

I don't want to go down the forged route again this time.

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mr2nut123 wrote:If you wanted to just pop over the 300hp mark and run less boost, is there a turbo that's slightly more efficient than a CT20, but still remains on stock ECU without needing a remap?Perhaps rebuilding a CT20 is an option?
I don't want to go down the forged route again this time.
Martin F wrote:I ran a TD05 on standard set up, ran fine, it was stronger than ct20b for sure, wouldn't like to estimate what power it was putting down at what boost but here is a video of it at 1-1.1 bar
I sold it to sheppy, he then sold it to another member, maybe worth tracking the buyer down because they may not have used it, would be a cracking purchase for you.
clutch was slipping unfortunately, but you get the idea![]()
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7x9PDbR_a_I
mr2nut123 wrote:Martin F wrote:I ran a TD05 on standard set up, ran fine, it was stronger than ct20b for sure, wouldn't like to estimate what power it was putting down at what boost but here is a video of it at 1-1.1 bar
I sold it to sheppy, he then sold it to another member, maybe worth tracking the buyer down because they may not have used it, would be a cracking purchase for you.
clutch was slipping unfortunately, but you get the idea![]()
![]()
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7x9PDbR_a_I
Cheers Martin.![]()
I'll have a look into that
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Milo_101 wrote:Keep boosting the ct20b until it spits it's guts out.It makes 300 crank hp easily.
After that rebuilt it with billet wheels, and be capable of pushing well over 300whp.
Race Idiot wrote:Don't think there's anyone in the UK that does a billet CT20.There are some options in the us but they want a CT20 core which is a bit much to ship a broken turbo across the sea.
sky-net wrote:Race Idiot wrote:Don't think there's anyone in the UK that does a billet CT20.There are some options in the us but they want a CT20 core which is a bit much to ship a broken turbo across the sea.
I've seen a CT20b with a choice of different stages or specs being sold at mr2-ben today for the first time.
jimGTS wrote:
factor in a wideband gauge imo.
jimGTS wrote:It's a gauge and separate o2 sensor.
Assuming you have a downpipe you should have a spare port to fit the sensor at the bottom of it.
It needs to read afrs about 2-3foot from the turbo.
Handy, all the aftermarket downpipes have this bung welded in.
Unless of course you have a blitz downpipe and you may not be so lucky.
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