Help!! MR2 Turbo Problem.

[Cliff]

I've only had my car since Friday just gone, but noticed only yesterday that the car makes a weird noise before the BOV lets off its hiss, like a vvrrrpp.

However, today it has got worse because I've noticed that the car doesn't seem to boost right? I plant it in 2nd gear up to about 70 - 80 KM and the boost gauge only reads about half way.

I use Shell Optimax, so I wouldn't have thought it was a knock related problem.

Can anyone help!?!?! (Any advice is much appreciated)

(Mods, I've also posted this in the Mechanical section, please feel free to delete either posts)

[Renegade]

Are your hoses conncected to your bov torn? or if your bov has a piston maybe it stuck open

[Ed]

You don't mention what revision your car is. The vrrrp as you put it might be caused by the vtv. The sound can be like a farting noise. The vtv is a one way valve that is right next to where the standard bov is located.

Do you have an after market bov fitted and or an induction kit. Either one of these might accentuate the noise from the vtv.

As for whether the car is boosting properly, do not rely on the standard boost gauge. It's more like an on/off switch. It only tells you whether the car is making boost or not. When booting it does the car feel like it is hesitating or does the power feel smooth.

If you are unsure as to whether it is producing the correct amount of boost your best bet is either to get it checked out by a garage or to buy an aftermarket boost gauge.


HTH Ed

[Cliff]

Are your hoses conncected to your bov torn? or if your bov has a piston maybe it stuck open

Just had a look at the BOV and all the hoses seem to be fine. A mate of mine just came down and we took it for a spin and it seemed much better. .

You don't mention what revision your car is. The vrrrp as you put it might be caused by the vtv. The sound can be like a farting noise. The vtv is a one way valve that is right next to where the standard bov is located.

Do you have an after market bov fitted and or an induction kit. Either one of these might accentuate the noise from the vtv.

As for whether the car is boosting properly, do not rely on the standard boost gauge. It's more like an on/off switch. It only tells you whether the car is making boost or not. When booting it does the car feel like it is hesitating or does the power feel smooth.

If you are unsure as to whether it is producing the correct amount of boost your best bet is either to get it checked out by a garage or to buy an aftermarket boost gauge.


HTH Ed

Sorry, the car is a REV 1 and yes it is like a farting noise. Is this normal then? The car does feel like it hesitates and by planting the throttle, the revs only increase very slowly, however, this fault is only intermittent.

I currently have the standard BOV and a HKS mushroom filter. Would these make a difference/cause a problem?

Thanks for your help so far guys.

[BenF]

Hmmm ...

You running Super unleaded?

If the car is standard, and the VSV hasn't been bypassed, with temps below 4-6C it will limit boost to 7psi.

As for the noise - it could be compressor turbine wheel stall - if the BOV is set to only release pressure at very high pressure this could be happening, but I'd be quite surprised.

Is there any chance of you taking an audio clip of the noise and uploading it to a website, and posting a link to it here?

[Cliff]

Hmmm ...

You running Super unleaded?

If the car is standard, and the VSV hasn't been bypassed, with temps below 4-6C it will limit boost to 7psi.

As for the noise - it could be compressor turbine wheel stall - if the BOV is set to only release pressure at very high pressure this could be happening, but I'd be quite surprised.

Is there any chance of you taking an audio clip of the noise and uploading it to a website, and posting a link to it here?

I use Shell Optimax, which I believe is 99 RON? and I normally warm it up for about 5 minutes before I drive away.

I'll see if I can arange an audio clip to be taken, however it only happens intermittently.

In your experiences does the boost gauge go straight to the top as soon as you plant it in second or should it go up gradually?

[Driftlimits Performance]

It goes up gradually, but should be reading just over the + mark by about 3.5k/4k rpm.

[Ed]

I currently have the standard BOV and a HKS mushroom filter. Would these make a difference/cause a problem?

Thanks for your help so far guys.

The farting noise you hear is normal. You hear it because of the mushroom filter that is installed. If you had the standard air box on the car you wouldn't hear it because of the restricutions in theairbox that muffle the sound. If you wwant to get rid of it you would have to remove the vtv or reverse it and this will help reduce the farting noise, although neither of theser are good ideas with the standard bov as they may effect the operation.

In your experiences does the boost gauge go straight to the top as soon as you plant it in second or should it go up gradually?

Like I said in the previous post, the standard boost gauge is only good for telling you if you are making boost or not. It shouldn't be relied on to try and indicate how much boost or how quickly it is being made.

If you are really concerned about it then get an aftermarket boost gauge fitted.

As for the intermittent possible hesitation. Your best bet is to check and replace as necessary the spark plugs, HT Leads, distributor cap and rotor arm. Also recheck all of the hoses for splits or being loose.

HTH Ed

[Paul R]

also,

remember that it's cold and the ECU may cut the boost to .6 bar because of this.

Paul.

[Cliff]

Thanks for all your help and advice everyone.

Ed, thanks as you've put my mind at rest with regards to the farting noise.
I will be changing the plugs and HT leads soon and installing an aftermarket boost gauge.

[Cliff]

OK, a little update for you guys.

I haven't done the above just yet, but yesterday I experienced this problem again and thought I would be able to describe it better.

On full throttle the car will jump forward for a split second and then hesitate. If I keep on full throttle the revs do not rise and it sounds like the engine is struggling. It will then jump forward again and then hesitate again.

To cure this problem temporarily I flick it into neutral and give the car a few revs to check its ok. By this time I find it revving freely, so I put it back into gear and the car seems fine.

Would the change of plugs and HT leads, possibly be a cure for the problem I've described.

I'm sorry to keep on going on about this, but its really got me concerned.

Thanks for any advice at all.

[dan.h]

i get a very loud farty noise when i lift off the happy pedal slowly when boosting on a motorway or dual carrige way.

i think it is the metal shroud on my apexi induction kit vibrating rapidly, but i am not too sure...

[DeusMR2]

Would the change of plugs and HT leads, possibly be a cure for the problem I've described.

Thanks for any advice at all.

Symptoms you describe are classic examples of a deteriorating ignition system so yes a full makeover in that department would do the trick

The farting noise is just the bov venting back into the pre-turbo intake, not the metal shroud. Its perfectly normal!

[Cliff]

Cheers Deus, thats exactly what I wanted to hear.

[Driftlimits Performance]

check plugs, dizzy cap, rotor arm.

[Cliff]

check plugs, dizzy cap, rotor arm.

Cheers for the reply Skywalker.

Will do the above first before the HT leads. Hopefully it is just one of the above.

[Driftlimits Performance]

No probs

Once I was going down the motorway, and all of sudden it was jerking around big time when trying to put it under any kind of load. Got somewhere convenient, had a looky and my plugs had worked loose! so there's crap all coming out the sides. Threw them away anywho, replaced with some platinum plugs and it fixed instantly.

[Cliff]

I phoned my local Toyota dealership to enquire about servicing and fitting plugs, HT leads, distributor cap, rotor arm, etc and they told me I will have to bring it in as they will need to determine if I needed platinum plugs or not???

I asked, (it may have been a stupid question and please correct me if I'm wrong), "can I not just use platinum plugs anyway?"

They then said no because each car is different and they need to determine what was installed when it was first manufactured.

Can anyone shed any light on this? I obviously want to get the best plugs for my MR2 Turbo and was looking at getting some TRD ones.

Any advice is very much appreciated..

[Driftlimits Performance]

Where do you live mate?

Dizzy cap, plugs and rotor arm can be done yourself without too much hassle. Or someone one here to show you how its done. MrT would charge you shed loads!

[Cliff]

I'm in the South London area mate.

Don't get me wrong, I'm happy to do it myself. I was initially enquiring about servicing and cambelt so I can get the service book stamped, so while I was on the phone I asked them about supplying the plugs.

Then they started telling me how I needed to bring it in to determine the type of plugs I needed.

Are they right in saying this?