high revs

[massari]

Since I have owned my SW20 (which has only been 3 months) it has idled very high for the first couple of minutes, at just under 2000 RPM 17000 ish... then I assume after its warmed up it calms down, anyone know why this could be?

I've had it at the garage all week trying to solve other problems, from a rattle from the engine which has turned out to be a tensioner on the timing belt, may also need a new heat sheild because the old one has cracked, could these be the cause? Getting it back this evening to see...


Thanks

[orangewinger]

Mine does this, isn't it meant to do this and is just the automatic choke?

[Ian Geary]

high revs is normal when cold - just a "feature" of these engines.

Rattles could be heatshield related - they tend to rust where the bolts hold them on.

Not sure about the tensioner - mine have been replaced, so can't help with this.

hth

Ian

[Leon.]

Those are quite high starting revs tbh. Your thermostats could have gone west....?

[monkeychild]

Mine does this. I put it down to standing cold for most of the time.

[massari]

Thanks for the replys, got the timing belt fixed sounds alot better but still some minor rattles from the engine, sounds a little like there may be a hole in the exhaust... anyway Leeroy you say could be the thermostat? Any more info on that please?

also Ian do you have any idea at how much it would cost for a new Heat sheild?



Thank you

[Daston]

The 1700 - 2000 is a toyota thing my old MR2 used to do this and so does my Supra its just to warm the engine up quicker.

[Leon.]

How long does it take your car to warm up? They should take about 5 minutes driving to warm up...

800-900rpm is normal warm temperature idling speed, depending on if you have lights/heater on etc. Do you get any fluctuations, and is yours around this figure?

1700 - 2000 is not normal I'm afraid, for rev 3 MR2s at least. Do a poll on here if you don't believe me. Most cars should run 1200-1500 max when cold, rev 3 plus anyway. Daston, are you running a stock ECU?

[massari]

Hi Leeroy ,

As far as im aware, nothing has been modded in the engine, im pretty sure of that, it is my brothers old car he owned it for the past 5ish years,

After 5 minutes I think it calms down to about 900RPM so its ok then, but it does rev at approx 17,000 to 18,000 when it starts up ... I spoke to a garage about it and they recomended I take it to another garage, which can connect it to a computer and see what the issue is...

(how ever they didnt seem too sure them selves, I noticed alot of Garages HATE mr2's because they are so difficult to work on, just to get a garage to have a proper look at my engine bay and realise that my timing belt was about to go took me a month! )

It has done over 175,000 miles so I guess the engine is soon to die

(In that sense I guess its not wise that I spent £900 in general mechanical repairs since I have had it which is 4 months

[chiefymcchief]

Hi massari,

Got a 91 mr2 na myself.

When start up from cold she revs at 1500 rpm til warm, about 5 mins. when cold in winter have had the engine revving at 1750 to 1850 rpm for 2 mins then slows to 1500. When warm always seems to idle at 800 rpm.

Never worried about it to be honest fella ... always done this in 2 years of owning and been told by reputable mechanics that engine is in v good condition

My two peneth, for what it is worth

Ross

[massari]

ok cool , thanks for the help! I think I have been spending alot of time looking for faults with the car since I have owned it as im worried about its high mileage 175,000... so I leave that as it is...

Thank you

[jimGTS]

mines never gone past 1200-1300 when cold....

[Daston]

My MR2 was had stupid milage on it so that dosnt really count think it hit 1700ish for a min then droped to 1200 for the rest of the time. As for the supra all stock may be the 2JZ-GE engine needs that little bit more to warm up.

[massari]

I got some other faults with the car which are niggling at me too I posted this as another topic but no one has replied yet ...When I drive in a straight line it veers slightly to the left, then when I break it goes left for a while, then right, then left etc.. and ends up pretty much in the same spot...

Also it seems to waver badly in accelerating through gears 2 and 3 at low revs, I just had the cam belt fixed but on the first day after it was fine but now it has become really bad in spluttering (when the car is ideling it seems to "miss a beat" every second ...is this a different problem to the cambelt as I've been told my "HT" leads need a change as they are "dodgy"
Any ideas?


The changes I have had done recently is;

front shocks,
front brake pads,
cam belt & tensioners,

front tracking and chamber check done,

I check the tyre psi regularly, I put them at 32 psi, it has 17 inch Kosei racer alloys on it.

[Leon.]

Check your suspension is all nice and tight with no loose nuts etc. Re. alignment, maybe your rears aren't aligned properly but the fronts are aligned properly to the rears, and so everything is out? Is there any play in your steering wheel/rack? Do you have a sticking caliper - after a drive go round all wheels and put your hand on them to see if they are all about the same temperature. If not, you may well have a sticking caliper...

Who did the cambelt change, perhaps the timing is screwed up...?

Splutterig, miss fires and flat spots are normally ignition problems. Firstly, check your HT leads boots are pushed into the spark plug chambers properly, and at the other end too. Check the chambers for oil too while you're at it. Unless your HT leads are knackered and you know/can see they are, I'd change plugs first. If that doesn't solve it then try distributor cap with rotor arm, and HT leads last as they are the most expensive.

[massari]

Thank you soooo much for your advice Leeroy ... I have taken the car down to a Garage and they said the HT lead ends where it goes into the sparks have fallen off into the sockets because the rubber has corrorded! So they are changing this as I type, I forgot to metion I replaced the Sparks plugs about a week ago, so it can't be them...

I havn't checked the calipers for heat after a drive yet, but they were fitted by a garage and everytime I take it down I ask for them to have a glance at the whole car incase anything else needs changing (e.g. rear pads, shocks etc - dosnt mean they do check it though ).

When I had the front tracking and Chamber check done it was with a lazer "thingy" as I watched them do this... do that mean its been tracked to the rears? If so they I guess Ill get it all tracked again.

Once again thank you so much for your advice Leeroy and to everyone else on this forum, I would probably be waiting for the AA to pick me up with twice the amount in bills if it wasn't for peoples advice.

Thanks

[Leon.]

You're welcome mate, I just try and offer help where I can - I'm not nearly as knowledgebale as some of the guys on here but happy to lend a hand

Its only reading posts on IMOC for nearly a couple of years that's increased my knowledge base, wonderful site and generous people =D>

That's why I like to be a premium member to give a little back, and try and help advise... you'll notice my premium membership doesn't exist atm, this is because my Paypal account is limited and I can't make payments - should be sorted by the end of the week though so I'll be renewing again

Now, back to important matters. Your alignment. How much did it cost? I recently found out there are 2 main types of 4 wheel laser alignment. The first one costs about £25-30, and just sets up the fronts in relation to the rears, so if the rears are out then you'll be all over the shop. The second one costs probably anything between £60 and £150 depending on how much work needs to be done to align everything up. WIM, wheels in motion has been recommended to me.

However, alignment may not be the only issue, although I would get this done first and see if it sorts it...

HTH

[massari]

Hey Leeroy ,
sorry about late reply, I dont have the net at home!
Sure is the IMOC membership only £5 per year? If so then sure ill be a memeber, thats like 1% of the costs on my car lol, so wont notice it!

I had the front tracking done at Dextel Garage in Sheffield which was done with some sort of lazer for £25, so I guess it is possible it was tracked to the rears, I think though that the car wasn't veering left after that, but im not 100% sure. Could it be the fact that my left rear tyre is alot more worn than the other? (apparantly this happens as I drive round too many round abouts fast?)

One the other problems... I had the HT leads & sparks replaced and the car runs ALOT smoother now, however it does seem to waver VERY slightly still when disengaging the cluth, passengers havn't noticed it as it is so slight, but when I point it out to them they seem to agree with me

Any ideas?

[Leon.]

What model do you have?

Have you changed the distributor cap and rotor arm too?

Other possibilities for your symptom are knackered sensors and thermistat.

I'd recommend doing your dizzy cap though if you've not done that yet. Do a search on here for sensors that may have gone west, lambda sensor IIRC...