Mambatek actuator with Greddy.

[stecad]

Currently replacing stock actuator with Mambatek unit. Stock actuator has 2 ports and Mambatek only 1. MR2 MkII, Rev II.
Stock actuator has right hand port linked to manifold vac line and left hand port into Turbo vac port. Greedy is spliced in with a T-piece.

Support from Mambatek is hopeless and no videos on google.
I'm thinking that the single port on the Mambatek plumbs into the Turbo vac port with the Greddy spliced into same line with a T-piece.


Any advice/pics to help?
thanks

[SonicSW20]

Stock has two ports because stock has its own boost control. The 2nd port connects to a stock bleed valve / solenoid.

The Mamba units come with multiple springs, so first I would run it with no boost controller in the loop at all - hose from boost reference on turbo direct to actuator. This is to confirm at what pressure the spring opens The supplied springs are colour coded but will probably open at a lower pressure than stated.

Once you've got it working correctly in that configuration, just connect the boost controller as per instructions.

[Ryan S]

Also keep in mind the aftermarket ones are adjustable so make sure you give it some preload or it will open earlier than you want.

[platmatt8]

Yup, you need a line from turbo port to new actuator with solenoid spliced in.

You also need to blank off the old vac line from the manifold.

[stecad]

Many thanks. Always worth checking in. Hardest part looks like getting access to the wastegate level to remove the stock unit. A few hours with the spanners for something that should take minutes.

[SonicSW20]

You're doing it with the turbo still in the car? Have fun

[Ryan S]

You'd save yourself a lot of time pulling the turbo mate. It seems daunting but once you get stuck in its not too bad.

[stecad]

There's a guy on Youtube who does it "in car". On looking at it from underneath I've spotted a slight oil weep from the turbo area so decided to pull it all out. I rebuilt it with engine out 18 months ago so the bolts shouldn't be too bad.
Thanks for all the advice.

[stecad]

Just a tip for anyone doing same job. The actuator arm (the adjustable part with the eye) jams against the turbo housing as it operates on the wastegate lever. The shoulder on the eye needs to be filed down slightly and a washer placed underneath the stud on the wastegate lever. This raises the arm slightly and profiles the eye to allow full free movement of the actuator arm.