Discussion and technical advice the SW20 MR2. 3S-GTE, 3S-GE, 3S-FE etc
Anything and everything to do with maintenance, modifications and electrical is in here for the Mk2.
I made one to fit a hks bov flange that is welded onto my ko racing IC pipe.
Had no choice as couldn't find a hks blank on the web.
But for stock hotpipe, am sure some US vendors have block off plates available for cheap.
On a 20b you won't experience the noises you hear on the larger BB turbos, or even larger journal ones. Least I don't.
Mine still sounds like a bov woosh along with a little flutter at full boost and full throttle. It's not just flutter but a bov sound too strangely.
I got similar sounds from a tightly wound hks bov. Infact with the bov it sounded nicer.
Many don't have this option though of adjusting the bov spring tension. In which case a delete you will certainly experience more flutter everywhere.
But on a 20b it won't sound like a pigeon choo choo, more just a fluttering and woosh.
I am a complete moron sometimes - how do you actually do this? I tried to blank off the BOV on my Scooby and it refused to start so have never tried it since
Can easily make an aluminium blanking plate, but not sure which vacuum to take off and attach to what?
OP if you want a blanking plate I'll make you one for postage as I may as well do two at the same time
you have 1 vac hose going to the bov.
all you need to do is block this at the source, ie inlet manifold.
block the ic hardpipe, and if you recirc back to the intake with the bov your using, block this too, and your done.
on a gen3, ie rev3+, shoudnt be any issues with the general running.
however, please do some research on the bov delete mod itself in general, and decide whether you want to go down this route.
some say dont do it on a ceramic turbo, some say dont do it on a journal bearing turbo, some say dont do it ever.
others, say ignore all that, it doesnt cause any harm what so ever.
Cheers for the replies, lads. ATM I am a little wary, due to ceramic internals, but it may be a job for the future.
CalMac, much appreciated, sounds good.
I'm guessing you have access to better gear than a Dremel and a file?
I have been effectively running the same thing on my rev1 Turbo for about a year and a half.
Just tightened up the spring on my blitz BOV until there isn't enough pressure to release it. Same effect
AFAIK it's a standard CT20b. I'm going to do it this week at some point. I've been reading into this - arguments back and forth and misinformation from every corner of the internet, for at least 3 years now. There are a LOT of people running standard turbos BOV-less so screw it!
Worst comes to worst I'll have an excuse to go nuts on a fully forged big turbo build when I blow the CT20b to pieces and destroy my engine
I've just done this the easy way to see how it feels (remove two vac lines from the BOV and block the single vacuum that was going to the BOV).
Not sure yet but I only went for a 5 min drive and the roads are greasy - it does seem to drop out of boost range if you don't shift lightning fast all the time? Feels quick though, though that could be from driving the MX5 for the last few weeks
At least it's easy to go back to standard - I'll leave it blocked for a few weeks and see how I get on
Also Jim, what happened to the S3/RS3 at 3:50?
maybe i caught up due to only being 2wd, not 4wd robbing power at the top end.
who knows.
some of those newer cars, with flappy paddles, audi and bmws, with new turbocharged engines can get huge power from and great times with just remaps.
they also have different boost maps based on octane of fuel.
dont need to do alot to get those cars in the 12s these days.
theres me with a manual gearbox trying to keep with modern tech with a 20year old engine. lol.