[Mk2] [Turbo] DVD/TV Connection Question

[Carty]

Hey all. I brought a cheap double Din DVD/TV off ebay, iv heard a few good things and the feedback seemed decent so i thought stuff it, I'll go for it. Anyway I'm a total waste of space when it comes to ICE.

Would i be rite in thinking i can just connect this up with the plugs and that's job done? It's all the lose wires that are worrying me, it cant be that easy can it?

Heres a pic of the DVD/TV



and this is my dash (bad pic i now)



Thanks for any help

[Monaco]

The bad news is that it doesn't look like you've got ISO connectors on your cars wiring loom. That means the screen won't plug straight in unfortunately.

As far as I know you can buy adapters to change the Toyota plug into a proper ISO connector which will plug straight in. On my two I simply got my ICE guy to cut the toyota plug off and properly hard wire an ISO connector on the end.

As for the rest of the wires, without looking at the manual, I'd say that the P.Ctrl would need to go to any amps to switch them on with the headunit, and the audio antenna lead would do the same for the aerial. The brake shift control wire, I'm guessing should be connected up to your handbrake switch so that the DVD won't play whilst the car is moving. No idea about the Rack wire.

[Carty]

Thx for your help Monaco.

Took your advice and went for a ISO adapter, but was told there isn't one that match my plugs. A standard ISO adapter might go in but apparently its abit risky.

Anyone got any ideas pleaseeee?

[RichardK]

What's your car? UK or JDM, active or standard speakers? I'm guessing JDM due to the temperature markings.

Standard speakers, there's an ISO adaptor from Halfords.

Active speakers - may be like Toyota Sera SLSS. In which case, I managed to make a loom using two ISO adaptors and some parts from Toyota for the actual connectors, using the front speakers from the main loom and the rear speakers, rotation control, sub and centre feed from the amp connector (i.e. post amp, direct to speakers).

With a switch in place to rotate the rear speaker and feeds for the sub and centre available.

I absolutely, utterly detest people chopping off the factory looms. It's just about acceptable if the ISO one is done with proper solered joints and heatshrink, and ideally retaining the ability to swap power and acc in case of odd headunits, but adaptors exist for a reason.

EDIT: Yes, I see it says Turbo, but that category isn't visible when writing the reply ;D

[Carty]

What's your car? UK or JDM, active or standard speakers? I'm guessing JDM due to the temperature markings.

Standard speakers, there's an ISO adaptor from Halfords.

Active speakers - may be like Toyota Sera SLSS. In which case, I managed to make a loom using two ISO adaptors and some parts from Toyota for the actual connectors, using the front speakers from the main loom and the rear speakers, rotation control, sub and centre feed from the amp connector (i.e. post amp, direct to speakers).

With a switch in place to rotate the rear speaker and feeds for the sub and centre available.

I absolutely, utterly detest people chopping off the factory looms. It's just about acceptable if the ISO one is done with proper solered joints and heatshrink, and ideally retaining the ability to swap power and acc in case of odd headunits, but adaptors exist for a reason.

EDIT: Yes, I see it says Turbo, but that category isn't visible when writing the reply ;D

hehe, thx for your help, It is a JDM and turbo like u say with everything standard so an ISO adapter should work. It was just the person i spoke to warning me that "its abit risky" using a standard ISO adapter on an imported MR2. Which didnt seem to make sence to me but still gave me that bit of doubt. All i can think of is he was referring to the earth wire since the mr2 apparently isn't the best from factory so iv heard.

Feck it, gna go get me a standard ISO adapter 2moz and give it for a try. I dont know what i'd do without you guys!

[Monaco]

What's your car? UK or JDM, active or standard speakers? I'm guessing JDM due to the temperature markings.

Standard speakers, there's an ISO adaptor from Halfords.

Active speakers - may be like Toyota Sera SLSS. In which case, I managed to make a loom using two ISO adaptors and some parts from Toyota for the actual connectors, using the front speakers from the main loom and the rear speakers, rotation control, sub and centre feed from the amp connector (i.e. post amp, direct to speakers).

With a switch in place to rotate the rear speaker and feeds for the sub and centre available.

I absolutely, utterly detest people chopping off the factory looms. It's just about acceptable if the ISO one is done with proper solered joints and heatshrink, and ideally retaining the ability to swap power and acc in case of odd headunits, but adaptors exist for a reason.

EDIT: Yes, I see it says Turbo, but that category isn't visible when writing the reply ;D

hehe, thx for your help, It is a JDM and turbo like u say with everything standard so an ISO adapter should work. It was just the person i spoke to warning me that "its abit risky" using a standard ISO adapter on an imported MR2. Which didnt seem to make sence to me but still gave me that bit of doubt. All i can think of is he was referring to the earth wire since the mr2 apparently isn't the best from factory so iv heard.

Feck it, gna go get me a standard ISO adapter 2moz and give it for a try. I dont know what i'd do without you guys!

Careful what you interpret 'standard' speakers as bud. The MR came with two different types of stereo set up from the factory.

The normal system came with 4 speakers powered of the HU amp.

The 'active' system came with external amps and small subs built into the storage boxes. This was a factory option, so it would look 'standard' i.e. not aftermarket.

Are the hinged boxes behind the seats empty with a blank front? Or is there a plastic grill on the front and filled with a big plastic moulding when you look inside?

If its the latter, then as RichardK pointed out, you can't get a normal adapter for it.

[Carty]

Just checked and there is a plastic grill with from what i can see in the dark "Super Live Sound System" or something along those lines written on it in gold writing.

So from using what little brain power i have, im guessing that means i have an active system what i have been readin about everywhere and not knowing what it meant :p

Just booked it into my local place, there going to fit it and my hard wire my road angel in for 50 quid. Worth it i think if i cant just plug it rite in.

[RichardK]

Okay, SLSS - Super Live Sound System - is what my Sera had, and is also known as Active Speakers.

It's possible to make an adaptor for £18.

But I'm sure your local electrical monkeys will be able to bodge it in somehow

(I'm sure people exist that are competent. But the number of times I've seen Sera wiring messed up because they missed the amp between the output and the speakers, and just tried to work it out from there...)

At the very least, arm yourself - and therefore, your electrician - with as much wiring information as you can find. It's not as simple as just "removing the head unit connector and changing it". but they can save themselves some work, and you some potential trim rattles, by using the existing wiring.

I can't be much more help since i don't know precisely how the MR2 SLSS/Active setup differs from the Sera. I'm guessing "Not Much", but I don't know where the amp is located (behind radio on tunnel in Sera) or how it is connected (similar plug to head unit, but with a different offset on the catch).

EDIT: Oh, and one thing they can do (from memory) is use the ISO adaptor to get power, illumination and antenna control, and then add new speaker wiring. Which would be non-destructive to the original system.

[Carty]

Appreciate all the help, i shall be finding out everything i can from what you have said plus the wiring diagrams and explaining to the auto electrician who is sorting it for me just incase. I know his a good guy but like you said its gotta be a good thing to make sure and check it all over

Again, just wanted to say thanks for all the help, its nice to know the Owners Club can he so friendly and helpful as quite a few aint so good.

[RichardK]

Google RCA-PC9-411

[Carty]

Google RCA-PC9-411

ahhh brill stuff. Thanks alot good sir

[Carty]

I brought one off ebay and it come today.

Connected it all up but im getting now power at all.

Starting to give up

[RichardK]

Fuses good?

I read on this site or elsewhere about some of the leads (the Autoleads one) having a pin misplaced - pin 13, IIRC - but I cannot remember what the issue was. Trace the wires and make sure the power etc. is in the right place.

I thought the lead was quite cleverly done, with the RCA leads for the built-in amps.

[Carty]

Still haventy got this done, so still with no stereo lol. My a\lternator decided to pack up 2day aswell, not havin much luck

The lead i had could only connevt up 1 plug, so i had power and picture but nbo audio.

Spoek to a guy at an ICE Job and he told me his had a few ppl wiv the same problem and the only way to do it is to hard wire the front speakers in, that would obviously mean i lose the rear subs but thats the only way to get it done.

[RichardK]

The proper lead has ISO-power and RCA connections for speakers, that you hook the line-outputs up to...

[Monaco]

Still haventy got this done, so still with no stereo lol. My a\lternator decided to pack up 2day aswell, not havin much luck

The lead i had could only connevt up 1 plug, so i had power and picture but nbo audio.

Spoek to a guy at an ICE Job and he told me his had a few ppl wiv the same problem and the only way to do it is to hard wire the front speakers in, that would obviously mean i lose the rear subs but thats the only way to get it done.

I really wouldn't get too hung up about the 'active' amps and 'subs' fella.

The amps are tiny boxes hidden behind your rear quarter trim panels and they're not noticeably more powerful than the in built amp in a decent headunit.

Same for the subs...they're more like 5" mid bass drivers than proper sub woofers.

As said, when I had mine done, my guy used the factory power, ground etc wire to make up an ISO connector, and then routed fresh wiring for the speakers. Even without the 'active' amps, when powered by a good headunit it sounded better than the factory set up.

[marcnoonan]

Just a note on the eanon systems.

Fitted two different models, one in both mine and my brothers and the electric aerial output doesn't work on either. FYI both of ours are wired direct.

Cheers

Marc