Hi all.
Got just a few questions that I have been trying to figure out but need some help.
CAR - REV1 TURBO.
1: stereo has white noise lingering all the time. This a common issue with the old ones? Or is it a suppressor etc?
2: wind noise in cockpit, again, common? and if so where is the wind noise coming from, I hear around the tweeter cover on inside of mirror is common area. How to fix?
3: standard Fuel cut limit on a rev1 turbo? I fitted a blitz Nur spec R exhaust and started hitting fuel cut, so put on a grainger valve, disabled tvsv, fitted aftermarket boost gauge, what can I run? 13.4 psi? more/less?
4: polybush front arb opinions?
5: what size alloy are people loving and why? i run 17s, but hear handling/turn-in is better on 16s?
Look forward to the replies! thanks
Few questions.
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Few questions.
Toyota MR2 - 3S-GTE - 1991 Turbo - Yellow
Re: Few questions.
wind noise is the seal, search for it there are a number of topics about it. Not a hard fix
15s prob offer the best handling but offer very little in terms of tyre choice. I have 16s on min coming from 15 and find the steering much heavier. However there is now decent rubber on the wheels so it doesn`t slide around on damp patches.
Also find that the lower profile tyres on the 16 don`t soak up the bumps as well as the 15s.
I think the car needs a proper alignment. however it has more grip on 16s due to better tyres, the felt better most of the time except for ultimate grip due to limited options for 15s.
The turn in is worse on 16 but it can hold better in the corners. I can only imagine (never tried) 17 would be more of the same.
yes there are poly bushes for the ARBs.
15s prob offer the best handling but offer very little in terms of tyre choice. I have 16s on min coming from 15 and find the steering much heavier. However there is now decent rubber on the wheels so it doesn`t slide around on damp patches.
Also find that the lower profile tyres on the 16 don`t soak up the bumps as well as the 15s.
I think the car needs a proper alignment. however it has more grip on 16s due to better tyres, the felt better most of the time except for ultimate grip due to limited options for 15s.
The turn in is worse on 16 but it can hold better in the corners. I can only imagine (never tried) 17 would be more of the same.
yes there are poly bushes for the ARBs.
Re: Few questions.
pbmr2 wrote:wind noise is the seal, search for it there are a number of topics about it. Not a hard fix
15s prob offer the best handling but offer very little in terms of tyre choice. I have 16s on min coming from 15 and find the steering much heavier. However there is now decent rubber on the wheels so it doesn`t slide around on damp patches.
Also find that the lower profile tyres on the 16 don`t soak up the bumps as well as the 15s.
I think the car needs a proper alignment. however it has more grip on 16s due to better tyres, the felt better most of the time except for ultimate grip due to limited options for 15s.
The turn in is worse on 16 but it can hold better in the corners. I can only imagine (never tried) 17 would be more of the same.
yes there are poly bushes for the ARBs.
What seal is it that makes my radio make the noise?
And OK, good to know about the wheel situation. Just curious more then anything, quite like the wheels but a 40 sidewall doesn't go well with our rough roads in Scotland!
Toyota MR2 - 3S-GTE - 1991 Turbo - Yellow
Re: Few questions.
yes yes yes yes yes.
Re: Few questions.
Wind noise is the door seal
Radio noise is the power wire running to close to the speaker wires
Arb poly bushes are available in several sizes depending if you have original or uprated arbs.
Radio noise is the power wire running to close to the speaker wires
Arb poly bushes are available in several sizes depending if you have original or uprated arbs.
Re: Few questions.
doogal44 wrote:Wind noise is the door seal
Radio noise is the power wire running to close to the speaker wires
Arb poly bushes are available in several sizes depending if you have original or uprated arbs.
There is no leaking water around the door. Could it still be door seal, perhaps perished?
OK that's interesting, will need to look at the route of wire and see what I can do. Thanks.
Yeah would change the D bushes probably on front and see what like.
Toyota MR2 - 3S-GTE - 1991 Turbo - Yellow
Re: Few questions.
Common issue Google wind noise tweeters mr2.
Re: Few questions.
kurkjones wrote:pbmr2 wrote:wind noise is the seal, search for it there are a number of topics about it. Not a hard fix
15s prob offer the best handling but offer very little in terms of tyre choice. I have 16s on min coming from 15 and find the steering much heavier. However there is now decent rubber on the wheels so it doesn`t slide around on damp patches.
Also find that the lower profile tyres on the 16 don`t soak up the bumps as well as the 15s.
I think the car needs a proper alignment. however it has more grip on 16s due to better tyres, the felt better most of the time except for ultimate grip due to limited options for 15s.
The turn in is worse on 16 but it can hold better in the corners. I can only imagine (never tried) 17 would be more of the same.
yes there are poly bushes for the ARBs.
What seal is it that makes my radio make the noise?
And OK, good to know about the wheel situation. Just curious more then anything, quite like the wheels but a 40 sidewall doesn't go well with our rough roads in Scotland!
16's have been my favourite size, but I have run 17's mroe often than not. You can run 45 profiles on them, I have 205/45 8j on the front and 245/45 on the rear. Soaks up the bumps and holes much better than 40 profile.
Re: Few questions.
[quote="kurkjones" started hitting fuel cut, so put on a grainger valve, disabled tvsv, fitted aftermarket boost gauge, what can I run? 13.4 psi? more/less?
[/quote]
13 psi is the one ... a good amount of boost mate
[/quote]
13 psi is the one ... a good amount of boost mate
Re: Few questions.
2mad wrote:[quote="kurkjones" started hitting fuel cut, so put on a grainger valve, disabled tvsv, fitted aftermarket boost gauge, what can I run? 13.4 psi? more/less?
13 psi is the one ... a good amount of boost mate [/quote]
Thanks man, will try get it set around that amount. It's set by MBC at 10psi at minute, must be very sensitive, even half a turn of the bolt on the grainger valve and i was hitting boost cut again! Will try it slowly adjusting the bolt.
Toyota MR2 - 3S-GTE - 1991 Turbo - Yellow
Re: Few questions.
kurkjones wrote:2mad wrote:[quote="kurkjones" started hitting fuel cut, so put on a grainger valve, disabled tvsv, fitted aftermarket boost gauge, what can I run? 13.4 psi? more/less?
13 psi is the one ... a good amount of boost mate
Thanks man, will try get it set around that amount. It's set by MBC at 10psi at minute, must be very sensitive, even half a turn of the bolt on the grainger valve and i was hitting boost cut again! Will try it slowly adjusting the bolt. [/quote]
If you remove the vac hose from the map sensor ... and cap it off ... no more fuel cut ... keep an eye on boost though dont want to grenade your engine
Re: Few questions.
2mad wrote:kurkjones wrote:2mad wrote:[quote="kurkjones" started hitting fuel cut, so put on a grainger valve, disabled tvsv, fitted aftermarket boost gauge, what can I run? 13.4 psi? more/less?
13 psi is the one ... a good amount of boost mate
Thanks man, will try get it set around that amount. It's set by MBC at 10psi at minute, must be very sensitive, even half a turn of the bolt on the grainger valve and i was hitting boost cut again! Will try it slowly adjusting the bolt.
If you remove the vac hose from the map sensor ... and cap it off ... no more fuel cut ... keep an eye on boost though dont want to grenade your engine [/quote]
Is this boost with running the CT26 Turbo? Would it be the same if it was a REV 1 running a CT20B turbo?
Re: Few questions.
gmac90 wrote:2mad wrote:kurkjones wrote:
13 psi is the one ... a good amount of boost mate
Thanks man, will try get it set around that amount. It's set by MBC at 10psi at minute, must be very sensitive, even half a turn of the bolt on the grainger valve and i was hitting boost cut again! Will try it slowly adjusting the bolt.
If you remove the vac hose from the map sensor ... and cap it off ... no more fuel cut ... keep an eye on boost though dont want to grenade your engine
Is this boost with running the CT26 Turbo? Would it be the same if it was a REV 1 running a CT20B turbo?[/quote]
Yes it works the same ct26 or ct20b ... just make sure you have a good gauge , one with an over boost alarm is ideal
1990 toyota mr2 altinator removal
on the forum it says remove wheel and then plastic panel inside of wheel arch to gain access to altinator ? there is no panel to remove on MY mr2 can any one explain .??? how do i get at the altinator to remove it....Thanks..
Re: 1990 toyota mr2 altinator removal
peake201 wrote:on the forum it says remove wheel and then plastic panel inside of wheel arch to gain access to altinator ? there is no panel to remove on MY mr2 can any one explain .??? how do i get at the altinator to remove it....Thanks..
Hi mate start a new thread on this topic, someone will help .. i dropped mine out the bottom squeezing it past the subframe .
Re: Few questions.
Yeah i am running CT26 turbo on Rev 1 as standard.
I saw someone mention capping the vac hose, I assume that is the one that runs to the bottom of the stock boost pressure sensor unit?
Also looking into an EBC instead of MBC, the MBC works fine but I like having the ability to adjust in cockpit and also just by using buttons increasing or decreasing it by small increments. Any for sale please message me!
I saw someone mention capping the vac hose, I assume that is the one that runs to the bottom of the stock boost pressure sensor unit?
Also looking into an EBC instead of MBC, the MBC works fine but I like having the ability to adjust in cockpit and also just by using buttons increasing or decreasing it by small increments. Any for sale please message me!
Toyota MR2 - 3S-GTE - 1991 Turbo - Yellow
Re: 1990 toyota mr2 altinator removal
2mad wrote:peake201 wrote:on the forum it says remove wheel and then plastic panel inside of wheel arch to gain access to altinator ? there is no panel to remove on MY mr2 can any one explain .??? how do i get at the altinator to remove it....Thanks..
Hi mate start a new thread on this topic, someone will help .. i dropped mine out the bottom squeezing it past the subframe .