[Mk2] [Turbo] Rev 2 Turbo from overboosting to ruined

[Modena-360]

My Rev 2 Turbo Ferrari replica went into the garage with a few issues and although some are solved, I have a whole new range of issues.

All my handling woes have been resolved (transformed) by fitting BC Racing Coilovers and new tyres all round. It's gone from being the worst handling cars I've ever owned to one of the best.

There is an engine warning light that shows an electrical fault is now on, and the engine is showing error code 52 which I believe is knock sensor. I was told not to worry about it.

It was overboosting which from reading posts on this forum, it pointed to a stuck or faulty wastegate actuator. The garage disagreed and removed the manual boost controller/bleed valve.

Now the car has gone from being very rapid, but in extreme cases suffering fuel cut out due to overboosting. Now it is almost undriveable with any boost.

The turbo makes lots of noise, I can hear it spool up, but nothing is getting to the engine. It drives like an NA car with a slipping clutch and a leaking exhaust if you can picture that? All noise and no go. If I lift off, and let the dump valve let some pressure off, I can get a bit of forward momentum (like a slipping clutch biting) but all in all it's awful.

I still think I need a wastegate actuator replaced and I would probably prefer a proper digital boost controller.

Is there anyone in the Midlands, or near Bromsgrove B60 that would look at it?

Cheers, Steve

[markstevieandmads]

Isnt there someone like Nathan at MrTwos up that way?

[SonicSW20]

MrTwo's in Willenhall

[Adam86]

www.mrtwos.co.uk

[Chumbaside]

Sounds like your diagnosis of actuator issues is probably correct.

If I'm thinking about this the right way, your bleed valve / MBC was negating the actuator issue by diverting boost away form the actuator (as they do). By removing it, your actuator is getting hit by pressurised air right from the off and by the sounds of it bypassing it all straight down the exhaust pipe!

I'd plumb the MBC back in and see if that puts you back to where you started. If it does, you've narrowed down issue to the actuator.

I think that makes sense!

-Mark

[2mad]

Boost creep is very common with a free flow exhaust .. faulty knock sensor could put the car into safe mode (safe map) with decreased performance .

Fix that first then we can tackle boost issues bud

[Chumbaside]

Boost creep is very common with a free flow exhaust .. faulty knock sensor could put the car into safe mode (safe map) with decreased performance .

Fix that first then we can tackle boost issues bud

Good shout!

Just resetting the ECU may clear this error too, definitely worth a try before you start replacing stuff.

I've not had boost creep issues with my Rev6 downpipe and Legalis R, and that's been on for nearly 10 years now but I've always used a good EBC to control boost

[2mad]

The cars power (stock) is based on knock sensor readings .. its so important thats working ok .


Are you overboosting on stock actuator pressure .. by how much whats peek boost .

[2mad]

Boost creep is very common with a free flow exhaust .. faulty knock sensor could put the car into safe mode (safe map) with decreased performance .

Fix that first then we can tackle boost issues bud

Good shout!

Just resetting the ECU may clear this error too, definitely worth a try before you start replacing stuff.

I've not had boost creep issues with my Rev6 downpipe and Legalis R, and that's been on for nearly 10 years now but I've always used a good EBC to control boost

Ebay downpipes are a big problem for overboosting , the wastegate caches on the downpipe (needs grinding to cure) .. fix the knock sensor first then we will sort boost

[Modena-360]

Boost creep is very common with a free flow exhaust .. faulty knock sensor could put the car into safe mode (safe map) with decreased performance .

Fix that first then we can tackle boost issues bud

Sorry to be a noob, but what is boost creep and how do I tell if I have it?

[2mad]

If your running stock actuator pressure your boost gauge should show 5-7psi on boost, any more than that is creep.

When running boost control if you set it to eg. 14psi , the car comes on boost it holds at 14 for a bit but then boost starts to clime , thats boost creep.


Pretty much all my turbos crept a little bit, 1 or 2 psi over my target boost.

Its when things are wildly out its a big problem

[Modena-360]

If your running stock actuator pressure your boost gauge should show 5-7psi on boost, any more than that is creep.

When running boost control if you set it to eg. 14psi , the car comes on boost it holds at 14 for a bit but then boost starts to clime , thats boost creep.


Pretty much all my turbos crept a little bit, 1 or 2 psi over my target boost.

Its when things are wildly out its a big problem

Ah thanks for that. I don't know what boost pressure it is running. It just has the standard gauge. I want to fit an aftermarket gauge, but I want it to look stock or factory.

[2mad]

aftermarket gauge for the stock location can be done, I dont know how though not a mod i did, sorry

pics..




43mm gauge ...


Get something like a cheep ebay mechanical auto garage gauge for £15 so you can setup boost for now .. dont go messing with boost without one.

[2mad]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-52mm-Car-Au ... 51bed2feeb


£7.28 Delivered

[2mad]

This is what i had in my toolbox for tuning cars .. bang on accurate tested against my £200 electronic blitz gauge and hks £75 gauge ...


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOGAUGE-Aut ... 4193a9de7c

[Modena-360]

So I took the car back to the garage that did the work today and they have given me the great news that there is a leak from the Exhaust manifold and the issues have nothing to do with them removing the manual boost controller.

I have booked the car in at www.mrtwos.co.uk as recommended.

I have a couple of questions:

If the exhaust manifold has to come off, is there any work that should be done at the same time?

Any idea of a very rough finger in the air price what this is likely to be for fixing the manifold leak, replacing the wastegate Actuator and supplying and fitting a manual boost controller?

After buying the car, and then spending £2k on new Coilover suspension and tyres I will soon be bankrupt at this rate!

[2mad]

So I took the car back to the garage that did the work today and they have given me the great news that there is a leak from the Exhaust manifold and the issues have nothing to do with them removing the manual boost controller.

I have booked the car in at www.mrtwos.co.uk as recommended.

I have a couple of questions:

If the exhaust manifold has to come off, is there any work that should be done at the same time?

Any idea of a very rough finger in the air price what this is likely to be for fixing the manifold leak, replacing the wastegate Actuator and supplying and fitting a manual boost controller?

After buying the car, and then spending £2k on new Coilover suspension and tyres I will soon be bankrupt at this rate!

No need to replace the atuator unless its faulty .. and no boost controller till you buy a boost gauge .. as for going bankrupt, lets just say i know that feeling


Fensport fit a awesome actuator to there turbos , very strong preload .. i got one off ebay for £70 .. could see if they will sell you one if needed .. there forge are no good 1.0bar spring pressure

[jon]

Has the knock sensor error code been resolved?

If the ECU is showing error 52 then it will be retarding the ignition timing, this results in a much higher exhaust gas temperature. Great for generating boost (hence over boosting) but not good for producing power and not good in general for the engine.

[bobhatton]

If the exhaust manifold has to come off, is there any work that should be done at the same time?

Any idea of a very rough finger in the air price what this is likely to be for fixing the manifold leak, replacing the wastegate Actuator and supplying and fitting a manual boost controller?

As Jon has said, replace the knock sensor first, but not an Ebay one, get one from Toyota.
The wastgate will be ok, forget about a boost controller and get the engine running as Toyota designed it first to make sure you do not have other problems like damaged pistons.
You do need the top grade of fuel also, and your timing should be set to 8 deg btdc

[Modena-360]

Just found my car is fitted with a DASTEK UNI-CHIP

In ithe bundle of paperwork I have a rolling road print out for 271bhp and reference to the supply and fitting of the uni-chip.

Does anyone know what this is, what it does and if removing the manual boost controller will be part of the issues my car is having?

It looks like during the dyno set up there are lots of references to NOT touching the bleed valve which I guess is the Manual boost controller.