Turbo revival attempt

[pope_acute]

Well fell out with my mr2 over a year ago, after spending loads to get it fixed then it broke on my...so been sitting in driveway since. But with new weather and renewed interest i've started to try to tackle the resurrection myself and learn as i go. (not over mechanically minded).

I've really started this post to keep my right, and hopefully you good folk point out what i'm doing wrong.

I think the big end bearing has rung around? is that makes sense and scored the hell out of the crank at the same time. So it's an engine out job , re'ground the crank and get some oversized bearings...that's the general plan.

There was an guide on here relating to a mk1 on how to fit bearings with engine in situ. Inspired by that guide i wanted to confirm bear and crank issues. But i cant get the bottom end of the end off. Is this possible with mk2?

here are some photos for your amusement:
my set up,

think there is some metal in the oil?

bits in the sump

trying a bit of restore is this too far gone to save? Was thinking of grinding back and using rust converter type spray, or primer rust one?

[SonicSW20]

I have a good 3S crank available if you need it.

From a 1999 3SGE, but NA and turbo cranks are exactly the same.

[pope_acute]

I have a good 3S crank available if you need it.

From a 1999 3SGE, but NA and turbo cranks are exactly the same.

nice one, ill pm you.

[mr2garageswindon]

The crank can be removed with the engine in place but by the time you have removed gearbox, clutch, rear main oil seal, then cam belt and oil pump struggling with it in place.
I'd say much easier with the engine removed and you can address any other issues you come across along the way.

[SonicSW20]

Agreed. Can stick it on an engine stand and makes everything nice and easy.

Removing and installing an engine on an SW20 isn't too bad even on a driveway. Use an engine hoist to lift the whole car up off the engine and slide the engine out.

[pope_acute]

The crank can be removed with the engine in place but by the time you have removed gearbox, clutch, rear main oil seal, then cam belt and oil pump struggling with it in place.
I'd say much easier with the engine removed and you can address any other issues you come across along the way.

thanks for that never knew that was what it would take...yeah engine out then.

this makes sense why this wouldn't come out...glad i never tried to force it, as it wouldn't drop easily i figured there must be something up...i thought i needed a specific tool for the corner bit with the square hole...so far from the truth

[pope_acute]

Agreed. Can stick it on an engine stand and makes everything nice and easy.

Removing and installing an engine on an SW20 isn't too bad even on a driveway. Use an engine hoist to lift the whole car up off the engine and slide the engine out.

yeah seen a few vids on youtube folk doing that..time to purchase engine hoist and engine stand... need to look through the old pdf manual i have to see the process of removal...unless there's a short cut/better version?

[pope_acute]

are these yellow billies too far gone also?( maybe should change post topic to "Too far gone!?")

[SonicSW20]

thanks for that never knew that was what it would take...yeah engine out then.

this makes sense why this wouldn't come out...glad i never tried to force it, as it wouldn't drop easily i figured there must be something up...i thought i needed a specific tool for the corner bit with the square hole...so far from the truth
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There are bolts underneath the lower sump piece, so you have to remove the lower steel sump first.

There are also two bolts that you cannot get to without removing the flywheel that hold the crank seal housing to the sump.

yeah seen a few vids on youtube folk doing that..time to purchase engine hoist and engine stand... need to look through the old pdf manual i have to see the process of removal...unless there's a short cut/better version?

The way we've done it - disconnect everything you can, remove front and rear engine mounts. Jack car up, remove rear hubs / axles, remove suspension and subframe. Get a dolly to lower the engine onto so you can pull it out after. Lower the whole car onto the dolly so that the engine is resting on it. Now you can remove the two remaining engine mounts. Lift whole car up, slide engine out.



optional step is remove the rear bumper, I just put something soft between it and the straps.

[SonicSW20]

are these yellow billies too far gone also?( maybe should change post topic to "Too far gone!?")

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Remove the top mounts and springs (use spring compressors.)

With the damper unit separate, fully compress them to bottom of their travel, they should come back out quickly. repeat this several times. If they are slow or don't return by themselves, they are dead.

[pope_acute]

[quote="Gazza_DJ"

There are bolts underneath the lower sump piece, so you have to remove the lower steel sump first.

There are also two bolts that you cannot get to without removing the flywheel that hold the crank seal housing to the sump.
[/quote]

got hex ones in the sump, but it must be the flywheel ones stopping it.


i've got to this point so far. time to remove everything then..

[SonicSW20]

As someone posted it on Facebook... you can see the two bolts here:

[pope_acute]

As someone posted it on Facebook... you can see the two bolts

that's great thanks

[pope_acute]

ok been a bit of a Muppet...two bolts on the inside of the viewing panel of the flywheel, first bolt came out no bother perfect second bolt felt like it coming out but after 4 turns I'd realised I'd stripped the inside. swear it must be soft metal as it didn't take much for it to turn.

anyhow best way to get it out? would cutting slot with a dremmel on top then wratchet with fat flat blade work? just cut it flat worry about it later? I thought about mole grips as there is knurled bit to grab on the outside but I'd need a 90 degree one....

[SonicSW20]

What tends to happen is they get full of xxxx, so you insert your tool and it doesn't fully engage and cams out / strips... Or that pesky gorilla mechanic has been there before you with his ugga dugga gun...

Slotting it may work, but I'd try grips first, it's a little less destructive.

[abovetherim]

Irwin grip socket!

[SonicSW20]

Irwin grip socket!

These are excellent, but may be tricky to use in that location!

[pope_acute]

just bought erwin bolt set. Couldn't get the mole grips to work they twist too much and leave no room to turn as it's so tight. tried hammering the hex bit i had in a bit further too nothing worked.

For info screwfix do a erbauer set for £13 that look identical to erwin, but are black and come in a nice box with an extension bit. Only found out after i had bought.

[abovetherim]

I should have also suggested another option.

If you have a selection of torx or spline bit drivers then I have had luck before hammering in one slightly bigger than the Allen size.

Alternatively using a dremmel undercut the bolt head at the washer to relieve the tension