Harness bars

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Jaz-MR21991
Posts: 98
Joined: Thu Mar 07, 2013 8:56 pm
Location: Cambridgeshire

Harness bars

Post by Jaz-MR21991 »

Hey,

Wondering how people are fitting their over shoulder harnesses to their cars, I've seen harness bars which look pretty good, does anyone know where I could get some of these?

Thanks

Jasmine
Danbob
Posts: 830
Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2011 8:06 pm
Location: Wellingborough

Re: Harness bars

Post by Danbob »

Most people bolt up directly to the bulkhead behind the seat using spreader plates. It's a little bit more work, but it's cheaper than a harness bar and in theory safer also.

The rear bulkhead is triple skinned steel, so with the spreader plates is plenty strong enough, and you have freedom to set the eye bolts at the correct level. The other side of the panel is quite accessible, you just have to remove some of the heatshield and some insulation to get to it.

The spreader plates do not necessarily have to be welded on. Some harness manufacturers specify to hold them on place using sealant to prevent leaks and let the eyebolt do the rest. Other people prefer to weld them in. As long as the load is spread it's OK. Make sure you use a lock nut or 2 to secure them. They are only a few ££ from demon tweeks.

Harness bars are usually only designed to lift the harness to sit at the correct height, not to take the full load of the belt. There might be some mr2 harness bars out there that are properly designed, but there are lots of horror stories to be found on the internet. If you do use one make sure it is a properly designed and tested one!
Jaz-MR21991
Posts: 98
Joined: Thu Mar 07, 2013 8:56 pm
Location: Cambridgeshire

Re: Harness bars

Post by Jaz-MR21991 »

Danbob wrote:Most people bolt up directly to the bulkhead behind the seat using spreader plates. It's a little bit more work, but it's cheaper than a harness bar and in theory safer also.

The rear bulkhead is triple skinned steel, so with the spreader plates is plenty strong enough, and you have freedom to set the eye bolts at the correct level. The other side of the panel is quite accessible, you just have to remove some of the heatshield and some insulation to get to it.

The spreader plates do not necessarily have to be welded on. Some harness manufacturers specify to hold them on place using sealant to prevent leaks and let the eyebolt do the rest. Other people prefer to weld them in. As long as the load is spread it's OK. Make sure you use a lock nut or 2 to secure them. They are only a few ££ from demon tweeks.



Harness bars are usually only designed to lift the harness to sit at the correct height, not to take the full load of the belt. There might be some mr2 harness bars out there that are properly designed, but there are lots of horror stories to be found on the internet. If you do use one make sure it is a properly designed and tested one!


Thanks for that info, I think I'll go with the plates and weld them in. Do you have any idea how strong the Pillar above the windscreen is? Only it seems that if you did roll a t-bar with the roof out and land at the wrong angle, that pillar will be in your head?! Not that I'm planning to roll it, just out of interest???

Thanks
MR2Tobbe
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2015 9:45 am

Re: Harness bars

Post by MR2Tobbe »

You should only fit 4-point(or 5, 6 etc) seatbelts if you at least have a proper half roll cage installed, otherwise you risk having the roof pushed in where your head is if the car rolls, just as you have already figured out.

I don´t think anybody plans to roll their car, but if it happens, it would feel pretty silly to have made the car more unsafe than it was in the first place...

Harness bars are in most cases just for posers, I don´t think anyone will guarantee their function in case of a crash. As far as I know, in racing the only approved places for fastening of harness is the rear bulkhead using spreader plates or on a horizontal bar integrated in the roll cage.
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