Discussion and technical advice the SW20 MR2. 3S-GTE, 3S-GE, 3S-FE etc
Anything and everything to do with maintenance, modifications and electrical is in here for the Mk2.
The workshop Im using was asking me whether I knew if there was enough clearance between surface to be skimmed and the valves?
Does anyone know whether the head can be skimmed without taking the valves out or not?
Cheers!
IMR2T wrote:The workshop Im using was asking me whether I knew if there was enough clearance between surface to be skimmed and the valves?
Does anyone know whether the head can be skimmed without taking the valves out or not?
Cheers!
Yes there is.
Have you checked the head needs to be skimmed as we have never found one yet that needed that done.
Skimming is going the raise the compression ratio, the last thing you want on a Turbo engine.
Designer for turbo set ups on F1 cars, and Nitrous Oxide Systems of the USA in the 80s
Yes you can leave the valves in place for a head skim. You do need to remove the cams though.
The head on the MR2 is quite solid and unlikely to warp. As bob says put a flat face and a feeler gauge on it to assure it is out of spec.
For the sake of a few hours you'd be as well taking them out changing the stem seals and relapping the valves though. It would be a real waste not to do it.
Draven wrote:Yes you can leave the valves in place for a head skim. You do need to remove the cams though.
The head on the MR2 is quite solid and unlikely to warp. As bob says put a flat face and a feeler gauge on it to assure it is out of spec.
Sorted. Ill just leave it as I know bob knows his shizzle
sheppy wrote:For the sake of a few hours you'd be as well taking them out changing the stem seals and relapping the valves though. It would be a real waste not to do it.
Cheers Sheppy, Ive never had a head off but Im up for doing this.
I would have done the stem seals, (even though Im not looking forward to taking off the retainers, looks SO fiddly) but I wouldnt have thought to lap the valves, thought it was only new valves that need that.
They may not need it man but while the head is off and accessible you may as well change the seals and give the valves a quick lap just to absolutely ensure they are perfect. Mine was starting to get smokey at 100k miles. It's a job you could do yourself, just takes a bit of time and patience
Im with sheppy on this.
Never know what swarf etc can get in there and damage seats when its back running when heads at machine shop. Yeah ok it gets washed out once done but like he says, its not too difficult to do. Small screwdriver with a dab of grease is great for putting collets back in.