[Mk2] [Turbo] I can't get into my boot

[MR2_RICH]

Help please folks.

Is there a way to get into the boot if the lock will not turn and the handle does not seem to work either.

Please help.

Thanks

[MR2_RICH]

anyone got any ideas?

How do i get to the cable from the cabin? would pulling this a little tighter open the boot?

Not sure why the key doesn't work either.

[BLZ-8027]

Hi if you take off the side panel behind the drivers seat Where the seat belt fits you should be able to locate the cable and give it a good pull

[MR2_RICH]

Cheers will give it a go now and update.

thanks

ps BLZ-8027 your proving to be very useful lol

[Olly P]

Or cake the inside of the lock in WD40.

[MR2_RICH]

looks like the cable is covered in a plastic sleve.

anymore ideas?

tried wd40 and the lock no good.

out of interest which way do you turn the key in the lock? I know it sounds a supid question but the lock doesn't turn at all so not sure which way to force it.

thanks

[Olly P]

looks like the cable is covered in a plastic sleve.

anymore ideas?

tried wd40 and the lock no good.

out of interest which way do you turn the key in the lock? I know it sounds a supid question but the lock doesn't turn at all so not sure which way to force it.

thanks

Clockwise I believe from memory.

You've got to keep trying the cable or the lock in my opinion.

[JeffD]

You dont need to remove the trim panel LOL

You know wthe actual pull mechanism by the side of the seat which does both fuel and boot release? Its held to the floor with a large slotted plastic screw. Undo the scew (yiu have to pull boith levers up to get your screwdriver in) then once off you can turn it to face you and you will see the ends of both cables. You can use some thin nosed pliers to pull it and if your lucky it will release.

Saying that though, when you pull it normally is it floppy? Its just that you can lock the boot by turning the key a certain way which makes this lever inoperative. If its not this and the cable wont pull easily the cable is mpost probably had it - thats what happened to mine - it jams in the sleeve and jammed my lock shut so the key wouldnt turn and operate the lock.

If its not the above and the key is stiff try the wd40 method but does require lots of patience.

If all else fails either try a locksmith or at last resort which I did just drill the barrel out - with increasing sized ddrills until the boot pops open. You will need a new lock mechanism and barrel which costs £26 new

http://www.flashmetal.com/cylinder--key ... -380-p.asp

then a about £12 to get your lock matched tyo existing key.

[MR2_RICH]

Hi thanks for your replies - really appreciated.

The lever is not normally floppy so don't think the cable is slack. Well it is now lol

I turned the key to the left, now it will not turn either way and the cable is now slack. Do you think this is the security measure you mentioned ? makes sense in a way as when the roof is off it would be easy to get into the boot if you could not lock it.

I will try some wd40 etc before drilling the lock. Getting anoyed with it now. aaarrrrggghhhhh !!!!

[JeffD]

If the cable normally releases the lid and its just floppy simnce turning the key the other way to make it inoperatibve, sometimes it stoicks trying to get it to go back. Persevere with te wd40 method as it sounds like that. Drilling really is last resort :-(

[MR2_RICH]

Cheers for the advice guys.

I removed the cable from the lever on the floor and gave it a good pull but nothing.

Sprayed wd40 in the lock and around it. Tried the key again, no luck, tried some more wd40 and no luck. Ended up bending the key.

Will leave it a day and see if the wd40 penetrates any further but I fear I may have to drill the lock.

Out of interest if I do drill the lock, will that enable me to get into the boot? How does the lock connect to the mechanism that releases the boot? I have this horrible feeling that even if I do drill the lock as it's offset from the latch I'm going to still have problems.

[JeffD]

Drilling the lock will open the boot as the cable catch clip is attached to it - bit difficult to explain but as I was drilling the boot popped open. Secret is to drill all the way through. - I built up the drill sizes up to about 6mm - you dont need to drill tyhe hole barrel out - just destroy the circlip at the back (inside) of the barrel.

Herres a pic which is of limited help

http://www.flashmetal.com/cylinder--key ... -380-p.asp

Th eright hand piece dangling down is the stay to hold the cable release. The other 2 things on the right are the catch to pop the lock - one for normaql operation and the other ios the thing that deadlocks it and makes the cable release inoperative. Sorry for explaint that so badly! LOL

This may help a bit too
http://www.ayrpark.plus.com/epc/toyota/ ... _1993.html

[JeffD]

do do above as last resort BTW - persevere a bit more with the wd40 and try turning the lock with the key partially removed by about 1 to 2mm.

[MR2_RICH]

Thanks for the help Jeff. Top bloke.

At least I know if I have to drill then it will work.

I will keep trying the wd40 thing for the next few days and see how that goes.

I see from the website the lock in question is ideal for the rev3 conversion. The car I have is a rev2 but has rev3 lights and centre panel but rev 2 lock. So it sits back a little. So ideally I would like a rev3 lock to make it look nice. Any idea if you will get anymore in stock?

Thanks again for your help

[insanity]

Silly question, but are you using the right key on the boot? Have you ever used the key on it before? (I never locked mine... always just used the lever!)

From what I remember, there are 2 types of key, a master which unlocks everything and a sub (?), which unlocks all except the glove box and, possibly the boot!

I no longer own an MR2, so this is all from memory - it is definitely in the owners manual (that you get with the car!) under the keys section!

HTH

baz

[PFrazier]

Is your key long enough to insert into the lock completely?
OEM keys are not long enough when using a REV2 lock with a REV3 panel.

[Azzamr2]

i had this with my Rev 3, i locked the boot with the key and got my moms shopping stuck in the boot! after many minutes wondering why it wouldnt open after trying the inside pull and the key just wasnt budging!

so some WD40 later and some hoping and praying the key didnt snap the lock pinged open! never ever lock the boot with the keys just use the pull inside the car!

just wiggle the key around in it abit and keep trying just dont force it so it bends the key! it only needs gentle pursuasion!

[MR2_RICH]

Hi still no good. the boot will not budge

I have the original toyota key with the alarm built in which I assume is the master as refered to in the book. However the key that locked it was a copy. I've never used the lock before but this time I did.

Your correct the keys are not quite long enough to reach the lock with the rev3 centre panel so I cut the copy key down so it would reach and used a pair of mole grips to persuade the lock to move, hence the bending of the key.

I will keep trying. Although I think I will drill it anyway and get a new lock from JeffD if he can source one. Will look better that way.

Just frustrating that I can't get in at the mo. My locking wheel nut is in there !!!

Thanks for your help guys.

[offshore4ft]

The boot lock on mine is real stiff when using the key, i'm sure you've tried it already but i just wiggle it like mad and push the boot lid down and after about 10-15 seconds and looking extremely stupid, it works

[Azzamr2]

sounds odd but move it side to side not actually turning the key ... i did this today as mine jammed again and it opend first time

bloody locks grrr