[Mk2] [Turbo] Water Injection Installation - Aquamist HFS3.1

[ceramicpower]

after searching around for a while now and compilling info from a few different sources i've decided to create a water injection install thread. there are a few posts and threads about different stages of the installation but i could not find a start to finish guide.

i am still in the process of installing this and instead of asking the odd specific question i hope to group them all here so anyone with experience of fitting WI please pipe up!

i've a rev 2 turbo with TD05 and a Greddy IC. this stems from a dyno run last year that the tuner said my intake temps where dangerously high and i should get octane booster and a boot mount IC etc but after some research i found water injection to be the way to go. i'm planning on full water for now i might go 50/50 meth down the road but for now i just want cooler intake temps. i've also fitted a shroud and spal fan since.

first off i bought the Aquamist system. after researching around i decided something like water injection should not be scrimped on and although it is a big one off expense i hope to have peace of mind that it is a good water delivery system with failsafes and good support from Richard at Aquamist.



i'm doing this at weekends when it's not raining (rare in Ireland this time of year) so bear with me. ok so an update of where i'm at:

i removed all the carpetting from the boot to expose the bulkhead. there's plenty of space to install the tank and pump next to the ECU. i'd recommend getting the optional water tank and bracket.

drill 4 holes in the bulkhead for the bracket. i had a couple of straps (2 short and 2 long) that came in handy. please excuse the bolts...






then fit the tank and then the water level and feed to the pump:







then 4 holes for the pump bracket:



then install the pump. the pump inlet and outlet must be below the tank outlet





i am test fitting everything before i put the carpet back in. i'll know soon if this is a good idea or bad...

i have fitted some tubing and located where the FAV (fast acting valve) and flow sensor are going i just need to fit them. pics to follow

i'm at the stage where it's time to start wiring up the control unit. below is what i proposed to Richard at Aquamist for the wiring and he said it was right:

4 way connector:
red - fused - switched positive (red lights ignition)
black - ground
white - ground
purple - lights
all at fuse box in compartment or engine bay.


ECU Grey RJ48 Connector:

red - to IGT (Igniter) switched positive (red lights ignition)
green - to #1 (Injector) pulsed ground (hopefully, will check with multimeter)
blue - to PIM (Map sensor) 0-5v signal wire.

these wires are just joined 'Y'

failsafe:

cut TPS wire (turbocharging pressure VSV):
white - to ECU side
brown - VSV side

all these are fine except i can't find a pulsed ground injector wire. any i check have a steady 14.1v. i've checked the 4 injector wires from the ECU and even the 2 wires that are physically plugged onto the injectors all a steady 14.1v.



i would like to locate all wiring before i continue and it's just this that's holding me up. any help is much appreciated

also if you have a boost controller it's likely that your VSV is disconnected. i have a Greddy Profec spec B that can be used as a failsafe i'll go through that later

i'll be populating this thread as i go so anyone with any good info please contribute!

[jon]

#1,#2,#3,#4 are the injector signals. The ECU drives them to 0v to turn on the injectors, so measuring 14.1v with ignition on but without the engine running is expected.

[androo007]

Cool stuff!

[Odin_S]

Good choice AM, i came to the same decision too. Bought mine 2 years ago.

I have a slight different engine setup to you but i'm still running a SMIC (PP) too, Dont be afraid of going straight to 50/50, i was apprehensive of meth at the beginning but have be using it no problems since day one

You only start getting into testing the boundaries when you go more than 50% in favour of meth. I think of it like this, the water will quench the heat but you will lose power, meth adds back the octane.

Let me know where you put your FAV

WI really helps in the summer

[ceramicpower]

#1,#2,#3,#4 are the injector signals. The ECU drives them to 0v to turn on the injectors, so measuring 14.1v with ignition on but without the engine running is expected.

I tested for this with the engine running but if it's like you said the 4 injector wires from the ecu are at 14v with a pulse of negative ground maybe my multimeter is too slow to register it? I suppose the injectors would be like a closed relays the the pulsed ground would open them this would make sense

[ceramicpower]

Good choice AM, i came to the same decision too. Bought mine 2 years ago.

I have a slight different engine setup to you but i'm still running a SMIC (PP) too, Dont be afraid of going straight to 50/50, i was apprehensive of meth at the beginning but have be using it no problems since day one

You only start getting into testing the boundaries when you go more than 50% in favour of meth. I think of it like this, the water will quench the heat but you will lose power, meth adds back the octane.

Let me know where you put your FAV

WI really helps in the summer

Thanks will let you know how I get on! Did you do the install on yours?

[Odin_S]

Good choice AM, i came to the same decision too. Bought mine 2 years ago.

I have a slight different engine setup to you but i'm still running a SMIC (PP) too, Dont be afraid of going straight to 50/50, i was apprehensive of meth at the beginning but have be using it no problems since day one

You only start getting into testing the boundaries when you go more than 50% in favour of meth. I think of it like this, the water will quench the heat but you will lose power, meth adds back the octane.

Let me know where you put your FAV

WI really helps in the summer

Thanks will let you know how I get on! Did you do the install on yours?

No i didn't, Drift Limits installed mine.

I only have one injector going into the TB. Interested to see how your setup will be. I originally wanted 2 injectors, one on the TB and one onthe turbo. But both Fensport and DL said this was the best setup for me.

Mine is controlled by my aftermarket ECU so maybe that's why i only have one.

[ceramicpower]

i think i'll be just installing the one water jet just after the IC as the Greddy coldpipe has 2 ports in this location for WI. recommended by Richard aswell as the best spot

trial fitted the gauges in the centre panel made by Alan Bryson. not sure if he's on here he's active on the Faccebook groups he does a great job! i'll be installing all these as i go so i'll keep you updated



first is a PLX wideband O2. plan on just replacing the factory O2 sensor the PLX module has a 0-1v output that can send a signal to the ECU and a 0-5v wideband if you're datalogging. btw i ordered a Datalogit from new zealand and it never came ended up in a paypal dispute which got resolved but still looking for one!

middle is the Aquamist gauge

on the right is a spa designs signature IC in/out temps gauge. these are pricey but come with great sensors and features. i plan on putting one at the hotpipe between turbo and intercooler and one in the TB inlet. i can use this to turn on the IC spal fan aswell there's an output that can be set to any temp that will drive a relay. looking forward to setting this up will be good for some readings and comparisons

[jon]

#1,#2,#3,#4 are the injector signals. The ECU drives them to 0v to turn on the injectors, so measuring 14.1v with ignition on but without the engine running is expected.

I tested for this with the engine running but if it's like you said the 4 injector wires from the ecu are at 14v with a pulse of negative ground maybe my multimeter is too slow to register it? I suppose the injectors would be like a closed relays the the pulsed ground would open them this would make sense

The pulses will be too short to measure on a multimeter.

[ceramicpower]

#1,#2,#3,#4 are the injector signals. The ECU drives them to 0v to turn on the injectors, so measuring 14.1v with ignition on but without the engine running is expected.

I tested for this with the engine running but if it's like you said the 4 injector wires from the ecu are at 14v with a pulse of negative ground maybe my multimeter is too slow to register it? I suppose the injectors would be like a closed relays the the pulsed ground would open them this would make sense

The pulses will be too short to measure on a multimeter.

thanks Jon that clears that up. i'll tie into injector 01 from the ECU that will give me injector duty cycle

[ceramicpower]

managed to get a bit done during the snow...

on the way to get stripped



removed engine lid, bracing, panels, IC piping, seats and interior










mounted the FAV onto the strut tower







this is the amount of wiring i'm dealing with:



FAV, tank level sensor, commander ext cable, wideband, oil temp sensor, oil pressure sensor, EGT sensor, 2 IC temp sensors, narrowband wire to ECU, some + & -'s for the relays, etc



wiring for pump and fan:


fuses


this is the relay contraption i had to use. Spa Design gauge specifies a particular relay that must be used to avoid damage to the gauge but it's only 10 amp so the 10 amp is driving a 40 amp for the fan



what i thought would take 2 days looks like it's about a weeks work i've a good bit more done will get sone pics this evening