[Mk2] [Turbo] rev1 boost presure on std fueling.

[jimGTS]

most ems are still geared towards the rev3 tho dude, so there would be a conversion of some kind which ever way you go.
cam is easy enough, its the reshimming dude where the time and money goes.

[Hellboy]

you should be able to run more that 13psi??

i dont think the ecu throws the injector cycle to 100% after 13psi??

i had basically the same mods as you with a fuel cut defender and was running 1.1-1.2 bar with no problems.

granted the injector cycle would have been pretty high but as long as i did not take he p1$$ with the boost (or get spike) everthing should be ok

simmo

it will got t0 100% after 13psi , gets to 92% at 7K on stock boost according to the HKS Camp

[redmr89]

sooooo. what would sort the fueling out? cant afford a standalone right now. so what about a piggyback like the dastek?

[JAP BOY]

Redmr89 i'd have your emissions checked as that might highlight whats happening or where your Horses are escaping!

Check for error codes also mate or your O2 sensor or Airflow meter which doen't go alot but check these and see what they bring up!

Good Luck and let us know how you get on!

[redmr89]

Redmr89 i'd have your emissions checked as that might highlight whats happening or where your Horses are escaping!

Check for error codes also mate or your O2 sensor or Airflow meter which doen't go alot but check these and see what they bring up!

Good Luck and let us know how you get on!

its just passed mot, with quite low emisions. but r/r guy said it was overfueling badly up the range. altho didnt give me a printout of the fuel graph. so ive nothin to analise.

i do regular error code checks and get nothing to do with the afm or os sensor

im gonna get it back on the rollers at durham soon and get him to print out my fueling graph.


strange thing is with my car. it runs really good at low boost ie about 0.7 bar . its really smooth and a good drive i really like it at this level it drives like an n/a with no kick in the ass boost coming on.

i run it at 1 bar which feals fast to me. it runs well but the r/r graph says otherwise..

on another note. when i accidentally turned it upto 1.2-1.3 bar the car was massively diffrent. it felt much much quicker. it sounded better and drove better , boost came on quicker and it was much more lively. id love to run it at this level but im scared its too high for my mods on a rev1.

[JAP BOY]

1.2 or 1.3 can in my veiw can only be done for short times dont do it too often though!
Also try getting a fuel Regulator which could help eliminate the over fueling by raising the rail pressure which gets rid of this problem of throwing the injectors into 1000% DC above 13psi!

Try this and let us know how you get on !

[ast]

I would quess that when you increase boost to 1.2 - 1.3 bar ECU is unable to feed any more fuel as it's already running ~100% duty cycle. As you are packing in more air with higher boost your mixture will be leaner and maybe closer to the optimal.

Increasing rail pressure will only make the problem worse as injected amount of fuel depends on the following things:
- fuel incjector size
- fuel injector opening time
- pressure difference over the injector (rail pressure - manifold pressure)

Get to the dyno and if everything looks nice at 1.2 -1.3 bar why not run that? Of course you have to make sure that there are no boost spikes that would trow the mixture dangerously lean and that the engine is not knocking so badly that the ECU cannot correct it by pulling the ignition. Also stronger headgasket would be a good idea and you should monitor inlet temperatures to avoid heat soaking the intercooler.

[JAP BOY]

AST over fueling will be there due the nature of the REv1s + Rev 2s to do this over 13psi what i'm saying is that fitting a FPR will eliminate the issue with 100% DC at over 13 psi! My mistake on the last post though as i type wrong with the Overfueling

[turbomax]

digging up old stuff. i have been running 1.2 bar for ages done countless 1/4 miles and hours on the track. and the car loves it i have run 1.3 but it makes no more power so no point. i run a blitz access ecu and charge cooler system and mods to keep intake temps down as much as possible this combined with good fuel and ignation system all tip top condition makes car run well.
i am now fitting a tdo5-16g to the car with stand alone greedy injector controler external wastegate and few other bits to try and get 350bhp as the car is at 303bhp now. every one says rev3 is the way to go but to be honest in the real world i have raced a lot of rev 3 and am not impressed. the mr2 seems to differ from car to car and can never be said rev 3 is the best on paper maybe. even factory figs for 1/4 mile will say rev 1 is quicker

[JAP BOY]

Do agree turbo max alot of people seem to give the rev1/2 pretty low rating against the Rev3 but apart from a few differences the car is practically the same! Dont see what thats special apart from some tuning options!!

[Wingers]

1.2 or 1.3 can in my veiw can only be done for short times dont do it too often though!

I take it thats not on std internals is it?
I thought 1 bar - 1.1 bar was maximum for std pistons.

[2Crooky]

If a rev 3 ecu needs mapping to run coshure......is it not worth just going for bigger injectors, fuel pump and a stand alone????

[JAP BOY]

Wingers the pistons and internals can take up to 350hp i think i've even seen in BAnzai a chap running 400hp with stock internals you've just got to make sure your state of tune is done properly also i'm sure some rev 3s run around 1.2 -1.3 occasionally!!

[Wingers]

OK i didn't realise that.
I think i'll keep my rev 1 pegged back to 1.0 though

Wingers

[JAP BOY]

Wingers if you get a CT20 running on your Rev1 you can run around 18 psi if fueling will allow you to but most people tend to go for a CT20 Uprated injectors plus Standalone to maximise most of the mods !!

[Wingers]

It's very tempting but i'm not really looking to spend that much.
So far I've just got a downpipe, exhaust and air filter. I'm looking to up the boost and remove the TVIS next but i'm not really looking to spend hundreds. Maybe once i'm bored with 15psi

Wingers

[mr2mikey]

The rev 1 fuelling was designed to run the ct26 - not the ct20b, and there fore will run out of info on what to do past the 5k rpm range.

A rev 2 ecu may change things slightly as i had no problems at all running a ct20b on my old rev2.

As the guys have saifd though, £400 is should get you a nice after market such as the e-mannage from Greddy. You van then get it mapped safely on a rolling road, or even realtime driving on the road. This would also allow you to advance your ignition timing slightly if neccesary. This should cure your nasty fuelling, as with those mods you should be seeing at least 260 at the fly, even on a rev 1

HTH

Cheers

Mike