Rev1 Engine Rebuild Advice

[IMR2T]

Hi guys, currently got a Rev1 block that I've had reconditioned and its in bits but I'm building it this wk to fit it this Sunday so I can get my 2 back on the rd.

This is my first time building a block and I'm aiming to do the best job I can and a bit of input from people who have done the same never hurts.

The long term I'll run it at 450hp(as I heard the block cracks at the water pump at 500+) as a daily and I want to be able to kick the xxxx out it, as much as I like, so I want it built not to break.

- The heads been cleaned and refreshed with new valve stem seals
- The blocks been bored and honed
- I'm fitting 86.5mm Wossener's
- Eagle/FCP Rods
- King thrust, crank and conrod bearings
- All new gaskets
- New water pump
- MLS hg

- I'll build it with a digital torque wrench
- I'll fit it and run it through one heat cycle and change the oil
- I'll run it through a second heat cycle and change the oil.
- I'll run it for 500miles(should take me 10days) then change the oil one last time.


Any advice on this?

[kennym]

torque the rod bolts & slacken them off three times if you're not using a bolt stretch gauge, also you don't mention an oil pump.

[gnzyza]

Add ARP studs too. Prime the oil pump before putting the belt on

[IMR2T]

torque the rod bolts & slacken them off three times if you're not using a bolt stretch gauge, also you don't mention an oil pump.

Cheers Kenny, will do, I'm led to believe the oil pumps are bulletproof so wasn't planning on changing it.

I'd like to use a stretch gauge but when it's £150 for a gd one it bursts the budget. I'm hoping the digital torque wrench does a proper job!

[IMR2T]

Add ARP studs too. Prime the oil pump before putting the belt on

Cheers Gyzyza, the rods come with ARP's. I'm not sold that I need ARP's for the head but I'm open to learning more about them.

[kennym]

torque the rod bolts & slacken them off three times if you're not using a bolt stretch gauge, also you don't mention an oil pump.

Cheers Kenny, will do, I'm led to believe the oil pumps are bulletproof so wasn't planning on changing it.

I'd like to use a stretch gauge but when it's £150 for a gd one it bursts the budget. I'm hoping the digital torque wrench does a proper job!

thousands of engines have been built without then & thousands more will be, just torque then slacken a few times you'll be good, oil pumps are bullet proof right up until the moment their not.... i refer you back to the bit you said about not wanting it to break ...lol

[gnzyza]

I have no issue in re using the oil pump (I did in mine) but not without checking it as per the BGB.

I do think the headbolts are a wise investment for 400hp. Stud and bolt has a far stronger clamping force.

[IMR2T]

Fair enough, ha! If there's a solid reason why ARP's are the way forward Id happily look into it.

Kennym - Have you heard of oil pumps failing yeah?

[IMR2T]

I have no issue in re using the oil pump (I did in mine) but not without checking it as per the BGB.

I do think the headbolts are a wise investment for 400hp. Stud and bolt has a far stronger clamping force.

What's the bgb checklist for the pump out of interest?

Ok mate, will look into the head studs.

[gnzyza]

Mr2 pumps are pretty solid Imo. You check the clearance between the drive body and rotor tips. Not alot that can go wrong if its in spec really?

[IMR2T]

Mr2 pumps are pretty solid Imo. You check the clearance between the drive body and rotor tips. Not alot that can go wrong if its in spec really?

Sorted, ok will check that

[kennym]

you asked for advice you got it i'd change the pump,.... or don't its up to you

[IMR2T]

you asked for advice you got it i'd change the pump,.... or don't its up to you

Kenny, I appreciate the input but my budgets set. That being said if my oil pumps in spec I'm £100 up, if it needs replaced rest assured it'll get replaced.