First off you quoted me
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£300 for parts and
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£200 for labour as per your PM to me so lets be straight about that.
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3S Service Centre wrote:
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Righto fella managed to source all the bits ready for your install, i will need 300 upfront paying for the parts, the rest is payable on completion.
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Let me know when your ready.
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James
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You talk about doing the work on a shoe string, buying into a budget deal and a cheap deal.
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Where did it say that in the affiliates section? I don't recall seeing the advert saying CC's fitted on a shoe string budget? As far as I knew all the work you did was to the same standard.
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I've just spent 6k on my car getting it kitted and sprayed, new wheels etc and wanted
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/ was expecting a top quality job as a starting point for the big power mods I'm planning later in the year.
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At no point did I ever say to you that I wanted to scrimp on this job or do it on a shoe string budget.
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No mention was ever made of the different levels of workmanship that you could provide and I was under the impression that all of your work was done to the highest standard.
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You seem to be saying that the quality of your work will differ between a budget deal and a premium level service.
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That's very reassuring! So I got the Tesco's welding and wiring then did I? How much extra would it have cost to get the Kingsmill?
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I'm not talking about attention to fine detail like chrome brakets etc, I'm referring to basic professional workmanship such as good welding, strong mount points and wiring that isn't bare or chafing on metal.
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I'm not a mechanic so had no idea of the time it would take to do the job or the refinements that were available.
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Yes, I wanted this CC to look like it was fitted by Toyota.
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I have the money to do it and would have been prepared to pay that price if I'd have known the option was there.
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I never said you were bad at what you do
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(apart from welding) and I also never said I wanted it done on a shoe string.
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I am happy with the core itself and it does seem to be doing a good job in the limited miles that I've been able to do since getting the car back.
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You did say so yourself that you were unsure if it was a TTE core or just a normal one with a sticker on it.
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I very cleary did NOT say that my air con wasn't working and I'd be happy to lose it so I don't know where you got that one from.
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My air con works just fine thanks and always has done.
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I didn't say I knew better about the overflow either, I just wondered why it was blanked off.
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What's supposed to happen if it does need to overflow?
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What has really annoyed me about all this is that there are certain areas where you have taken shortcuts that has let the work down.
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The wiring to the pump for instance.
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It is protected by plastic armour where it connects to the pump but stops after a few inches leaving the rest of the wiring to rub against the back of the engine.
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Is this an example of work on a shoe string? If I was paying you
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£500 labour to fit the CC would you have run the wire in a better way or armoured it where it was rubbing? That wire will eventually wear away and could cause problems and to me that is an example of sloppy workmanship and nothing to do with different levels of service as you put it.
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I pay you to do a job and I expect the basics doing properly.
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I accept your points about the pop out connectors and extra wiring in the engine bay but notice you make no mention of the bare wiring in the fuse box.
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It's the same with the radiator brackets.
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No matter how you try to dress it up that is really terrible welding.
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What's price got to do with a good strong weld? Because this was a budget deal means I get crap welding that's in danger of failing? As the radiator is only held in at the top by a cable tie it will fall out if those bottom brackets fail and it's very likely that they would have failed at some point.
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The bumper is not the cause of the radiator being on the slant, how can it be? There's plenty of space in there
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and it's the same shape all the way across with nothing sticking out that would make it sit to one side.
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The reason it's slanted is because of the cable tie on one side pulling it across.
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Yes, it's not desirable to have had the front bumper removed but I would have if I'd known the CC radiator was only going to be held in by 1 cable tie and 2 dodgy brackets!
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You say the cable ties are there to prevent movement and not to take load.
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Fair enough if that was the case but it's not.
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The pipework at the front of the car is very loose and is banging around, especially the section with the red pipe.
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As previously mentioned my air con works fine and the movement in those water pipes is enough to fracture that air con pipe over a period of time.
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I disagree when you say the plastic undertrays won't cut the water pipes enough to make them leak.
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The edge of that plastic is sharp and there are already some noticeable score lines in them.
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Why take the risk and leave them rubbing anyway? I don't have a problem with you cutting the undertrays, I have a problem with them being cut in such a way as to be rubbing the pipes in the first place.
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Why not cut out a section of the tray instead of just making a slice and forcing the pipe through?
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What I'm getting at about the DV is this.
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It was dumping perfectly when the car arrived to you.
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When I got it back it wasn't and the turbo was stalling out.
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I believe this is because of the massive kink in the pipe caused by the 90 degree bend.
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Had I not questioned you about it when I got home I would have driven about like that possibly damaging my turbo.
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Again, my point is poor workmanship.
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You obviously knew there was a big kink in the pipe and since you drove the car after the CC was fitted you would have heard the sound of the fluttering dump valve.
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Why leave a big kink in the pipe in the first place.
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You say it wasn't perfect but I say it's far from acceptable.
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You say I don't know what i was getting into, well plainly I didn't.
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I didn't know that basic jobs would be done to an inferior level because I was unknowingly placed into the shoe string budget category.
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When I pay for a service, any service be it cars or something else I expect the work to be done properly to a certain standard regardless of the price.
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No matter how you try and turn it back to me there are certain areas of the work you have done that are sub standard and I don't see how you can argue that any differently.
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I'm not trying to make you look bad or make you out to be a to$$er and neither have I slandered you.
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I feel I've been let down by the quality of your work and have stated my case to that end in line with the rules of this forum.
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Perhaps I should have spoken to you about this first but given your reaction when I called you about my boost controller solenoid packing up while you had the car I decided that you wouldn't be receptive to what I had to say so there was no point in trying.
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Before you jump on that statement I'm not accusing you of breaking the solenoid, I accept that it was an unfortunate coincidence and that you were not responsible for that.
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You accuse me of making a crazy post and are clearly trying to rally up your supporters against me by threatening to stop serving the MR2 community.
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Would that be response every time you got some bad press? If you do indeed decide to do that over a bad report then that's your choice.
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Let people look at the pictures and make up their own minds.
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