Laser Alignment

[Rob]

I'm on 215/40/17 front tyres.

This is the setup all achieved to my knowledge other than the camber range.....

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[SonicSW20]

How low if your car, Rob? You may be experiencing bump steer - have a read through here: http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ ... Steer.aspx

[Rob]

Fairly low - 15mm approx clearance at the top of the arch but I also have RCA's installed all round and dropped track rod ends at the front to counter bump-steer

[archangel]

Thx gazza. Interesting read

[SonicSW20]

Fairly low - 15mm approx clearance at the top of the arch but I also have RCA's installed all round and dropped track rod ends at the front to counter bump-steer

Fair enough - so the arms travel through a similar arc under compression? What wheel widths / offsets front and rear? Is it twitchy all the time, or just on bumpy roads?

[Rob]

Yeah the RCA's effectively un-lower the car in terms of suspension geometry.

Front wheels are 17x8 et35 with 215 40 17 tyres and the rears are 17x9 et38 with 10mm spacers and 235 40 17 tyres.

Its twitchy driving down straight roads. Before the alignment it felt like it was a 4 wheel steer vehicle but now its much better apart from feeling like the front end needs correcting over all the undulations in the road.....

[mr2nut123]

Here you can see it unbolted.

As the hub is fixed to the control arm, moving it in and out will alter the camber as the bottom point is fixed. There is a small amount of play in the bolts which allows for a small amount of adjustment. You can buy camber bolts which will give you more adjustment here. If you're on stock suspension or uprated struts and lowering springs, pushing them in should give you ~2degrees negative camber or less.

Remember, camber and toe are linked - a change to one affects the other.

Cheers for the photo and explanation. So basically all I want to do is give the right rear more positibe camber so that it's just over 1 degree like the left hand side, that should be possible right? I assume the car needs to be on a level ramp and have the wheels off and no weight on the car?

Also, there are two bolts I can see there. To adjust it, do you only need to take one out then push it with a pry bar or do both need to come out?

[mr2nut123]

http://twosrus.com/catalog/contact_us.p ... on=success

Where can I get theset in the UK, and would dot 2 be wise so that I have up to 2 degrees each way?

[stuMR2lee]

If you want to do this properly you need a level surface and a camber gauge. Could always pay the alignment place to do it.

Otherwise you will just be using best guess and it all depends on how clean and straight your suspension components and car are.

To do the adjustment just jack your car up, put it on axle stands, and remove the wheel. Then slacken both strut bolts and get a feel for movement of the hub in/out. The best you will get without the required camber gauge is to try and match each side. In for more negative camber and out for more positive camber.

[mr2nut123]

If you want to do this properly you need a level surface and a camber gauge. Could always pay the alignment place to do it.

Otherwise you will just be using best guess and it all depends on how clean and straight your suspension components and car are.

To do the adjustment just jack your car up, put it on axle stands, and remove the wheel. Then slacken both strut bolts and get a feel for movement of the hub in/out. The best you will get without the required camber gauge is to try and match each side. In for more negative camber and out for more positive camber.

Luckily I know the guy who has the Hunter machine so it's ok I should be able to get it on the ramp and then adjust it live and see the camber move on the machine. Reckon it would be wise to get some camber adjustment bolts in advance just to be sure?

[stuMR2lee]

Wise move getting it done on the machine. I can do my own toe settings pretty accurately with my laser gauge and string but camber is a problem as my garage and drive have a slight slope.

On stock suspension, even with 30mm or so lowering, camber bolts are unlikely to be necessary to get the camber within recommended settings. Up to you though if you want to go prepared.

[2barGee]

Yeah the RCA's effectively un-lower the car in terms of suspension geometry.

Front wheels are 17x8 et35 with 215 40 17 tyres and the rears are 17x9 et38 with 10mm spacers and 235 40 17 tyres.

Its twitchy driving down straight roads. Before the alignment it felt like it was a 4 wheel steer vehicle but now its much better apart from feeling like the front end needs correcting over all the undulations in the road.....

What tyres as you running?

[Rob]

I'm running road legal semi slicks that are brand new - Federal 595rsr.

I chucked on my winter wheels, 16x7 & 7.5 with regular Sumner tyres which made it even worse.

[mr2nut123]

Wise move getting it done on the machine. I can do my own toe settings pretty accurately with my laser gauge and string but camber is a problem as my garage and drive have a slight slope.

On stock suspension, even with 30mm or so lowering, camber bolts are unlikely to be necessary to get the camber within recommended settings. Up to you though if you want to go prepared.

Cheers for all the advice, very much appreciated. Will report back!

Just another quick q. Is there an easy way to tell the difference between rev1 and rev3 suspension components? (Pics ideal for bumpy here, lol) Coilovers were removed from this car and I SUSPECT old worn out tat was put on instead.. I still believe the car feels very wobbly compared to my old rev2. When driving in a straight line, if I move the steering wheel left to right swiftly, the car feels like it's in water, almost like the rear of the car has elastic control arms if that makes any sense?

[2barGee]

I'm running road legal semi slicks that are brand new - Federal 595rsr.

I chucked on my winter wheels, 16x7 & 7.5 with regular Sumner tyres which made it even worse.

Do you have a print out of your set up, something doesnt sound right.

[stuMR2lee]

If your car still handles badly after the alignment I would suspect worn suspension components, especially struts, and maybe springs, ball joints, & bushes.

Suspension often gets neglected due to the cost of replacing these things. No alignment will help if the suspension is old and tired.

Rev 1's had adjustable caster arms and shorter rear track arms/different subfame. http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=130712

[mr2nut123]

If your car still handles badly after the alignment I would suspect worn suspension components, especially struts, and maybe springs, ball joints, & bushes.

Suspension often gets neglected due to the cost of replacing these things. No alignment will help if the suspension is old and tired.

Rev 1's had adjustable caster arms and shorter rear track arms/different subfame. http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=130712

Cheers Stu. Getting it on a ramp this weekend to inspect when changing the oil so I'll take a look then

[Rob]

I don't have a print out as it was done by hand unfortunately.

As for suspension components, all bushed upgraded to poly type, all ball joints are less than 2 years old and max. 500 miles, coilovers have been bench tested and confirmed as fine.

I think I need to get it somewhere that can do a laser setup with print......

[2barGee]

I don't have a print out as it was done by hand unfortunately.

As for suspension components, all bushed upgraded to poly type, all ball joints are less than 2 years old and max. 500 miles, coilovers have been bench tested and confirmed as fine.

I think I need to get it somewhere that can do a laser setup with print......

100% something sounds like its off mate