Markstevieandmads Budget Turbo Project: PART TWO

[androo007]

Superb effort! And to think not long ago you had this deep dark long list of Doom......

Well done, keep it up

[jimGTS]

If you cant see or hear cc water flowing, then you have some air in the system somewhere downstream.

I had a similar situation, no leaks, all hooked up fine, turns out just needed to bleed the pre rad a little more.

[markstevieandmads]

If you cant see or hear cc water flowing, then you have some air in the system somewhere downstream.

I had a similar situation, no leaks, all hooked up fine, turns out just needed to bleed the pre rad a little more.

Thanks JimGTS. I thought this.Im using the original st205 chargecooler rad so hoping i can reach the bleed valve on it (if there is one). I cant remember bleeding from there when i installed it though my memory is getting bad lol.
The pump is definitely working so i know its not a big problem.

One thing i noticed yesterday while bleeding the coolant is when i opened the throttle the coolant would come back out the open coolant cap area. Is this normal? It did settle down after a while though but i cant remember it doing that before?

[rossonza]

If you cant see or hear cc water flowing, then you have some air in the system somewhere downstream.

I had a similar situation, no leaks, all hooked up fine, turns out just needed to bleed the pre rad a little more.

Thanks JimGTS. I thought this.Im using the original st205 chargecooler rad so hoping i can reach the bleed valve on it (if there is one). I cant remember bleeding from there when i installed it though my memory is getting bad lol.
The pump is definitely working so i know its not a big problem.

One thing i noticed yesterday while bleeding the coolant is when i opened the throttle the coolant would come back out the open coolant cap area. Is this normal? It did settle down after a while though but i cant remember it doing that before?

im not massively techy with engines etc...but presume its the waterpump creating more pressure/flow when on throttle?

[markstevieandmads]

HORRIBLE UPDATE

Got the mot booked for tuesday so went out in the cold to get the car ready for it.
Started off with replacing the subframe bolt i had with the one i picked up from Mullen.



Unfortuantely it was the same bolt i already had so had to pad it out with a couple of thick washers for now until the correct one arrives from toyota later next month.

Next was to bleed the chargecooler system. I went to turn the bleed tap on the st205 rad i installed and it snapped off!!



So the front lights and bumper had to come off so i had better access and managed to undo it enough to bleed it with long nosed pliers and it wont leak as only snapped on the tap bit.



So i tightened it back up with the pliers and put the front end back together again. (I can now do this in about 20mins!).

With the chargecooler bled i can now see the coolant flowing slowly in the core and the pump changed tone too so i now know its working ok.

I checked the engine coolant and that was all good too with no leaks and ran the car for 20mins or so giving it some throttle and it all looks good.

Next i checked all the lights was working and the horn....the horn doesnt work!
I had already installed a new horn on the last mot and moved it to under the passenger front light for better access as the chargecooler rad takes its space.

I found the horn a bit loose and i had used the mounting bolt for the earth so tightened this. I also checked the horn connection on my steering wheel and found that a connection had snapped off so sorted this too....now the horn works fine.

I gave the car a quick run round the estate. However its so built up that i could only get into second gear. I found the throttle was now sticking I got it home and adjusted the throttle cable. It looks a bit frayed but it now works alot better. The clutch feels like it needs to be bled more though it does go into gear fine and it runs and idles fine except for the exhaust still blowing.

So, i got it home and stripped the chargecooler core off and had another go at tightening the manifold studs. They all needed tightening again and i left the repaired one till last....and it wont tighten Looks like the repair hasnt worked. I am so utterly defeated ive just had enough of it.

Ive been looking at getting a type r now and thinking of selling up. Just had enough. All this work and i still have the same problem. I will send it in for the mot on tuesday but im sure it will fail on this
Even if it passes i know it needs doing and makes the car sound awful and i just wont enjoy driving it with it not done.

Ive emailed Simon at Predator performace to give me a price to sort this once and for all. If the head has got to come off then its more expense for new head bolts and head gasket as well as the other gaskets i will need.

Just absolutely p!ss#d off with it now.....

[thomp1983]

Chin up mark it shouldn't be too hard to sort, how was the repair done last time drilled out and helicoiled? Id be looking at fitting a timesert which you can do in situ and are far more reliable

[markstevieandmads]

Chin up mark it shouldn't be too hard to sort, how was the repair done last time drilled out and helicoiled? Id be looking at fitting a timesert which you can do in situ and are far more reliable

It was welded and redrilled last time while the head was off. Im wondering if it was off centre as had to knock the stud a bit to line it up and maybe why its not sitting flush.

[thomp1983]

If that is the case then you should just be able to enlarge that hole on the manifold slightly to let it sit flush.

You need to get a bare manifold and test fit it without a gasket against the head and it should sit near flush to the head

[markstevieandmads]

If that is the case then you should just be able to enlarge that hole on the manifold slightly to let it sit flush.

You need to get a bare manifold and test fit it without a gasket against the head and it should sit near flush to the head

Which means removing the entire turbo assembly again

I was hoping maybe i can remove the stud and retap with the manifold in situ and maybe drill the hole larger in the manifold with the stud removed?

[rossonza]

keep going mate, dont let this put you off the car. it will be worth it that first drive knowing the cars sorted.

[markstevieandmads]

Im going to try to remove the stud and make the exhaust manifold hole bigger with it in situ (being careful not to hit the head).
Then reinstall the stud with threadlock and hopefully then wont need as much torque for it to hold?

The other option if the thread is knackered is to tap it out to 7/16 and get a 7/16 stud? Ive read this on a usa forum.

Just trying to save me the hassle of removing everything again.

[rossonza]

Im going to try to remove the stud and make the exhaust manifold hole bigger with it in situ (being careful not to hit the head).
Then reinstall the stud with threadlock and hopefully then wont need as much torque for it to hold?

The other option if the thread is knackered is to tap it out to 7/16 and get a 7/16 stud? Ive read this on a usa forum.

Just trying to save me the hassle of removing everything again.

looked at helicoils?

[markstevieandmads]

Im going to try to remove the stud and make the exhaust manifold hole bigger with it in situ (being careful not to hit the head).
Then reinstall the stud with threadlock and hopefully then wont need as much torque for it to hold?

The other option if the thread is knackered is to tap it out to 7/16 and get a 7/16 stud? Ive read this on a usa forum.

Just trying to save me the hassle of removing everything again.

looked at helicoils?

Tried helicoils before but just wasnt enough. Im hoping to solve this without removing it all. Gonna try tightening it again and put in for the mot.
Passes or fails i will then remove the turbo and downpipe from the manifold somehow instead of pulling it all out. Re tap if need be and then make the hole bigger on the manifold which should then make sure it sits flush.
Just a big pain...

[mrhappy62]

good luck bud
see you at combe

[markstevieandmads]

Luck hasnt been on my side. The stud just came out so the threads are knackered again. Wish the engineering shop helicoiled or time inserted now but they welded and redrilled instead.
I would prefer just to give the car to someone else and pay them to do it as ive had enough with it but im getting no response from the engine builder

[markstevieandmads]

MORE DOOM AND GLOOM:

Attempted to get to the mot place today thinking if it fails on emmisions then they maybe able to sort the manifold.
However , although the car ran well (with the blow) i couldnt get the passenger door to unlock from the inside as the button was stuck.
Also the abs light came on half way there so i turned around and went home.

A shame as th car was running well and boosting as it should.

Also checked for leaks after its first proper run after the work done and looks like i got an oil leak and a coolant leak though im sure these are just loose clips which i spotted a few days ago.

So ive bit the bullet and contact rogue motorsport. Matt has been very forthcoming with his messages (something i can say that hasnt been happening with other people i have contacting including people i have used in the past) and has given me a price to strip it down and time insert the stud and reinstall and also organise an mot.
Rogue is only 90mins from me too though i will either tow it (not sure if thats legal as it has no mot) or get someone to transport it there (matt has given me a name he uses and the guy got straight back to me).
I may even strip the turbo and manifold off myself to save labour costs.
All this should be happening in the next few weeks.

Firstly i need to sort these new problems that have appeared... i will check these out later after work.

[rossonza]

end of the day, as long as it gets sorted that's all that matters. Yes your going to be slightly out of pocket now your paying someone to do the work. but sometimes its worth it.

[markstevieandmads]

UPDATE:

I havent given up on it....yet.....

So the car is booked in with Matt at Rogue for the 16th May. I went on shiply to organise a transporter and was getting quotes between £100 + £120.
The guy Matt had recommended was £150. I then got a quote from a local guy a few people had recommended on Faceache for £100 so it was agreed for him to pickup the car on the 15th and drop it off at Rogue the same day so its ready for them. However, ive tried to contact him today and ive not heard anything....lets hope i dont have a problem with him....

So, to save me a few quid i decided to strip the chargecooler,turbo and manifold off myself.

Within 2 hours the car went from being fully assembled to this:



with a boot full of bits including the chargecooler core and afm and other bits:



and the engine bay now like this:



As its the third time the turbo has been out, its getting easier!

I noticed there was no gasket on the turbo oil drain/supply so will need to find that or get rogue to fit another. Also found a couple of clips failing so will get rogue to replace these. Ive bagged up the bolts and put them back where needed.

Another thing i found (my luck is not great at the mo) was a nice screw in my nice nearly new toyo:



I took the wheel off and took it to a local tyre place where they repaired it for £15. It seems to be holding air for now.

Ive also noticed that one of the front tyres has cracks on the sidewall:



Will this pass an mot as the tread is fine??

I will ask Matt at Rogue his opinion or this will be extra expense for a new front set.

Just a few things to do before the car goes up to Rogue...

Tighten seat belt mounts
Use my new dremel to make a groove on the front chargecooler rad to allow rogue to bleed it with a screwdriver


I managed to sort the non opening passenger door lock. I had put the bezel too close and used the wrong screw to secure it so was catching the lock button.

I also pulled the abs codes from the ecu which said rear passenger abs sensor signal not correct (or something along those lines).
I then removed the abs sensor on that side to find loads of metal flakes and corrosion and debris on it so cleaned that all off - hopefully this has solved that problem though i need to clear the abs code from the ecu yet.

As long as the transporter turns up (or i organise someone else) then the car will then be ready to go to Rogue for next week. Rogue will then time insert and the head for the new stud and then reinstall everything.
I will then get them to check it all over and then get an mot on it for me so i can then drive it back.

JDMCombe tickets have been booked so im hoping it will be ready for it.

Got to get my bodykit repaired,repainted and refitted too.

[rossonza]

good progress mate. shame on the tyre (but at least it was repairable).

as for the tyre cracking, i was always under the impression any cracks will be a failure, but a google suggests otherwise. best to ask the professionals.

be exciting to get to the show

[markstevieandmads]

So the car is all ready for Rogue to work their magic.

Everything in the boot or front seat lol




And the engine bay turbo and downpipe stripped off so rogue can access the head.



Matt from Rogue phoned me today to discuss what is going to happen etc. He has recommended to time insert all the exhaust manifold studs. I am in two minds about this as 1 ive never had a problem torquing up the rest of the studs and 2 ive got a wedding to pay for next year and the missus is already doing her nut! Not sure ive got an extra £260 odd quid to do the rest of the studs.
I will have a think about it as i do want it all done properly but do i need all of them done or just the damaged one?

The transporter is coming tommorow at 8am so should be at rogue for about 9.30am so they can start on it on wednesday.
I have let Matt know it would be great to have it back in time for JDMCombe so fingers cross....

Im hoping to save a few quid and repair the bodykit myself while the car is away and get it fitted when it returns.

Got a few repairs to do first...
















Plenty of work to get on with while im waiting for the car back....