Rev 2 turbo starts then dies after engine rebuild.

[caldridge7]

Hi guys having trouble with the rev 2 turbo, took the engine out to do the headgasket, got it all done turned the key and the car starts runs for about a second or two then dies.

If I disconnected the afm then it will idle but obviously runs a bit rough. Also it is a blitz afm.

Overall struggling as I dunno what else it can be why would it run with the afm disconnected?

[Odin_S]

Has your car ever been running well?

[caldridge7]

Before rebuild ran lovely.

[caldridge7]

Got it to run but still heistates seems to work when warm but not great but dies when cold also engine management light is on, fault codes are 22 which is coolant temp sensor which I replaced so I don't know why that fault is still there... And fault code 47 which I dunno what that is...


Really need some serious help... Would pay to have it fixed doing my head in...

[Pauln]

Did you pull the efi fuse to reset error messages after changing the temp sensor?

I take it it was the green ecu temp sensor you replaced not the gauge temp sensor?

Perhaps the tps was moved when you took the head off and needs resetting?

I can't see any mention of code 47 in the manual.

Finally, has the car been stood for a long time. Leaking capacitors are a common fault in the rev2 ECU, and leaving the car to stand for a long time with a flat battery can make this worse - as I found out with mine. So might be worth whipping off the ecu cover to check for leaking capacitors.

Paul

[caldridge7]

Funny you may say that as I just took of my ecu to check it and c810 has black marks on the tracks and is really is to move feels like it's ready to drop off could that really cause my lumpy start when cold misfire hesitation issue thing????

[Pauln]

Yep the two caps most likely to leak are c810 on the main motherboard and c512 on the smaller motherboard. Is it a scorch mark on the motherboard, or does it look like gunk leaking from the cap?

If it's a scorch mark, sounds like the cap has blown. Either way you need to clean up the tracks on the motherboard and check/repair any damage to the tracks, then I'd replace both caps.

Given the central role of the ECU, I'd get that repaired first before looking elsewhere. If you're lucky that will sort things out. I had all sorts of problems with mine until I replaced the caps, including the engine management warning light flashing on and off.

If she's still not running properly, I'd check your TPS next.

The other possible culprit is a sticky ICV. This does get pretty grubby over time and can stick. I've seen some folks try to clean this up on the car, but for my money it's far better to take the throttle body off the car and give everything a good clean, including the small airways adjacent to the butterfly valve.

Its also easier to setup the TPS with the throttle body off the car, and at least you then know everything is good, throttle wise.

The stock AFM also has an adjustment screw which can be checked as per the book. I don't know if the Bltz afm is the same. And also as it's a rev 2, there is an adjustment screw on the throttle body, which you can try as a last resort. Thought the jury is out as whether this really makes much difference to the idle, as changes here may well get compensated for elsewhere.

Paul

[caldridge7]

Okay so I got the ecu capacitors swapped and fitted it to my car, carnow idles but still a slight hesitation and sadly the engine management light is on still constantly. On.

The main code is 22 which is apparently coolant temp sensor but I fitted a new sensor and still this code keeps coming up.

Any help to try get rid of the engine management light would be much appreciated.

[Pauln]

Assuming you've tried pulling the efi fuse for a couple of minutes to clear the memorized fault codes, and it was the green ecu temp sensor you changed, perhaps there's air still trapped in the cooling system following the head work which could stop the temp sensor working correctly. You could try checking the new sensor with a meter to see if the resistance drops as the temperature of the cooling fluid rises.

Are you still getting any other error codes?

Paul

[caldridge7]

No its fully bleeded mate and I get 22 and 47 and engine management light is on..

[Pauln]

Funny why you're still getting the 22 error after clearing down the error codes. Assuming you've fitted a new sensor that kinda suggests either a break in the wiring from the sensor to the ecu, or an ecu fault.

Error 47 is also a bit odd as there's no mention of this in the manual, but searching with Google I did come across a couple of posts suggesting this error is connected with the TPS. I also took a quick look at the wiring diagram and at first glance it looks as though the temp sensor and the tps share a common earth path via the ecu.

So..

It might be worth checking that the multi pin plugs on the ecu are pushed in tight, same with the plug into the tps.

Does it look as though the tps could have been knocked? The factory usually put a dab of paint on the securing screws once it's been set. It certainly wouldn't do any harm to check and if necessary adjust the TPS.

Other than that I guess the only other thing to try is swapping your ECU for a known good one. But I know rev 2 ECUs don't turn up for sale that often.

Shame you're so far away, otherwise you could have tried my spare to see if that cleared the fault.

Paul

[markstevieandmads]

Have u tried a different afm? I had odd problems with the eml until i changed the afm.