((This was done for someone buying a G Reg)Okay, here's my mini buying guide to a early MK2 MR2.
I bought a G Reg (89/90) which was one of the first few 100 sold in the UK. It has had some problems. Here's what people should be aware off. I am not a technical expert, however I am aware of what has gone wrong with my car, how much it cost to replace, where I spotted problems before I bought and where they might develop later.
I've also put in some guide prices for basic repairs (excluding labour) and some general points about the early rev car.General: 1) Rev 1 doesn't have the
'features': EG: Power Steering, ABS, Traction Control or anything like that. Maybe you want this, maybe you don't But if you've not driven one before, be careful not to fishtail on the first round-a-bout on the way home. 2) If you don't get a T-Bar version you don't get the rear and front strut braces or something like that.
Makes it back wild. This is a good after-purchase mod. (Unless you got the 3S-FE HAHA - In which case you don't need it)Engine: 1) Watch out for the 3S-FE engine instead of the 3S-GE.
Much less HP (120 or something) vs a Rev 1 158 and the later Revs close to 190. 2) Check the Radiator on the front of the car.
Some rust is normal, and the rubber 'spring's that hold it in are usually wasted. But if it's got dents or if it has dried on coolant marks. Steer clear. 3) Open the coolant cap
(make sure Engine is off) and using a cloth, dip in. If coolant is clear, this is a good sign. If there are oily bubbles in it... BAD sign. IF you can't see any liquid, top it off until you can and repeat above steps. Coolant should be red. However my experience with viewing three was that they'd used other coolant than standard. Up to you on this, try to find the Redline stuff.4) Engine Fan
(Right side). After you've been for your drive (see later), park the car and leave the engine on. Check this fan comes on. If it doesn't, ask about it lots. These can fail, (although sometimes the engine is a b1tch in turning them on). Expensive replace. 5) Does it have the original air-box? It does? Good, you can mod it
If it doesn't check the filter, see if it's been cleaned etc. If it looks soggy / natty, that is a good £30+ to replace. 6) Remove the carpet in the boot, check the ECU, should be on the left hand side.
Make sure all the wires coming out of it look fine. No rust on the box, should be nice and shiney Brakes & Suspension: 1) Calipers can be a nightmare, if it's been standing outside for a while, they often bind.
This causes the pads to burn and if they're cheap discs they can fracture. It's expensive. Hard to check unless you take the wheels off and examine the play on the both the SLIDERS and the PISTONs on each side. If they're missing seals, uh-oh. Expensive replacement. 2) As you go for a drive, listen for knocks from weak
/ broken drop links. 3) If you can, get it on a MOT ramp, lift it and do the suspension juggle.
In other words press the wheel up, if it makes a knocking sound you may have knackered suspension. It should be possible to push the wheel up into the arch without much noise and let it drop smoothly. 4) While you're at it, check the pads for wear.
Ideally they should have the metal spring still on them to help with pad release. If not, they should have a good amount of wear left in them. 5) Test the Hand-Break! See if you can move the car
(gently) with the hand-break engaged. Try gently using power. If the car moves, the hand-break cables may be screwed, or someone did their break replacements wrong. Body: 1) Remove the spare wheel and check for rust under it.
That's the drain pan in there, if it's quite rusty you can fail a MOT. 2) Check for rust under-neath, can't stress this enough.
3) Check the Oil-Sump specifically for rust.
A new one isn't that expensive and you can get a oil change done at the same time, but still, might as well start with a good one. £50 - £70.4) Place to also check for rust: Wind-screen wiper arms and assembly, bottom of the door edges.
Around the T-Bar (take it out, and does it have original bags / shades?) Also look for Rust, wheel arches etc. Some rust is normal. GET THE t-cut out Exhaust: 1) Peer into the Engine bay and check under the top heatshield.
If it's an original downpipe / manifold etc then there will be some surface rust etc. But make sure you can't see any holes etc. Turn the Engine on, listen, go down low (watch out for fumes) and look around the exits and backbox for leaks (blowing). Try not to buy one with a really pranged backbox. 2) Check for mis-fires and smoke on start-up.
Excessive white smoke could indicate a gasket problem, while other colour smoke can indicate problems from engine piston seal failure to oil burn. Stay away. 3) Rev the engine, check for smoke again.
Check for 'stutter' on the Rev's especially as you go through 1 - 3.5k revs. If it's not happy picking up, then why bother. You want performance. Repeat this, vroom vroom. Going for a drive: 1) Go for a range of a drive.
Do some high speed, some low speed. Town stop / start and if possible motorway at 80-90mph (max speed you should take it ever) See if it feels lumpy, unresponsive etc. Check that the vibrations through the steering wheel aren't bad at higher speeds (this indicates a number of possibilities; alignment, balancing, braking problems).1aa) Brake hard
(but in a safe way) Check for pull to one side or the other.1a) Specifically, before you start, open the door and use the clutch a couple of times.
If you can hear a loud squeak from under the car, uh-oh Maybe new clutch, maybe just needs an oiling. 1b) While driving, check your Engine Revs.
After a while they should sit pretty at 900 - 1100 when on idle and should NOT drop below 800. In other words, if it start's dipping when you apply the clutch and perhaps the car seems like it's about to stall... walk away. Too many problems can cause this, it's not worth it (although it can be as simple and cheap as the throttle assemble needing a clean). 1bb) Check that getting into all gears is easy enough.
Try switching between Reverse and 1st a few times, these can be annoying gears.1c) Check when you leave the car all the lights.
Get a mate to do a walk-round. Front Fogs, Rear Fogs, brake and night lights. Check indicators and check internal lights in the car. (Red ones in the doors) White above the console etc. Check the pop-ups. If one is slower than the other, or if one has an issue being raised, you may be looking at a motor failure. Quite cheap to replace. 1f) Finally after all this
(and after you've been for your drive in the car). Ask to move it. Check under the car for fluid leaks. (Nothing beats getting something to go wrong than a drive ) Asking questions: 1) Has it had a cam-belt change at OR BEFORE the manafacturer's recomended time?!
2) Oil changes, what do you use, when did you last do it, how often do you do it.
3) Where have you kept it overnight?
4) Is it HPI clear? Got the report? You going to make me pay to get a report on your car?
(If they say yes to the last question, kick them in the head). 5) Ever used the spare tyre? Do you have the original Tool Kit?
Mods:1) You can; Mod the Body easily.
2) You can; Mod the brakes, suspension and wheels easily.
3) You can't; Mod the Engine easily.
Air-filter, sparks, exhaust, de-cat. That's about it without spending stupid money.Typical costs:Tax: 1 year;
£195 (Max bracket)Mods: Air-Filter
(Decent) £60Mods: Exhaust
(Decent including down-pipe, decat) £350-500Mods: Nice discs and pads:
£80 per disc + pads.Mods: Bodykits: get a good one that fits.
Anywhere from £400 - over £1000etc etc
Sure I've missed some stuff out, but as I said, these are things that I checked for, or things that later went wrong for me.
Edit: Please also check out:
http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/kb.php?mode=article&k=48
For another look
(with more info) on buying a NA.
