Engine removal pics!!

[Paul R]

Hi,

Here are the latest pics of the removal of my 3s-GTE engine. For any of you who followed my original post, the manifold is blowing amongst other things!

but upon removing the engine I can see that the car has a rev2 manifold on the rev1 head!! So two of the stud holes have no stud through them!!

Has anyone else done this to their rev1?? Should it work OK? I'm not sure if the manifold is blowing BECAUSE it has a rev2 manifold on it?

Should I get a rev1 manifold or stick with this one?

Anyway, here are the pics:

www.pradbone.f2s.com/car%20build/DSCF0075.JPG
www.pradbone.f2s.com/car%20build/DSCF0077.JPG
www.pradbone.f2s.com/car%20build/DSCF0078.JPG
www.pradbone.f2s.com/car%20build/DSCF0080.JPG
www.pradbone.f2s.com/car%20build/DSCF0081.JPG
www.pradbone.f2s.com/car%20build/DSCF0082.JPG
www.pradbone.f2s.com/car%20build/DSCF0083.JPG
www.pradbone.f2s.com/car%20build/DSCF0084.JPG
www.pradbone.f2s.com/car%20build/DSCF0085.JPG


Cheers,

Paul.

[lund]

Soory I cant help with your question but whoever put the manifold on must have thought that it was so over engineered that it dint need all those fiddle little bolts and so what if it didnt line up with the holes!!!

My cars also jacked up in the air like yours at the mo.

When i first stripped my engine down I discovered that I also had a few bolts missing, I belive this is what caused my exhaust manifold to crack.

I hope you have better luck than I have in sorting it fella

[JJ]

but upon removing the engine I can see that the car has a rev2 head on the rev1 block!! So two of the stud holes have no stud through them!!

So technically yours is a rev 2 now ?? no real difference to the block other than the nozzle coming off the rear of the block for the piping network and the throttle body being a direct connection to the butterfly / throttle opposed to going through a reduced gear mechanism.

Actually, from what I can just work out is yours has had a rev 2 exhaust manifold fitted to a rev 1 engine. two of the bolts won't bolt up !

This flange will probably where your exhaust is blowing - inconsitant boosting ??

It'll have the wrong gasket for the clamping down of the ex. manifold.

If its any tip to your work, the alloy head is soft, I mean soft in terms of bolting up into. when you refit the head / manifold, see if you can put the studs in first, then when your bolting up, your bolting up to the studs opposed to bolting the studs into the head - ripping the threads out.

Do that, and you can avoid much hard work tapping a bigger hole and looking for a larger stud / bolt.

How did you find the job in general ?? okay ?? not that bad of a car to work on... unless every single bolts is rusted on !

[Paul R]

but upon removing the engine I can see that the car has a rev2 head on the rev1 block!! So two of the stud holes have no stud through them!!

So technically yours is a rev 2 now ?? no real difference to the block other than the nozzle coming off the rear of the block for the piping network and the throttle body being a direct connection to the butterfly / throttle opposed to going through a reduced gear mechanism.

Actually, from what I can just work out is yours has had a rev 2 exhaust manifold fitted to a rev 1 engine. two of the bolts won't bolt up !

This flange will probably where your exhaust is blowing - inconsitant boosting ??

It'll have the wrong gasket for the clamping down of the ex. manifold.

If its any tip to your work, the alloy head is soft, I mean soft in terms of bolting up into. when you refit the head / manifold, see if you can put the studs in first, then when your bolting up, your bolting up to the studs opposed to bolting the studs into the head - ripping the threads out.

Do that, and you can avoid much hard work tapping a bigger hole and looking for a larger stud / bolt.

How did you find the job in general ?? okay ?? not that bad of a car to work on... unless every single bolts is rusted on !

Your abolustely right mate - a rev2 manifold on a rev1 head (edited my post to be correct! )

So do I need a rev2 exhaust manifold gasket? - would it then seal correctly?

Your spot on with the inconsistent boosting - thats exactly what it was doing and making a high pitch whistling noise on tickover.

I've sourced a newer rev2 manifold with ct20 turbo and downpipe to replace the one on the car - will this be OK?

The job wasnt too bad at all, except for a couple of seized bolts and a few innacessible ones too.

Paul.

[Paul R]

Soory I cant help with your question but whoever put the manifold on must have thought that it was so over engineered that it dint need all those fiddle little bolts and so what if it didnt line up with the holes!!!

My cars also jacked up in the air like yours at the mo.

When i first stripped my engine down I discovered that I also had a few bolts missing, I belive this is what caused my exhaust manifold to crack.

I hope you have better luck than I have in sorting it fella

Hi,

The manifold does line up, it just has two extra holes as it's for a later revision car!!

Why did you drop your engine?

Paul.

[lund]

Hi Paul

I dropped my engine this time because of a cracked piston this was months ago have got some forged arias pistons off Chris Huntley and fitted them last weekend. Still have the rest of the head to build up as one of the valveswas starting to pull through.

I am really begining to wish that I had not dropped the engine instead just dropped the whole car..... off a cliff but as I live in Essex theres not many of them around!

[JJ]

I've sourced a newer rev2 manifold with ct20 turbo and downpipe to replace the one on the car - will this be OK?

Check to see the flanges match up alright ... ideallly the rev 1 manifold should be fitted, but you can often getaway with the rev 2.... all dependant on if it was all torqued up correctly or was it simply bolted up at different torque settings.

The two faces are perfectly straight, so the gasket should seal either rev 1 or 2.

Rev 1's had problems with the manifolds cracking hence the rev 2 was revised... the chances are, your has been down that route and been changeout with a rev 2 one.

Sort out the flange and the rest of the turbo should bolt up without a problem.

At most, the turbo support bracket under the turbo fitting to the block will be in a slightly different position - you can get away not fitting this if it poses to be a problem.

[Paul R]

Hi,

I stripped the Manifold, Turbo, cat pipe and clutch off today.

I can clearly see that the manifold was blowing from the right hand side. This is because the threads are stripped and the bolts cant be tightened up enough.

So the next job is to get the head off and get it over to Chris Wilson to work some magic!!

then it's all back together with all new bits, back in the car.

After that I'm working on the suspension and bodywork!

Couple of pics......Will get some of the head after xmas!

www.pradbone.f2s.com/car%20build/DSCF0086.JPG
www.pradbone.f2s.com/car%20build/DSCF0088.JPG

Paul.