nicer, less complicated solutions to keep intake and engine bay temps down - i.e. Radtech CC or BMIC and engine lid SPAL fans

The water injection route is a bit old school/fen sport isn't it?

Lol, if topping up once a month at the most is hassle how often do you check your oil and water? ....... and it is being used with a Greddy i/c and 2 x 12" spal fans in the engine lid plus one on the i/c

[mattcambs]

Lol, if topping up once a month at the most is hassle how often do you check your oil and water? ....... and it is being used with a Greddy i/c and 2 x 12" spal fans in the engine lid plus one on the i/c

It's just me. I just don't like the idea of water injection. It's kind of cheating, a bit like nitrous - even though we all know they both work brilliantly.

[redeye32uk]

lol, fair enough, You must look upon me as a double cheat then as i'll be using both

[greeny]

I'm not looking for 500rwhp but want a safe 400 (if anything is safe) and have 1000cc injectors, also a proper twin scroll setup with a gt3076r, water injection and a small shot of Direct port NOS and a few other tricks.
Its going to be a daily driver to with hard drag use at rwyb meets. just hope it holds together lol.

Whats yor twin scroll setup like?

[Wingers]

I think for a daily driver you don't want the hassle of water injection. The money you save on this would be much better spent on a Radtech charge cooler (mounts in stock IC location). With a built engine and a GT30, you should still have a tractable daily driver.

2 Comments here really - first is that it sounds like i need to look into this redtec CC. Sounds like something that could work nicely for me, but, I'm still happy to consider water injection on a daily driver. With a dual map Link ECU, I could easily have a "normal map" that doesn't use WI and a "fun map" that does. Should even be able set up an auto switch that detects when i've run out of water and switches automatically

How hard is it to retro fit WI? If it's not an engine out job then i'll probably shelve this for now and maybe consider it once the engines up and running.

Another thought: what are your plans wheel/tyre wise? If I was going to have a 400bhp+ MR2 I wouldn't think of less than 9in wide rear wheels.

No idea yet - i'll get the engine up and running first. Currently i'm running P Zero 245s on 8" rims so shouldn't be too bad .

I have gotta comment on the suggestion of installing gauges for everything, yes in general driving you can look at them but you try flooring your mr2 turbo and checking if something is going wrong with the gauges.

TBH I can sometimes steal a look at the boost gauge when driving quickly, but that's it, I personally would prefer a big red light or something that is a overall warning for anything not within working limits, oil pressure, boost, exhaust temp, knock etc, that way I would have a chance to let off and save the motor.

I drive an MR2 not a space shuttle

Just a real world observation

that's a fair point and I agree to some extent. It's good to have some analoge indication of "danger" but, like you, I'm not a fan of having gauges everywhere.
During the set up/mapping etc. phases then I want to know exactly whats going on, but once it's up and running, I'd consider removing them. I wouldn't mind fitting a number of LED "bar graphs" that don't take up half the cabin but do give an idea of when things are getting close to the limt.
IMO, 4 or 5 of these along the bottom of the dash would be subtle but useful.

It's just me. I just don't like the idea of water injection. It's kind of cheating, a bit like nitrous - even though we all know they both work brilliantly.

Strangely i feel exactly the same about NOS but i like the idea of water injection - can't really explain that???

i'm only up the road from you near gatwick and would be happy to meet up and show you what the motor pulls like!

Where do I sign up?
Seriously though - I'll be in touch. It sounds like you have a lot of personal experiance here which is something i'm definitely missing. I design engines for a living so can normally get up to speed pretty well but have no real experience with these engines.

Thanks again for all the help guys - 10 out of 10 for imoc

Wingers

[mattcambs]

Currently i'm running P Zero 245s on 8" rims so shouldn't be too bad

Sorry, off topic, but are you on 16 or 17in wheels. Just wondering if 245 tyres would be worth looking at on my Sparco 8in wide rears (16in diameter). Currently I'm using 225/45 R16 and they're slightly stretched.

[RyanRs]

Ewww p-zeros.. they stick to the road like sh*t sticks to your shoe for the 1st 2 corners! .....then there as bald as coot!

[Wingers]

Oops - I've just had a look and they're 225 not 245s.

225/45/17 rear
225/35/17 front

Wingers