Its basically the same for all cars

- get the sensor hot first

(needs to be at

~400C to work at all) and hold at steady engine revs.

The ECU will then try to fine tune the fuel air mix, going either side of the ideal

- which means you will see a voltage output between 0v and 0.8-0.9v from the sensor, changing rapidly

(the needle will

'wag')

Has your NA got an airflow meter? Would be also worth checking that, as if the output from that isn't smooth as the flap inside opens that would also cause popping/banging as the ECU gets the air/fuel ratio wrong.
