215 245 40s on 17s
, cusco shocks and rose joint and polybush
.
whiteline arb
, trd braces.
16s will handle better cause of shitty suspension.
i think, you setup is not
"the shitty one that i meant".
i never got a set of cusco coilvers for testing, so i cant tell exactly how they perform.
but in your setup, i think, there is one little mistake that may makes the car feel to stiff for street usage.
The ARB.
Adjustable droplinks
(learnt a new word
) could help here.
The higher the angle of the ARB gets, the bumpier gets the ride.
Many peolpe using some short ones all around but not adjustable ones, so the angle could may be too high.
.
And if the cusco is may similar to TEIN that could cause problems.
.
Soft damping
- hard stabilizing
,if you try to do a good suspension setup for street and trackday-use, that should be your goal.
but here comes one problem with it, mostly the spring rates of the coilovers are too hard, as its wanted to reduce siderolling of the car.
that feels sporty, i dont want to decline, but if you look further it isn't real sporty.
16s will comenspensate the problems given here a bit.
why they do, i will explain later in this post.
.
@RaceIdiot
-
well.
.
text above is for you as well.
but some words about the H&R you run.
H&R delivers a Set for you.
with a real good damper
(which is a modified B6 as H&R dont produces own dampers) and:
an horrific chosen Set of springs.
i try to explain.
H&R says: Motorsport Product! but gives you one set of spings.
this would work fine on tracks, terrible on streets.
even more terrible on british streets.
the big spring is a bit too hard here, the small one
(if used by you) performs okay.
Running B6 with TRD
(Eibach) spring will make a similar ride quality to the ST-Springs as their spring rates are nearly the same.
they only differ in responsiveness and breakaway
(hope thats the right word.
.
shoot google if its wrong, i mant the force which is initially needed to get the spring going)
I love both, both work really fine, giving a smooth damping, without much springbumping.
adj.
droplinks on OEM-ARBs will give the fine tune.
.
(or use the ARBs you have)
what advantage does a 17" have over a 16"?
it was told, that they look better.
.
hmm not sure about this, i like the
"balloony tire look" you get on 16s very much.
but yeah, there are some advantages.
the first one to be told is the possibility of bigger brakes.
track usage and bigger brakes should be told in one sentence.
the next bigger is, that on the widht of a tire between 215-255 a 40% tire wall would perform best.
thats got more reasons.
one i try to explain.
On a wheel a Tire does 2 essentail movements, dont know the words, google tells xxxx.
.
so.
.
more explanation
At first we got one movement called
"Latsch" in german.
thats the movement tire does when punished by longitudal G-Force.
The other one is called
"Walk" in german and describes the lateral movement of the tire.
you can set them by choosing the right tire height.
a higher tire wall gives you more safety when driving fast and a comfier ride, but is decreasing the cornering speeds a car can go.
a lesser tire wall stabilizes the ride, increases cornering speeds, increases steering precision, but decreases safety and comfort.
Safety:
i dont want to say its insecure, but again i don't know a better word here.
i meant how beginner friendy the ride is.
.
if a tire is 100% then
i high tire wall would be 60%DriveZone 39% SafetyZone the last one percent is the breakout/crash.
i lesser tire wall would be like 85% DriveZone 14%SafetyZone and again, the last precent is the breakout.
.
hope you understand.
.
\\VNL
